Long Time Coming - Rock Maxx

[monsterz]

So I started this build about 5 years ago. At the time, TwistedCreations was The Man on this page, and I got a lot of my ideas from him, particularly how to build the solid axles. Between moving twice and having two kids, the project just sat until a couple months ago, when I decided to make it a priority to finish it off.

Anyway, my main goals were to keep the COG low, put as much weight forward as possible (hence the need for the carrier bearing in the rear d-shaft), use big steering servos with 4WS and do it all within a tube frame.




A few specs:

• 55 turn lathe with GD600
• 9 cells (6 cell stick with a 3 cell saddle pack)
• Tekin Rebel 2 with Castle Creations BEC
• Stock radio modded for rear steer
• Stock wheels narrowed about 3/4 inch
• TS-80 servos x 2
• LST tires (somebody make some super sized stickies, please!!!)
• Locked in 1st gear, spools and unknown CVD's, but they seem very strong
• WB is about 18.5"

At this point, it's pretty much done. I would like more power and wheel speed (which is why I upped it from 6 to 9 cells), but I'm not sure how to accomplish that with just one motor. I also will probably go to a 3S LiPo at some point. Anyway, on to the pics.

The front axle:


The rear axle:


Front suspension:


Rear suspension:


Motor compartment:



Side profile:


And of course, a flex shot:

[Tonelock]

Well the traxxas has those ones from the summit that are pretty dam sticky and there freakin huge

[SilverRidge]

nice tubing work does the front steering links function well like this? is there any differential turning radius left to right due to the design?

[monsterz]

Originally Posted by SilverRidge

nice tubing work does the front steering links function well like this? is there any differential turning radius left to right due to the design?

Thanks, it was my first shot at brazing. It really got easy after I got into it.

Yes, it turns a bit sharper to the right than too the left. A better, more conventional design could be used with a smaller servo. But with this big thing, and the desire to mount it low and in a protected location, it's all I could come up with.

[APESHAT]

Nice Truck Monsterz- I Like it alot! 4 the steering though- try dropping down to end or the servo arm + reset it perpindicular to the servo w/tires straight ahead (1st pic), of course you may have to nip 5+mm off long link to drivers side. That should equal the throw of the servo enough to trim it afterwards. . .Crawl it

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by monsterz

... about 5 years ago... TwistedCreations was The Man on this page...

Oh jeez, I can't let him see this!

[da94broncodude]

nice work! definitely different, brazing is a PITA when your learning..

[monsterz]

Originally Posted by APESHAT

Nice Truck Monsterz- I Like it alot! 4 the steering though- try dropping down to end or the servo arm + reset it perpindicular to the servo w/tires straight ahead (1st pic), of course you may have to nip 5+mm off long link to drivers side. That should equal the throw of the servo enough to trim it afterwards. . .Crawl it

Yea, that would help. Then I could lessen the drop between the drag link and tie rod to keep the clearance. It would be easier with Revo knuckles, but until I have issues with my stock knuckles and CVD's, I'll keep running with these parts.

[monsterz]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Oh jeez, I can't let him see this!

Funny. I mostly just lurked back then, but I saved a lot of his chassis pictures that really helped put everything together.

[TwistedCreations]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Oh jeez, I can't let him see this!

Yeah my head don't need to get any bigger huh Cory

Thanks for the props though monsterz, mucho appreciato

I still have alot of parts laying around and thought about making another one. Yours looks pretty good. You already mentioned it, but after you do have problems and break CVD's, I highly suggest switching over to revo axles and knuckles. Doing that, you would need to rework your axles some though, as the Revo steering knuckles are spaced further than the stockers.

As for your speed, what is your gearing? If I recall right, I ran the stock GD600 pinion(18t i think) on the motor and then ran a 12t pinion off the GD600 to a 72 spur gear. But I ran a 27t motor also..If you switch to a 35t lathe, the reduction unit will keep your torque and give you more wheelspeed

another trick is to build the 2 main axle tubes from 5/16" solid, then do your braces with 3/16" brakeline..I did this with the green tuber and it worked really well.

[monsterz]

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

As for your speed, what is your gearing? If I recall right, I ran the stock GD600 pinion(18t i think) on the motor and then ran a 12t pinion off the GD600 to a 72 spur gear. But I ran a 27t motor also..If you switch to a 35t lathe, the reduction unit will keep your torque and give you more wheelspeed

Good to see you're still around!

My gearing is exactly what you state above. I've been considering the 35t motor, because I can't really add any more cells, and changing the gearing with the 55t motor either up or down is going to hurt overall performance. I've also considered lowering the gearing more, and going to an even higher turn motor.