TQi Locker-switch upgrade/ write-up

[high plains drifter]

I didn't plan to post a thread but figured for anyone needing or wanting to replace the TQi 3-way locker switch, that some of this info might be relevant and/ or appreciated.

Recently I broke the original switch due to a couple of reasons... 1) I was being dumb... and 2) the switch isn't dumb-proof. Simply put... If you snag the switch hard enough on something, it's likely to break and do so in a way that leaves it impossible to consistently or reliably lock/ unlock via the tx.

Fact is that sometimes until you break something, you never realize how crappy it truly is lol. Anyway... If you happen to break the TQi locker switch: 1) Don't fret... and 2) Don't replace it with that awful original switch. Why? Well because the toggle portion although metal, is hollow and quite fragile at the base. Also the shape isn't the most streamlined so it's fairly vulnerable. Another thing.. Ever notice how easily the toggle engages/ disengages? Obviously that lack of resistance can easily allow the switch to accidentally shift. Lastly... you can feel how loose the toggle is between clicks which ultimately just feels cheap.

So what could be better than spending only a few bucks and getting rid of all those potentially negative issues? That's where the upgraded replacement comes in. The original switch is made by a company called Taiway. It's an SP-3 T1 on/off/on ( 2A 250vac/ 5A 125vac). But when I searched for it, I instead found a Carling SP-3 T1. All specs are the same so it looked perfect for this application. Got mine through a place here in the US for $4.01 + shipping.

In case anyone wants to take a look at this quick and easy job, here it is! You'll need:

Small-ish Phillips head screwdriver
Soldering iron and accessories
8mm open or closed end wrench
Small needle nose pliers- recommended

Here you can see the original switch... flimsy, cumbersome, etc. This tx is for my Bronco and is okay for now. The switch that broke was the one on my Defender's tx. First step is to use your fingers to unscrew the black plastic piece ( looks like a bushing or spacer) that goes over top of the 8mm toggle switch nut. Then remove the 8mm nut and finally remove the 5 long black Phillip's head screws that hold the two halves of the radio together...




You can see here how thin this toggle switch brass material really is. VERY prone to breaking...




Be very careful pulling the two halves of the radio apart... especially where the telemetry/ LWM door is located as there is a delicate pin-connector right there. Once you have the radio apart, the next few steps are self-explanatory. Remove the 3 silver Phillips-head screws that hold the two PCB boards in place ( two on the large board/ one on the small board). Now you should be able to access the switch unit.

With the 8mm nut removed from the outside, the toggle housing should be able to be pushed inside the plastic radio housing and then up and out so that you can more easily work on replacing it. Here is the derelict culprit... pulled out and ready for de-soldering. Be mindful of the orientation of the wires and be careful with the PCB solder joints while working with the switch...




Bad switch de-soldered and ready for the trash...




The three bare wires awaiting the new switch...




New Carling switch at the ready. The flat and lock washers will not be used but I will use the new 8mm nut. Notice that the lugs are a tiny bit longer than the original switch lugs. This is not an issue as there is plenty of clearance inside the radio. Also the lugs are solid ( no holes) but not a problem as long as you create clean strong solder joints.






Soldering in the new switch. Don't take too much time getting everything heated up. Instead try to move quickly and only use as much solder as necessary. A set of adjustable alligator-type clamps come in very handy for jobs like this... It's like having four hands.




Done and done! I recommend starting at one end and moving down so that the finished joints are not getting in the way of where you're working ( if that makes sense)...




Now all you need to do is to check and make sure that all connections are secure and then carefully put it all back together just the way that it came apart. I used one 8mm nut on the inside in order to shorten the overall height of the switch just a bit.




Finished and oh what a difference! This toggle has a total length of 1.25mm from the top of the nut to the tip of the switch. That length was 2.20mm with the original switch. Also, although it is a thinner/ lower profile shape, this toggle is solid steel and mush stronger than the hollow aluminum. Engagement is precise and there is no flimsiness in between shifts. Additionally, this toggle also takes a touch more force to shift... another very good thing.






So hopefully this may prove helpful to someone wanting or needing to replace this crappy original TQi radio switch. Doesn't take long, it's not difficult, and the results are quite "engaging".

[aiwaloki]

Nice job..

[OSRC]

Very nice write-up!