The Telluride Project

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by OSRC

So while I was percolating on the Slash, a bunch of HPI parts fell out of the sky and this happened...


Not sure if I want to move forward or not. This would be next level IS crawler compared to the Slash. Hmm....

Looks interesting. What is it, a home brew chassis? I like it!

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[Gula]

Waiting to see where this goes. New thread?

[OSRC]

HPI Parts, formerly an MT2SS. Locked diffs w/front OD.

Maybe. Went to put a bend in the chassis and snapped it. 45 minutes of cutting and filing down the drain. Whoops. If I do something with it, I'll start a new thread.

[BJoe]

Must say I am thrilled to finally see another Telluride project on here!
Been messing around with mine since 2015 and just updated the motor and pinion in it. I have been thinking of going back to the stock front diff, but keeping the stock slipper in it for now, how do you think that might work vs running the center diff like you did?

Here’s a shot of mine from a 2021.

[OSRC]

The center diff with 2m oil wasn't as bad as I expected, it only diffed out when it was nearly vertical. Mine was leaking terribly, one of the screw holes stripped out and I couldn't cinch it together properly. Did ok in testing, but by the time I got the to trail, it wasn't nearly as stiff. I rebuilt it with an aluminum case and it's holding together now, but didn't re-install it.

For crawling around, I found a locked front, center, and open rear worked the best for me. Locked rear tended to push it off line on serious climbs - letting it slip a bit helped calm it down. I think if you have a bit of speed, open front and rear would do fine for trailing around and occasional crawling and take a lot of stress off the driveshafts. The silicone earplugs worked great for me - still allow a little slip, but not much. If you crammed them (or 2M oil) in the diffs, it would do pretty good I would think.

I'm thinking about using silicone in one of my TRX4 Sports and doing some experimenting. Not sure if it will have the same effects or not - I think its more of a function of a rear motor IS chassis than anything else.

[Gula]

Originally Posted by OSRC

HPI Parts, formerly an MT2SS. Locked diffs w/front OD.

Maybe. Went to put a bend in the chassis and snapped it. 45 minutes of cutting and filing down the drain. Whoops. If I do something with it, I'll start a new thread.

Dang, did you bend against the grain, and or didn't anneal it?

[OSRC]

Bent it the way I normally do, just went too far too fast I guess.

Bought a piece of steel instead, easier bending and better weight down low. I'll get to it eventually.

[MAC FAB]

Originally Posted by OSRC

HPI Parts, formerly an MT2SS. Locked diffs w/front OD.

Maybe. Went to put a bend in the chassis and snapped it. 45 minutes of cutting and filing down the drain. Whoops. If I do something with it, I'll start a new thread.

I’m guessing 6061 T6, hard material. 8 times the metal thickness for the bend radius is the formula for forming that stuff, so if you do it again, remember that. Find some .090 5052 and make yourself another chassis pan, plenty stiff yet you can bend it however you did on the first try. Jig saw makes short order on notching, just wear ear plugs along with your eye PPE.

[BJoe]

Originally Posted by OSRC

The center diff with 2m oil wasn't as bad as I expected, it only diffed out when it was nearly vertical. Mine was leaking terribly, one of the screw holes stripped out and I couldn't cinch it together properly. Did ok in testing, but by the time I got the to trail, it wasn't nearly as stiff. I rebuilt it with an aluminum case and it's holding together now, but didn't re-install it.

For crawling around, I found a locked front, center, and open rear worked the best for me. Locked rear tended to push it off line on serious climbs - letting it slip a bit helped calm it down. I think if you have a bit of speed, open front and rear would do fine for trailing around and occasional crawling and take a lot of stress off the driveshafts. The silicone earplugs worked great for me - still allow a little slip, but not much. If you crammed them (or 2M oil) in the diffs, it would do pretty good I would think.

I'm thinking about using silicone in one of my TRX4 Sports and doing some experimenting. Not sure if it will have the same effects or not - I think its more of a function of a rear motor IS chassis than anything else.

Thanks, I’ll keep this in mind for the future then! BTW, I found the Your video of this rig YT last night and was impressed, plus slightly jealous of your crawling spot too

[MaX-D]

I'm on the fence with the front diff of my Telly. Should I lock the front diff with JB Weld and turn the outputs 90° before it sets to cut down on the chatter, or should I just use a Hot Racing spool?

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[OSRC]

Uo to you. I'm not overly impressed with the HR spool, it's just a pin as a locker. It hasn't given me any trouble yet though.

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by OSRC

Uo to you. I'm not overly impressed with the HR spool, it's just a pin as a locker. It hasn't given me any trouble yet though.

If I do end up using the HR locker, where do the white, plastic bushings go? On the inside?

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[BJoe]

I never noticed the bushings in the ones I bought, have to take a look at them when I get home. Still have the silly putty I put in my Telluride from 2015.

[MSB]

I've been running the HR spools f/r for 9 years now w/o trouble. I only notice the "chatter" on pavement.

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by MSB

I've been running the HR spools f/r for 9 years now w/o trouble. I only notice the "chatter" on pavement.

This is good to know. I've got one spool that I'll throw in the front and put silicone ear plugs in the rear. I've never used JB Weld before, and I'm afraid I'll screw up the mixture of the two parts.

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[MaX-D]

I figured out what the white bushings are for.

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[MaX-D]

Any updates on the Slash project?

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[OSRC]

No sir. Been busy with some other trucks. I'll get to it for sure over the summer.

[OSRC]

Finally got some paint on this ugly duck... should have painted it yellow. Strangely, I'm coming around to it. It's definitely function over form. Swapped over to some 1" wheels and fake news TSL's which are just narrow enough to work.


Body was cut at the bottom to follow the lines on the chassis, it fits it almost perfectly.


Needs something in the back, I just don't know what yet. I'll chew on it for a while, something will come up.

[350TacoZilla]

Looks cool. I just saw your comment about the slop in driveshaft, I noticed that with the metal one in my brushless slash but my buddies now has the plastic one and it seems to be way more snug fitting on ends. I'm not sure if it would load and twist up weird but it definitely has less slop. On the back I actually just ran the little retainer for awhile since the tires would hit anything before the diff anyhow, I wanted to try to mod the front skid plate to fit rear but don't have a spare to try it on.