05-25-2007, 05:29 PM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
| maxx tuber project
well i did alot of research and i decided to do a maxx crawler instead of buying a t or emaxx i decided to buy the parts seperate from different places like ebay my lhs and tower i have been getting parts in the mail everyday for this project here are a few pics of the parts and a pic of a very rough mock up of the chassis i just want ur guys opinion and if im heading in the right direction thanks Mike
Last edited by Mikekx65; 05-25-2007 at 06:29 PM. |
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05-25-2007, 06:31 PM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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UPDATE:i decided on what battery to use there 2 li-ion batterys from cell phones then i rigged an old charger to charge them i know it will take quite long to charge them and have a short runtime but they only weigh lless than an ounce so i will use them in comps and stuff where i would need to cut weight but i might not use them but its all trial and error
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05-25-2007, 07:49 PM | #3 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: ...
Posts: 515
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looks like a good idea! comming along. i use these: click me! on my maxxx, and they are awesome and cheap! i ran 2 of them in my stock e-maxx and i got about 15min running it wide open 90% of the time . i have a maxx carawler, and since there soo big, realy try to save as much as possible. |
05-25-2007, 08:28 PM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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i might have to try those
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05-28-2007, 02:02 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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update: i just traded a mamba 25 esc for 4 new maximizer beadlocks and a new integy 65t motor do you thnk that will be enough power? or will i have to do a gear reduction?
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05-28-2007, 03:02 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: sunman
Posts: 193
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yea a 65t is plenty of torque no need for gear reduction. what kind of esc you got.
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05-28-2007, 07:10 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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im goint to try my novak xrs if that doesnt work ill sell that and save up and get a mamba maxx i have another question should i make a tuber or do a torshion maxx im leaning towards the torshon till i got more $$ Last edited by Mikekx65; 05-28-2007 at 07:15 PM. |
05-28-2007, 07:40 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: sunman
Posts: 193
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xrs is fine for that 75t, and tubers are the shizniz man, if you got the money or skill to get one, unlike me i'm cheap and no skill at this moment so i went and bought my chassis for $3.50 at Do it Best. lol |
05-28-2007, 08:09 PM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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lol i want to build a tuber but it all depends on the $ flo i might just do a torshon for a temp chassis
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05-30-2007, 07:28 AM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Norway
Posts: 72
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Looking forward for some pics.
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05-30-2007, 10:22 PM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: In a tree top with my chainsaw!!
Posts: 476
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I think a tuber that looks like your pic would be awesome. good luck, man. |
05-31-2007, 07:32 AM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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well guys its going to be a tuber my bro bought me 25 feet of 3/16 brake line for my b-day
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05-31-2007, 01:29 PM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
| Update!!!!
ok well it was time to lock the diffs but i didnt want to wait to buy spools and i didnt want to use jb-weld or anything so i improvised i took the spider gears inside the diff apart and i used the output gears and cut the actual gear off so now i was left with a little piece of rod that has the special end to attach to the drive shafts i then took another piece of rod and made the whole thing 2" long welded it together sanded it down and i now have a cheap effective way to lock the diffs now for the pics
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06-02-2007, 02:09 AM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS
Posts: 202
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the only problem with grinding off the out put gear is now you have nothing for the JB weld to hold on to. the point of the JB weld was that it will lock the gears in the diff, JB weld will not hold just the shaft with all of the pressure you will be putting on it.
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06-02-2007, 08:17 AM | #15 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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what are you talking about the whole point to making the locker was not to use jb weld idk what u mean it will not hold its all one piece now i will break axles before my welds break maybe you dont understand what i did but it holds alot better than jbweld | |
06-02-2007, 09:56 AM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS
Posts: 202
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Ok, your axles will be connected to the shaft that you welded (good job BTW), the shaft goes through the diff housing and ring gear. The spider and the output gears are what the JB weld would bond to to lock the diff. What you have will not hold. The shaft will just spin when the JB weld lets go. |
06-02-2007, 10:37 AM | #17 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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i will be using no jb weld ill get a pic later of the inside the shaft i mad is welded to the ring gear so its all one piece
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06-02-2007, 03:08 PM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: On the trail
Posts: 668
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looks men now a question... how many ways you can lock a maxx diff? what about the spyder metod? thanks |
06-02-2007, 03:26 PM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
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the best way to lock the diffs is to just buy the spools but many people just load up the spyder fgears with jb weld and that work too with my way i do it once and its good for a long time because with the jb weld method it can come lose over time and you have to redo it
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06-02-2007, 03:48 PM | #20 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: On the trail
Posts: 668
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i think i will first disasemble my emaxx diff and see what can i do... and if i dont know what to do i will order one spool and put it in the rear. thanks |
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