E-maxx Quality??

[Nova]

Hey, I was just thinkin... if i got big tires for an E-maxx, lowered the ratio, and lock the rear diff, that would put a lot if stress on the axles eh?? is it ok to lock the rear diff, get paddle tires (goin to Brookings coast in oregon the weekend after the 4th of july) and beefy tires like the swampers for mud and hills and lower the ratio and be ok with stock axles and stuff?? or should I keep it stock and put pretty good tires on it and call it good?? Cuz i dont want to spend money fixin stuff...

all im askin is if the E maxx has a good drive train for such a load?? i know what ill do... not even lower the ratio

[ScaleCrawlersINC]

Ok, This is the 3rd post in this section. You just answered your own question. So, I guess I am not understanding the meaning of this post??

[Nova]

3 different Questions...

My buddy has a T-maxx and he breaks everytime he goes out.

If I lock the rear Differential, lower the Gearing ratio, and increase the Tire size and traction, then there is a tremendous amount of torque coming from the Differetial to the axles...

Im wondering if the E-maxxes are built strong enough so that if i come up a hill and hit a root and get a little air born and dont release the throutle quick enough, then there is a great amount of tire spin and all that energy is then transfered to the ground when it connects, thats a WHOLE LOT of energy put onto the Spur Gear, Differential and the Axles...

I JUST want to know what extremes i can do before I break from pulling a wheely on the asphalt (Metephore)

If you have Slicks on in the mud, there is no traction and littler Friction.
It you have Swamper tires in the mud, there is Greater traction and more friction.
Wheres the stored energy go and how much of it can be there untill something gives??

[Nova]

Now i under stand ya... I didnt a sec ago but if i dont lower the ratio, then thats more stress on spur gears and other gears

[TwistedCreations]

you keep asking the same questions over and over and then answering them yourself.

loosen the slipper clutch some. if you lock only the rear, you will be breaking more.

if your worried about breaking so much, you are in the wrong hobby

as you build your truck do the following:
bigger tires
lower gearing
lock BOTH diffs
stronger steering servo
Revo shafts as driveshafts
MIP CVD's as axles
Either lock out your factory a-arms or make custom axles
4-link it
lock the tranny into 1st gear
get a lathe motor or a MM motor with a GD600.

with that setup, you should be able to go anywhere you want and not have to full throttle it so much and then break.

if you learn to drive, you would be able to lay off the throttle. the skinny pedal is what breaks alot of stuff.

[ScaleCrawlersINC]

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

you keep asking the same questions over and over and then answering them yourself.

loosen the slipper clutch some. if you lock only the rear, you will be breaking more.

if your worried about breaking so much, you are in the wrong hobby

as you build your truck do the following:
bigger tires
lower gearing
lock BOTH diffs
stronger steering servo
Revo shafts as driveshafts
MIP CVD's as axles
Either lock out your factory a-arms or make custom axles
4-link it
lock the tranny into 1st gear
get a lathe motor or a MM motor with a GD600.

with that setup, you should be able to go anywhere you want and not have to full throttle it so much and then break.

if you learn to drive, you would be able to lay off the throttle. the skinny pedal is what breaks alot of stuff.

Aint that the truth

[toyofast]

Nova - Where do you live? I'm assuming G.P./Medford area, right? You've talked about Zuki's which is the S.Oregon area more popular rig, Trail Tough and all... I used to live down there...


Just go pick up a used Maxx, old(narrow) or 2.5 E-Maxx and run it with locked diffs for a bit. Learn to drive it. After a while you'll start tweaking it when you see things that need to be changed so you can get up the bigger and bigger rocks.

[Nova]

Originally Posted by toyofast

Nova - Where do you live? I'm assuming G.P./Medford area, right? You've talked about Zuki's which is the S.Oregon area more popular rig, Trail Tough and all... I used to live down there...


Just go pick up a used Maxx, old(narrow) or 2.5 E-Maxx and run it with locked diffs for a bit. Learn to drive it. After a while you'll start tweaking it when you see things that need to be changed so you can get up the bigger and bigger rocks.

Yo toyofast, This is the Kid that went to Haz-Fest in the "We-Dig" RED Suzuki samurai that broke the front right berfield and left rear axe in Matts Trench... i recondnize your name from Haz-fest.com forums... i hear there are no more public events but only invite...

Thanks for the replies guys... Ill start with locked diffs, get used to the ride and order some Swamp Dawgs and Maximizer Locks... Yet again ive answered my own question

[Nova]

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

loosen the slipper clutch some.


as you build your truck do the following:
stronger steering servo
Revo shafts as driveshafts
MIP CVD's as axles
Either lock out your factory a-arms or make custom axles
4-link it

Ok.... How do i make a 4 link for this and Lock the A-Arms???

What are MIP CVD axles??

can i get this stuff on Ebay??

Im only looking to spend up to $350 on everything, is it possible?? (Plus the E-maxx itself)

found the Axles, is this what im looking for??

[Nova]

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

stronger steering servo

Is this what im looking for??

[Eclipse]

no, thats just the stock servo, u need something with more power and torque.

[Nova]

Originally Posted by Eclipse

no, thats just the stock servo, u need something with more power and torque.

Thanks

[toyofast]

Ahh.. Haz-Fest. I know it well. Not only have I been to many of them but I do have to take credit for Matt's addiction to wheelin'.... I'm the creator of Backwoods4wd which is the main group to start up Haz-Fest, Backwoods4wd is probably one of the largest Southren Oregon based off-road groups.

Stock Traxxas stuff sucks, especially servos.

Those MIP CVD's you linked to is only part of them, you'll need the rest of the axles to make them work. Buy new ones as you have no idea what type of stresses have been placed upon used axles...just my opinion.

For steering you'll want good servos. Hitec has their HRS-5995TG which packs about 333oz.in @ 6.0v, not to shabby for a 1/10 scale servo. Vinny runs one in his TLT/Bulu rig and it's a nice servo. They can be had for about $100 or so.

Figure that you'll be spending at least(might be off):
$150-200 for two servos
$110 for a SR
$65-$75 for a radio(TQ3 from TheCrawlerStore.com)
$20 Integy lathe motor
$15 GD-600(if needed), my maxx doesn't.
$36-40 High end Battery pack, custom built from Cheapbatterypacks.com
$80-90 Good quality charger

In the end you'll have a $700-$1000 "toy" that can go more places than your Zuki


Sell your dumb car stereo crap to afford a new toy..... hell, I have two speakers in my Toyota and just am/fm radio(a good $50 system)

[Eclipse]

150 - 200 for stupid servos, more like 50 each for nice ones.

[toyofast]

Originally Posted by Eclipse

150 - 200 for stupid servos, more like 50 each for nice ones.

I doubt they will last.

In my crawling experiences(might be limited ) but the better servos you buy, the better off you'll be. I have purchased servos that people say are great, they last about 3 runs then start to show their weakness.

You show me these $50 servos that will last a full year of crawling. ORCRC gets together every Sunday and crawls for 3-6 hours straight, will those $50 servos last that long? Probably not.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by toyofast

In the end you'll have a $700-$1000 "toy"

I think you just killed his buzz right there.

The Hi-Tec 645s are decent for ~$40. So 2 or 3 of those or one of the aforementioned.
If the one 5995 lasts longer than 2 or 3 of the 645s, I'll switch.

Do they?

[toyofast]

Originally Posted by EeePee

I think you just killed his buzz right there.

Better now then after he spends $400 and finds that he is only halfway done

Originally Posted by EeePee

The Hi-Tec 645s are decent for ~$40. So 2 or 3 of those or one of the aforementioned.
If the one 5995 lasts longer than 2 or 3 of the 645s, I'll switch.

Do they?

I've toasted a couple 645's and most recently a 5645MG.... all of them on my TLT rig, go figure.

From what I've seen of the HRS-5995TG it is a killer servo. If my wallet could handle buying 3-4 of them I'd have them on all my crawlers. All I know is that Vinny's TLT based rig turns like a red hot knife going through hot butter... His rig can be seen in the spot light in this video(http://gerrish.net/waterfall2.wmv).

Others in the ORCRC group who have purchased the $100 servos have had nothing but praise of them. Servo breakage and problems are becoming less frequent.

[TwistedCreations]

a knife through hot butter :? if the butter was hot, would there not be any butter?

[toyofast]

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

a knife through hot butter :? if the butter was hot, would there not be any butter?

I'm not a Butteroligist so I can't explain the exact relationship between the hot and cold butter issues to it's fullest.....

[WRMorrison]

Originally Posted by toyofast

I'm not a Butteroligist so I can't explain the exact relationship between the hot and cold butter issues to it's fullest.....

First laugh of the day, thanks

I would think that to sell booty, one must be a butterologist

But for the thread relevant stuff, I've got two HSC-5998TG's 250 oz.in. (currently on my TXT - keep switching them from truck to truck because I can't afford more of 'em ), and I wouldn't own anything less ...if I can help it, that is.