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Thread: T-Maxx Revo Gearing

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Old 02-16-2006, 10:00 AM   #1
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Lightbulb T-Maxx Revo Gearing

I KNOW - ELECTRIC CRAWLING IS THE ONLY THING POSSIBLE...

I am not looking for an argumentle discussion about the Electric vs Nitro Issue... Just Project Fabrication...

With That Said...

I have come up with an idea, I believe should work with a Nitro Crawler (which would be for Crawling Only - same as an Electric Crawler - SLOW and STEADY, not for bashing / racing)

I can fabricate an relocated mount for the engine with no problem, and also fabricate a gear reduction Case for the T-Maxx Modified 14t Bell & 72t Spur assembly. I can even add as many reduction gears as I want to get it as low as I need to keep the Engine RPM's up to have the Bell Clutch locked SOLID during all movement.

I found an imformative site on calculation the wheel drive Speed based on each gear size, calculating from the engine to the wheels...

I am going to do some more reading and some disassembling to get information on what the TOTAL Reduction (Bell Clutch Lock-up RPM - The Revo Differential Ratio - Transmission Output Ratio - T-Maxx Reduction Gear Output Ratio and how many sets of reduction gears I will need to match the Electric Crawl Speed at the wheels...

I know it is possible to get the power and speed where it needs to be without the Bell Clutch slipping the hole time while going slow.

As others here have said, A Real 1:1 Crawler works, So can A nitro, and as with a 1:1, you just need the proper gearing and cooling system set up. All which is possible. Although I have not seen this created / built yet (that I can find information on)...

I own 2 Revos, and one will be left stock, the other I will be modifing for this project...

I First will need to get the gearing calculated and built and tested on the stock Revo Chasis...

Second, I will build a chassis and suspension system to keep the CG down and give the proper wheel base to match an Electric Crawler.

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Last edited by bandi; 02-16-2006 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:42 AM   #2
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sure sounds like it would work but you would be going through clutchs like crazy....
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:52 AM   #3
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You said no arguing, so I won't.

I hope your plan works.
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Old 02-16-2006, 12:37 PM   #4
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Yeah I can't reply either but you'll be burning clutches up, overheating the motor, and getting kicked out of public places due to noise.

But good luck with that
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Old 02-16-2006, 12:51 PM   #5
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Geislerj3...
The Bell clutch (in theary) should be just fine, no different then the trailing I do now with off and on the throttle... the gearing will allow the engine to spin at higher RPM's thus keeping the bell clutch locked when moving... and once I get the slipper set up just right... But it all will come down to whel I get the calculations done...

AdamF & Twisted...
I do appreciate it, Thank You...

yamahaman...
No matter what, Electric will always be easyier, no clutch to deal with... but I know with the right setup, nitro/gas can do decent crawling as in a real-life crawler with a torque converter... In real-life, you need to get the gearing set so your torque converter locks-up when crawling, otherwise you won't be going anywhere... Its just that it has not been done to a scaler yet... but I am willing to give it my best... I had to have my real truck setup with the right gears and right torque converter so i did not burn my trans up... well, i need to do the same with the scaler...

(I do have an Electric Tamiya Hummer that I use for trailing)

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Old 02-16-2006, 02:02 PM   #6
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It's not fair comparing a 2 stroke high revving nitro burning motor to a 4 stroke low end torque 1:1 gasoline truck motor. The powerband of a 2 stroke nitro motor is waaaaaay higher than a 4 stroke motor. And the power band while getting to that high rpm is too quick, you just wont have smooth enough power transfer to have good control. 2 strokes dont have any low end power, you have to rev them up way high to get any power. Now, get a 4 stroke engine for your crawler and you might have better luck.

ooops, im sorry for arguing, but it was burning me up not to say that.


But I really do want to see what you come up with, and see how smooth the power output from a 2 stroke nitro can be.

Last edited by AdamF; 02-16-2006 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 02-16-2006, 03:03 PM   #7
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LOL... AdamF... No Problem... I did not think it would hold, but I was hoping tho...


Noise... Well... the 2.5r has to be one of the quietest Nitros I have heard, but I don't plan on using it at a shopping mall...


I have to do my calculations... but as long as I get the gearing low enough... it will (theoretically) do the same... to use arbitrary numbers...


Gas 1:1 Truck - Torque Lockup = 800 rpm / Stock Gearing = Tire Speed 50 rpm

Nitro RC - Clutch Engagement = 2000 rpm / Gear Reduction = Tire Speed 50 rpm


But based on how much reduction I do... is how much wheel rpm's I Have. The Idea is to get the Tire Speed as close as possible to real 1:1 trruck speed...


I Know the Nitro will be Reving up there, and that it will have a heating issue, but that is nothing that can not be delt with... I have already looked into the 2.5r Marine Head with the Cooling Fin head modified on top with water pump and radiator & fan...


So anyway, I don't mean to say they are the exact same, they are far from it, but I believe I can get similar results at the wheels...

Last edited by bandi; 02-16-2006 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 02-16-2006, 03:21 PM   #8
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I'll be interested in seeing your implementation. I've always wondered how someone would get across the heating issue. As is those heads usually rely on the wind to dissipate the heat from the fins. That will be interesting to see how you take care of that for a vehicle that basically stands still. I suppose you could mount some 40mm case fans on the head or something like that.

If I can bring up one point, stop messing with the fonts and colors, it looks like crap and is hard to read. You can get your point across without 5 different formatting options for 10 sentences.
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Old 02-16-2006, 05:13 PM   #9
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Do you think your defeating the purpose though with having to add a radiator,fan, etc.etc...

Seems like it would be adding more weight than needed?

Last edited by TwistedCreations; 02-16-2006 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 02-16-2006, 07:28 PM   #10
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Twisted...

those are things I have looked into already in case their is a temperture issue... I have a venom fail safe so I can monitor the temps... I will run with just the cooling head first... if there is a big problem with my driving style and temps, I will add a fan and some ductwork to add some cooling... then I will go on from there till the problem is solved... I am not going to do more than what is needed... but i am trying to think of any problems I may have ahead of time and ways to correct them...

Oh yeahh... LOL... No Colors =)
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Old 02-16-2006, 10:33 PM   #11
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Bandi,
When you said "Gas 1:1 Truck - Torque Lockup = 800 rpm / Stock Gearing = Tire Speed 50 rpm

Nitro RC - Clutch Engagement = 2000 rpm / Gear Reduction = Tire Speed 50 rpm"
Where you being serious about the torque lockup on the 1:1 or did you just pull that number out of your butt for example? Most converters have a stall almost twice that? Hell most motors idle around 800rpms. I would guess average converter lock up is between 2600rpms and 3500rpms. I know that lock up is about 3200rpms in my 98 F150.

And on the overheating issue. It will unless you run it rich. If you want to see how bad it will be do your calculations and figure how much rpm you will need to get the wheel speed you need. Then set your truck on a block so the tires don't touch the ground and run your truck at that rpm for 5 minutes or so.
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Old 02-17-2006, 09:47 AM   #12
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mazdaparts...

To qoute... "to use arbitrary numbers..."
So yes, I did "just pull that number out of" my "butt for example"...

Like i said before, I am not guarenteeing anything... again to qoute... "
it will (theoretically) do the same..." In Theory... Things should be able to be worked out... I am giveing No Guarenties here... but I am giving it a try...

And... I do thank all the Possitive feedback...
and even more...
The good / imformitive negative feedback which helps me identify issues I may have not thought of...

Thank You all... I appreciate your time on this... It good not to see the common "your an idiot" type of kiddy feedback that does absolutly nothing for anyone...

Last edited by bandi; 02-17-2006 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 02-17-2006, 01:08 PM   #13
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I've seen a water pump system on a 4 stroke T-Maxx so I know it's possible it can be done to fix the heating issue. It makes sense that you could reduce the gears enough to find your rpm range. If you got the time, go for it. What's that saying? If you want things to be easy, build a Clod.
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Old 02-19-2006, 09:25 PM   #14
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You don't want to argue so I won't, I just hope you have lot's of money for clutch parts.
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:40 PM   #15
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I am building a 1/5 scale lifted 4x4 truck with a BIG nitro engine and T MAXX running gear with Steel solid axles.I was thinking of a small electric fan to help with cooling.This will not be a CRAWLER but an all around rig.

I am curious though on these radiater ideas for water cooling.I looked at the marine heads but couldnt figure the details for a water system..Can i hear your thoughts?

I think if all this works out,Nitro crawlers will grow.I like engines period.There is no excitement in the electric motor to me so its gas all the way for me....
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Old 04-23-2006, 11:14 AM   #16
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TTT i am still interested in the water cooling ideas Thanks.
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