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Old 03-02-2006, 08:51 AM   #1
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Default Updates/Changes To My Maxx... (PICS)

Finished my rearsteer last night. I added another CS80 on the back and made the links for it. I also remade my lower links after breaking my second one in only two outings. I made them straight with no bends and used M6 harware instead of M4. I also made some new lower shock mounts and angled the shocks somemore. Like it is now it has the potential for crazy flex, but it is being limited by the DS's hitting the chasis, to about 60-70* of artic. I thought about spacers on the crossmember to easily fix that but I almost like it being limited, as long as I don't start going through DS's like crazy.

The WB stretched back out a little to 18" and the COG lowered to about 4.25". I like the lower look and like the increase in stability




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Old 03-02-2006, 10:14 AM   #2
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I've thought about linking my knuckles to the servo the same way you did. I'm curious to know if you've seen any negative results?
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:32 AM   #3
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I like it better better because it seems to put less stress on the whole steering set up in general. But I will say this, it takes more time/tinkering to get it right than a traditional draglink/tierod set up IMO...
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RcBro
I've thought about linking my knuckles to the servo the same way you did. I'm curious to know if you've seen any negative results?
Makes for a pretty bad Ackerman angle, but for an RC crawler that isn't a huge issue. One tire will be turning further than the other due to the angles of the steering links as the servo arm rotates.....and the fact that one link won't move as far cuz it isn't mounted as far out on the servo arm.
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:10 AM   #5
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thanks I never looked at it that way. I guess I'll do the long link :neutral:
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:39 AM   #6
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Yeah, that is the only main problem i see with that setup also. The steering links are not the same, so one side would probably turn tighter than the other. I have to mess with my steering links forever to get both tires turning the same on both sides. BUt it's a RC truck that I beat on rocks, so I am not going to get that picky with it Plus he has ALOT bigger servo to shove the tires over.



Truck is looking good though Ran. What weight oil are you running in the shocks?
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:27 PM   #7
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Thanks for compliments.

I still need to tweak the steering a little abut it's not that bad right now. Like everyone has said, it's an RC truck so I'm not going to get that picky about it.


Twisted, right now I'm still running whatever comes in the stock Maxx shocks. Now that I've switched to stiffer springs though, I might look into some lighterweight oil.
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:18 PM   #8
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oh ok, I was wondering if ya switched to anything stiffer. I never had good luck with that 10wt crap in the shocks. I always ran 80,90 or 100wt in mine, but yet I ran the stock springs also. The thicker the oil, the more is slows down the compression and stuff
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Old 03-02-2006, 02:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
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and stuff
a.k.a. rebound

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Old 03-02-2006, 03:52 PM   #10
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what rod ends are you using ?
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Old 03-02-2006, 03:59 PM   #11
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Standerd Traxxis Maxx ends...
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:44 AM   #12
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back to the steering thing please.

if you centered the servo horn to the center of your diff, so that the links would be exactly the same on both sides, would this cure the ackerman problem? or are you still gonna have some goofy angles?

nice job RAN. that is deffinately an interesting and original overall design. looks like a nice and low COG
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Old 03-03-2006, 08:42 AM   #13
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Xtremeraptor- that sounds like it would work but to dial it in perfectly you're talking about some pretty precise measuring.



Got a new lid to try out last night from a buddy. It's a used Titan that's not cut as much. What do you think, like the Titan or stock Maxx body better??

I know there's one thing a few of you will like more about this body



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Click the image to open in full size.





I want to try and find a really long body to try and cover up those upper shock mounts . Anyone know where you can get huge bodies from, like 1:6+???

I wouldn't mind doing some type of Ford double cab thing, or big SUV like Exursion/Caddy. I just need something long and then I was thinking I'd notch the backside just enough for the shocks. JFYI, I measured last nght and the front tower to back tower measures 15.5" on the nose, so if anyone knows of any bodies/places to get big bodies, let me know...
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Old 03-03-2006, 09:59 AM   #14
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the titan body looks alot better on there.
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Old 03-05-2006, 12:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
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the titan body looks alot better on there.
I agree
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:02 PM   #16
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the hobby shop I go to has allot of older bodies (piles and piles of bodies to be precise) and they have an old style f150 (1980's) with an extended bed, cant remember the manufactur but I do remember its a pulling truck body
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Old 03-11-2006, 09:56 AM   #17
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I guess you really like to hack up the bodies . Looks cool
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:15 PM   #18
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If you want a longer body, get the Proline bodies made for the TNX, MGT. Or search on towerhobbies for bodies. They will give you length, width, height, and in most cases wheelbase for most bodies. I have seen some that are 20 inches long.
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