| |||||||
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #1 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| Well i had this over in the general discussion and that thread kinda got outta hand. So i decided to make one over here, probably where it belongs anyway anyway- the chassis is based from the " Formula Toyota" and i got the design of the straight axle idea from Jay Kopycinski. i liked his idea better for ground clearance so that's about it, now on to the pics and flame away ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
| | |
| Sponsored Links | |
| | #2 |
| It's a setup! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: The Crawler State
Posts: 12,905
| Looks good, steering is a bitch on these type of axles isn't it |
| | |
| | #3 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| just sent you a PM jason..as far as the steering, yes it is a bitch..im trying to keep everything out of each others way and it keeps getting harder |
| | |
| | #4 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 620
| that thing is starting to look super nice probaly one of the best emaxx crawlers ive seen no joke. |
| | |
| | #5 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| ahh, your just saying that Skyjacker cause there really isn't too many emaxx crawlers thanks for the compliments guys. i am gonna start building the front axle 2day and hopefully quit screwing around with this project and get it rolling after talking with JK( mudcow) i may need to redo my top links and make them longer. it changes my pinion angle a little bit and i was not really wanting that. i don't see it hurting anything, but i guess it's just the idea that i know it changes. after i get it rolling and see how it does on the 1st test run, i will then figure out if i need to change them or not. as for it twisting up right now, it does great with no binding at all. so enough rambling and time to get back outside and work on it |
| | |
| | #6 |
| Dirt Addict ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stumblin' thru the parking lot of an invisible 7-Eleven
Posts: 1,052
| Coming along nicely! Jay |
| | |
| | #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Louisiana
Posts: 328
| What is the clearance under the diffs going to be? Is it anything compareable to Kongs on a solid axle? I could imagine something similar to your axles ( but a little wider to make up for being so tall) with Kongs (or narrowed Kongs). That would be one bad RC, but im not sure if even qualifies as an RC. Maybe a small Quad |
| | |
| | #8 | |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| Quote:
the clearance under the diffs is just a little over 4" with the BFT tires on (7" tall tire) you kinda lost me on the tall part :? are you saying that mine is too tall and needs to be wider also i could put Kongs on mine with no problem and it would only be about 13" or so tall, but i like the BFT's since they don't weigh as much as the kongs and don't put all the added stress on | |
| | |
| | #9 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 620
| i would say it alot wider then a clod. looking at the drive shafts or did you cut them down. i cant get over how sick that cage looks. maby ill make one for the gecko maxx lol |
| | |
| | #10 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Santa Cruz California
Posts: 127
| Your truck seems to be coming along pretty well, everything looks awesome. I'd for sure say it should be wider then clod awles. |
| | |
| | #11 | |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| Quote:
but my axles haven't been cut down at all. they kinda have me concerned if they will hold up like that, but Jay said he never had a problem with his. so if i break one,im gonna double up the axles( tube inside of each other) since they don't move up and down anymore | |
| | |
| | #12 | |
| TCS Team Manager ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: on a Big Rock
Posts: 6,254
| Quote:
GOOD WORK | |
| | |
| | #13 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Louisiana
Posts: 328
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #14 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| the way it will sit with the 7" tall BFTs' on, it ill only be about 2" taller than a stock Emaxx.i dont see how that makes it an " already huge truck". the kongs are only what-another 1.5" tall.so that would only raise it another 3/4".. i don't think it would be that big.. but as i always say " go big or GO HOME!" |
| | |
| | #15 |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: New Iberia, Louisiana
Posts: 10
| nice truck man, you did a very clean job on the axles. In the construction of them did you weld or braze it together. Also what kind of metal is it made out of and did you just tighten the pillow balls in place and join the rod to the ball end or did you go all the way to the knuckle with the rod. one more thing, did you think about doing the one motor modification so you could lose some more weight i'm working on a prototype and i change to one motor and made a bracket to run the spur gear from the other side. this allowed me to lower the motor which is pretty heavy about a 1-1/2". from the pics it looks like you could do this easliy. I'm going to take some pictures and post it soon. |
| | |
| | #16 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| thanks the axles are made out of 1/4" solid rod and the 2 pieces around the diffs are just washers for a 1" bolt. as for the pillow balls,i drilled the ends of the 1/4" rods and tapped them with a 5mm tap. then put a 5mm nut onto the pillow ball and screwed them in. i use the nut to keep the pillow ball tight. yes it will be running one motor and battery. yes i can lower the trans and motor, but i added that lower part of the chassis so the trans would be covered. i just have to make the whole bottom skidplate now |
| | |
| | #17 |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: New Iberia, Louisiana
Posts: 10
| I seen the sizes rod that you used but i was wondering if it is stainless or aluminum also what are you considering making your skid plate out of, because i made a full underbelly skid plate out of 1/8" teflon and it worked great i would suggest this material because it is very slick and very easy to work with. |
| | |
| | #18 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| the only thing AL. on it is the steering links and 4-link. the rest is just basic metal from home depot over in the " hardware" section. i didn't need to get into stainless and all that since it won't see the rain and by the time it ever rusts out, i will have built another one skidplate- im not sure yet. i was gonna go with AL. but that stuff likes to get tore up on rocks pretty good and sometimes will hang ya up after a rock digs in. i may just use some 18ga. or 16ga. metal strip and just bolt it on. haven't thought about it much yet |
| | |
| | #19 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 620
| cant wait to get me welder set up for alum. |
| | |
| | #20 |
| Newbie Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 14
| hey toyotafour whellin would u be interested in maing one for money? if so about how much for the frame and axles? i have all the electronics and differintial, tryed making y own set-up but it didn't work so lemme know about if u could make one and howmuch it might be |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |