TRX4 Mods

[Scrap]

Looks good. Opens up a whole lot of wheel options...

Thanks.

[CR4NK]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I apologize, I misspoke. I got mine be for $27 shipped off eBay.

No worries dude, I figured you may have just been ballparking it or something. I was gonna get one anyway but woulda been nice to score it for a bit cheaper. Would like to hear how it works out for you and the trx.

[SCREAMER]

I just got my Traxxas Link in the mail and got it installed and setup right away. IMHO, this thing is a must have for this truck. I was able to set my steering sub trim so I could zero out the knob on the receiver, set my throttle expo (very important), and set my steering endpoints correcting an oversteer issue I was having out of the box. Low speed throttle control is now very much improved and crawling performance should be much better now too. All the jerkiness is gone and this truck feels very dialed in now. Training mode is pretty useful for even better low speed control for super technical crawling and is very easy to switch back and forth depending on the terrain and trail. I also was able to perform a firmware update for the receiver itself which I'm sure will only improve performance. I'd highly recommend this little module to everyone with the TRX because it is incredibly versatile and easy to use. It opens up a lot more tuning than I've mentioned here but definitely has all of the necessary tuning options to get your truck setup for your style and personal preferences. We're all waiting for aftermarket and factory accessories and upgrades to become available anyway so might as well knock out this handy little mod in the meantime.

[imanerd2]

Flipping the front bumper mount in the frame rails and flipping the bumper around as well does raise it up a half inch. Does require trimming the body in the grille area as well as the bolt in grille. Will do the rear tomorrow I think...it will raise it over and inch in the rear.

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[colbynobo]

I'm waiting to see some more examples using E-Maxx length bodies after watching the one video of the Silverado with the utility bed. I tried running the Proline Commanche and the Ram 1500 on an SCX10 I used to have, but I could never get the bodies to sit a little lower for my tastes. It would probably be the same case for the TRX-4, but I'd love to be proven wrong.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by imanerd2

Flipping the front bumper mount in the frame rails and flipping the bumper around as well does raise it up a half inch. Does require trimming the body in the grille area as well as the bolt in grille. Will do the rear tomorrow I think...it will raise it over and inch in the rear.

Looks great, did you notch the body?

[imanerd2]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Looks great, did you notch the body?

Yes. I can grab a pic of that tomorrow morning. Left it at my shop so I would finish putting my bomber back together tonight instead of pushing it away and making another project.

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[eyeopenher]

i also seen that the front mount will work in the back... so once they become available, using the front mount in the rear will raise the bumper only a half inch (or so)... which is a good middle ground from how far the offset is on the rear bumper mount... like you said, it will raise it about an inch... i tried it with the ascender blazer body and it put the bumper mid tail gate... that was no bueno...

[eyeopenher]

or you can use a stock axial mount in the front and use the trx-4 front mount in the rear... options are always good...

[SCREAMER]

Here's another twist on the free body mods for better clearance. I decided to check the front and rear bumper beams to see if they had another adjustment hole further in and sure enough, they do. I was planning to drill another hole but they are already there so all you have to do in the front is remove the faux winch (looks better anyway I think) and slide the front bumper in the rest of the way. No cutting, sits flush to the body, better approach angle.

The rear is just as easy but takes a little more time due to the rear body brace and those bayonets that slide into the rear bumper. Good news is both the rear bumper and the body brace are adjustable and both have one pair of extra holes further in so slide those in together and done. There is one small issue and that is remounting the body screws to keep that braced strength. For some unknown reason I had exactly 5 of these little plastic spacers in my hardware box that, I believe, came from my Axial trucks. These are the little plastic bushings that are in between the shock uppers and the shock towers. They were the perfect thickness to remount the body to the rear brace without pulling it in or pushing out. You can see the body and bumper now meet together flush. Looks better and better departure angle.

I probably way over explained this and it's not an earth shattering improvement but it's there, it's easy, it's free, and every little bit helps until we have some quality steel options for full replacement.

I've seen a couple aftermarket companies step up already with replacements but IMHO, they look awful and don't fit the body at all. Hopefully Wertymade, PigSnot Chassis, or someone else comes up with something strong and functional, that's fits like it was designed for the D110 body, and soon. This plastic won't last long. We need steel!

[CR4NK]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Here's another twist on the free body mods for better clearance. I decided to check the front and rear bumper beams to see if they had another adjustment hole further in and sure enough, they do. I was planning to drill another hole but they are already there so all you have to do in the front is remove the faux winch (looks better anyway I think) and slide the front bumper in the rest of the way. No cutting, sits flush to the body, better approach angle.



The rear is just as easy but takes a little more time due to the rear body brace and those bayonets that slide into the rear bumper. Good news is both the rear bumper and the body brace are adjustable and both have one pair of extra holes further in so slide those in together and done. There is one small issue and that is remounting the body screws to keep that braced strength. For some unknown reason I had exactly 5 of these little plastic spacers in my hardware box that, I believe, came from my Axial trucks. These are the little plastic bushings that are in between the shock uppers and the shock towers. They were the perfect thickness to remount the body to the rear brace without pulling it in or pushing out. You can see the body and bumper now meet together flush. Looks better and better departure angle.



I probably way over explained this and it's not an earth shattering improvement but it's there, it's easy, it's free, and every little bit helps until we have some quality steel options for full replacement.



I've seen a couple aftermarket companies step up already with replacements but IMHO, they look awful and don't fit the body at all. Hopefully Wertymade, PigSnot Chassis, or someone else comes up with something strong and functional, that's fits like it was designed for the D110 body, and soon. This plastic won't last long. We need steel!

Did this mod this morning, exactly like screamer suggested and it worked out nicely.

I also installed the traxxas link module which I highly recommend. I know you can manually change most settings with the transmitter but It's a much nicer and easier interface to work with. For the cost, I don't know why traxxas doesn't just include it with the truck.

[eyeopenher]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I just got my Traxxas Link in the mail and got it installed and setup right away. IMHO, this thing is a must have for this truck. I was able to set my steering sub trim so I could zero out the knob on the receiver, set my throttle expo (very important), and set my steering endpoints correcting an oversteer issue I was having out of the box. Low speed throttle control is now very much improved and crawling performance should be much better now too. All the jerkiness is gone and this truck feels very dialed in now. Training mode is pretty useful for even better low speed control for super technical crawling and is very easy to switch back and forth depending on the terrain and trail. I also was able to perform a firmware update for the receiver itself which I'm sure will only improve performance. I'd highly recommend this little module to everyone with the TRX because it is incredibly versatile and easy to use. It opens up a lot more tuning than I've mentioned here but definitely has all of the necessary tuning options to get your truck setup for your style and personal preferences. We're all waiting for aftermarket and factory accessories and upgrades to become available anyway so might as well knock out this handy little mod in the meantime.

I run the traxxas TQI in a few vehicles. My sons bomber runs it and he has the temp gauge set up. Easy to see what his motor is running while he's flinging dirt and making panties drop. Lol he's 10. I should stop now. lol but seriously. I have 2 Bluetooth modules. And 5 rigs running traxxas tx's. love the ease of them. So worth the $30

[BobTeagle]

Originally Posted by ubernewb

dead weight removed
proline 2.2 epic beadlocks with flat iron tires
ssd rock shield bumpers f/r

Is that the same ssd bumper for the scx10ii?

[ubernewb]

yup, scx10ii bumpers. rear fit in just like stock, but front took a little more work. nothing crazy tho

[CR4NK]

Question for everyone... how do you suppose these gas cans were done on this trx-4 (video below)?I looked all over for gas can mounts that would fit or mount where the stock gas cans screw into and I couldnt seem to find anything. I know, removal of all these scale parts reduces weight but I kinda like the scale items and would like to keep them, but want to make them better. Any help is appreciated.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TtQ8y1QH-4s

After further review it looks like the stock mount and two aftermarket cans in there. I'm sure I'll finger it out.

[ubernewb]

more mods today

savox 1230sg and a tekin 35t, plus a castle bec to help with juice. that's a w.i.p. at the moment (servos are geeking out when it's connected) should have it sorted tomorrow tho.



~300mm wheelbase achieved with 102mm revo pushrods, and 10mm cut from both sides of the driveshaft.





also swapped out my basher's 2.2's for some rc4wd swampers on ssd d-window beadlocks, as seen in last pic

[imanerd2]

Looks good! I also pushed it in to the next hole in the mount to suck it in further like was suggested above. I got impatient and did the rear as well with the rear mount.....should have just bought another front mount. I ended up having to butcher the body a bit. The rear bumper is the biggest hang up on this truck stopping most of the lines.

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[ubernewb]

want to keep the wheel wells even tho i'm changing bodies, and figured the easiest way was to attach the wells to the truck itself. drilled thru the overlapping bit and secured them with 3mm buttonheads and nylocks. now they're good for whatever body goes on ;)



rears will take a bit more work since they no longer line up properly after shrinking wheelbase, but i'll be sure to post my solution to that as well

[ubernewb]

don't mind the extremely rough cut on the body, it's just to get clearances and such.





also cut 25mm off the rear frame rails to bring the bumper in to the body (using the front bumper mount to get it at the right level) . still need to drill the holes to attach it, but forgot my drill at work.



need to order another front bumper mount for the front. tried to use the rear, but not a fan of how much farther it sticks out. might try flipping it around again, but i'm calling it a night.

[malickie]

Hmmm, I think I may use my 10.2 Kit body from the looks of that. Still clear and have yet to do anything with it.