Brass portal covers(knuckles) front and rear option

[geauxktm,]

I am running the yeah racing brass covers up front and I'm wanting to use my $95 amazon credit to buy a set for the rear. I'm now seeing the cover plus knuckle combos in brass to where I'd swap the ones up front to rear and run the combo because of be adding all that weight to the right spot.

I used to avoid adding weight to the rear but this weight goes to an area where I see it being very beneficial. Is this correct thinking?

Right now I think I want the brass cover plus brass knuckle option to add even more weight up front and I'll throw the brass covers I'm running up front to the rear.

I'd like someone running brass front and rear to share what their opinion about performance. I'm no longer in a spot where I can buy all the items needed to keep my trucks performing better and better. Heck I can't even keep them all going. This is why I'm hoping to hear what I think that extra weight in the right spot will give noticeable performance gains on the nasty stuff I ride

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[solo1]

Are you planning to stay with the stock body and all its components? Are you trying to stop it from flipping front to back or side to side? Are you running stock wheels and tires or aftermarket and how much do they weigh? All these things and probably a few more come into play when trying to figure out how to make your truck crawl like you want.

[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by solo1

Are you planning to stay with the stock body and all its components? Are you trying to stop it from flipping front to back or side to side? Are you running stock wheels and tires or aftermarket and how much do they weigh? All these things and probably a few more come into play when trying to figure out how to make your truck crawl like you want.

No I had to ditch that body. Even after doing the truck bed mod and ditching every bit of added weight beside the inner Fender stuff it just kills performance where I drive. I could shorten it an inch and that would make a huge difference but I'm running a few different bodies and most of the time a ugly Comanche body that can't get in the way and doesn't hinder performance

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[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by solo1

Are you planning to stay with the stock body and all its components? Are you trying to stop it from flipping front to back or side to side? Are you running stock wheels and tires or aftermarket and how much do they weigh? All these things and probably a few more come into play when trying to figure out how to make your truck crawl like you want.

Sorry this response will cover every question. I swap between BFG krawlers and hyrax on VP methods and also KMC. I haven't noticed hub width playing much of a Factor. I have even run smaller 2.2 on omf like the BFG all terrains from a bomber kit and it actually did really well. I thought I was on to something and kind of still think I was in thinking a taller Tire lined up with the portals could give the craziest axle clearance and almost eliminate the portals getting hung up.

I feel mine stays decently planted and I'm aware of what situations will cause a rollover or flip which is a good thing. It did surprisingly well with the 2.2 all terrains but I don't like running that set up on a scale crawler.

Even with the brass portals up front and a heavy scaler Fab bumper it was flipping over still but I'm pushing it and it was probably close to Vertical approach. I'm pretty good at figuring out what is wrong if I do get out there and the truck is not staying on four wheels. I feel the rear portal weights could help out in many areas including keeping it from ending up on the roof and mainly traction that could be a funny thing if I'm climbing something vertical.

Hopefully that gives you a better idea of what I'm going for and that most important thing to me is performance and climbing those nasty lines that don't look climbable. If the brass portals in the rear cause it flip backwards I'll probably just throw a few weights in the front end see if that fixes it but I figure out a way to not use weights

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[geauxktm,]

I have upgraded all ectronics except small servos. Hh pp 2200kv with mamba x, high power brushless , waterproof servo. Wheels and tires of course and different bumpers but that's all

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[magic_yeti]

i'm running the team dc portal/knuckle weights on the rear (99g) and yeah racing portal covers (84g)
and codyboys knuckle weights up front. that helped a lot, the last step where gpm 9mm hex plus different spring for the rear. afterwards it took lines i never expected. but i'm a noob in crawling, still using stock, tires, foams and body. i think the rear weights are needed if runing stock body and battery mount to get cg more down in general.

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[solo1]

Well im running a 295 wb and it climbs better than stock simply because of aproch and departure angles and i dont drag the skid quite as easily the big thing about weight is you can very easily go too far. If you can weigh your front wheels then your rear you want the front heavier but you also need to keep it low and even better on chassie not wheels or axles since you have ktm in your handle i think you should know about sprung vs unsprung weight. Some brass will help just dont go nuts

[geauxktm,]

Originally Posted by solo1

Well im running a 295 wb and it climbs better than stock simply because of aproch and departure angles and i dont drag the skid quite as easily the big thing about weight is you can very easily go too far. If you can weigh your front wheels then your rear you want the front heavier but you also need to keep it low and even better on chassie not wheels or axles since you have ktm in your handle i think you should know about sprung vs unsprung weight. Some brass will help just dont go nuts

I have a 10.2 with curries, stainless links, knuckle weights and I can't run a heavy body or ill witness the weight holding it back and more throttle is needed just to keep in motion.

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Thanks for the responses and the shorter wb is something I have to try on one of my trucks. I ride on what i consider naturally scale stuff tjat are comparable to what we see bouncers competing on in youtube videos. It's never continuous rock surface. There are 5 to eight 3or 4 ft high rock obstacles in a 100 yd span that appear unclimbable until you climb them. Ground clearance is necessary. Sorry in a rush and can't get what I'm trying to say out