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Old 11-12-2017, 07:28 PM   #1
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Default Locked UP's TRX-4

Picked this up in a deal locally so it was "pre-loved" a bit.

Came with the Bronco body on it and ... I'm sorta digging it.



Front & rear Wheelbases are off a hair.
Will work on those.



The interior looks like a Deadbolt.
Needs a haircut...


Also a big vast nothingness in the back of the interior.


The front bumper hangs down really low.




Turtle shot


Naked



Swapped servo that came with it.

Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:30 PM   #2
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Immediately flipped the front bumper mount.

Not perfect but better.




Dropped front body mount one hole too.
Good enough for now.



I'm thinking 1/4" front and rear to remove form the WB will be good.



Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 11-12-2017, 08:25 PM   #3
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Not a Bomber interior - they have a driver & a co-driver.

I think you may have a cut-out section from a Deadbolt tucked in there...
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:24 PM   #4
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

It will probably be easier to just shorten the rear not much room for movement up front
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:32 PM   #5
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

You need some LURC wheels

Good choice on car, they are better than a Axial
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Old 11-13-2017, 07:48 AM   #6
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Quote:
Originally Posted by durok View Post
Not a Bomber interior - they have a driver & a co-driver.

I think you may have a cut-out section from a Deadbolt tucked in there...
You are 100% correct. Don't know what I was thinking.




For those wondering, the cage is held in with black sticky tape.
It actually is a pretty decent way to get something better than open air into it.
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Old 11-13-2017, 07:56 AM   #7
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Quote:
Originally Posted by solo1 View Post
It will probably be easier to just shorten the rear not much room for movement up front
I only need about 1/4" front and rear to get it where I want it.
That should put the rear dead center in the wheel well.

The front will still be a little bit forward in the well but it think it has to be for clearance when turning.

Rear will easier for sure.
That's just links.

Front I will relocate the shock towers and everything back 1/4".
That way it maintains the clearance between the draglink, tierod, etc.
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Old 11-13-2017, 03:05 PM   #8
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

You should think about the high-lift kit for it , when it comes out.
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:52 PM   #9
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Awesome, I've been waiting to see what you'll do with and for the TRX-4! FI steel spools would be nice for a start, please retain all three stock diff bearings, they help absorb all the driveline shock and keep the ring and pinions aligned. That body looks pretty good on there too.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:32 AM   #10
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank211 View Post
You should think about the high-lift kit for it , when it comes out.
I'm not sure I really want to go higher.
I know that will be great from some people....
I did that on the H2 SCX10 with a homebrew setup.



I actually had a 1:1 Bronco though and will be looking to make this a throwback of sorts.

Funny that the color scheme is inverted!
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Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 11-17-2017, 10:16 AM   #11
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

I like the stretched look, the front end has a lot of scrub when turning so you'll have issues with the tires hitting the body when moving it back.
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exocaged View Post
I like the stretched look, the front end has a lot of scrub when turning so you'll have issues with the tires hitting the body when moving it back.
The plan is for smaller tires.
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:18 AM   #13
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Playing with the tire size a bit to figure out exactly what I'll need to tweak.







And a few shots of things compressed a little.




Side shots for reference

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Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:20 AM   #14
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Decided to go ahead and boil the tires off starting with the spare.

The spare was factory glued and looked to be in the best shape.
It also had less glue than the others.

Trusty goodwill pots & pans...







Took a total of 20 minutes per side and it came off fairly easily.

The boiling makes the glue brittle so you can crack the tires off.
It does still require some force but no tearing, no chemical, no burning vapors... so I call it a win.
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Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:25 AM   #15
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Very slight bit of glue reside but it's easy to pick off with a thumbnail.










Up next ... the other four...

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Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 11-19-2017, 06:23 PM   #16
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

The main 4 tires were a bit more of a bitch.

Look like they had been previously removed and glued back on.
I'm guessing the PO did this when he painted them.



There was a lot more glue on them, so they required more boiling.
the 4 that were glued back on...


Compared to factory glue...



The difference is obvious on the rims as well.



Some spots I could not break off even with an hour of boiling.
Ugh.



If you look closely, you will also see the 4 that were glued again must have been putting off some sort of fumes form the glue because they have an odd white tint to them.


Closeup of the white:


Compared to stock glue job:
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Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 11-19-2017, 06:26 PM   #17
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

So....



And


leads to


And no more white:




And next time I'll tell you why I sanded the faces off the rings.
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Last edited by Locked Up; 01-11-2018 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:36 AM   #18
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

I decided to add some new rings to the wheels.

Fairly simple process that starts with sanding the original rings down to be a smooth surface.


I removed enough material to get rid of the design, but still left some of the lip.
When measured, my wheel bodies come to 25mm exactly.


I could have cut them off entirely but didn't....yet.
No particular reason.

To get the bolt pattern, I just held an original SCX10 beadlock ring in place and took my time.






You can use a LURC ring of course, I just had the SCX ring on hand for the first one and since it is already beat up a little, why not.



The bolt pattern fits really well with the TRX4 stock wheels.
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Last edited by Locked Up; 12-21-2017 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:39 AM   #19
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

You could also drill out for a bunch of screws and make these "Easy Mount" ... but I opted to use some of our M2x1 screws instead.






I think this looks killer!
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:39 AM   #20
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Default Re: Locked UP's TRX-4

Working on lots of stuff for this thing.



oops...

Last edited by Locked Up; 12-17-2017 at 09:42 AM.
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