TRX 4 Body Bashing, The cutting has begun...

[sammyha]

Here's the only picture I have of it. Contact cement is dry, sealing the back side with E6000, rubbed it on with my finger ...

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[sammyha]

Originally Posted by sammyha

So, where my body CG is now, any weight down low that I add will realize 100% gains. It doesn't have to first counter act against negative weight bias. At least not until I exceed 45 degrees, roughly.

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Last thoughts on this...Location 1 is slightly better than Location 2 if you got to have those scale goodies up there. At least put the heavier stuff in the middle.

It's a small thing, but I don't think I would have noticed this without doing the sketch...

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[sammyha]

Originally Posted by sammyha

And I'm curious. What will the gains be? Are there diminishing returns?

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Not done with this yet...

What is the lowest point you can lower the CG to? Anybody know?

Other words... when should you stop adding weight?

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[jhghah]

Your sketch is spot on man.
It really makes a huge difference for peeps to be able to visualize it, and I dont think it could have been put any better.

And your scale work has been great, isnt it fun. LOL

[sammyha]

Originally Posted by jhghah

Your sketch is spot on man.
It really makes a huge difference for peeps to be able to visualize it, and I dont think it could have been put any better.

And your scale work has been great, isnt it fun. LOL

Thanks for the feed back. The hobby does satisfy my need for creative release. I call it therapy...

Some people don't dig so deep, but for me the best vids and threads have to stimulate, at least a little.

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[sickpuppy]

Originally Posted by sammyha

Still a crazy bit of modifying on an exo cage and roof rack. Ah well...

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How do you weld this together?

[sammyha]

It's plastic, factory bolted together except where I cut and changed it. The joints that I could spin both pieces are held with a self tapping set screw.

The roof rack joints are drilled for short pieces of 1/16" wire and super glued.

Check out the earlier pics, there's some up close shots of the cuts and joints.

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[sickpuppy]

Ah, thank you very much! I didnt read all the text the first time, now I got good tips on how to do "my thing" over here..

[sammyha]

TroopThrowback you are too kind... thank you sir!

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[sammyha]

I've got the stainless steel links installed. I'm replacing the stock 324mm wheel base links with heavier ones. This set comes complete with pan hard link, steering link and tie rod.

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[sammyha]

Got out the gram scale, weighed the new links, then the stock links(shown) after changing them out to compare weight. Gained 56.3 grams, or 1.986 ounces.

Simple weight upgrade for $19.99 that gains almost two ounces. Believe it...

Bought them on EBay from Crawler Central.


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[sammyha]

They are slightly thicker. The size is nicely etched on each one. Beautiful machine work. You use the stock plastic ball link ends...

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[sammyha]

To keep things simple, I did one link at a time. There are some orientation details that are critical to full suspension travel and full steering travel without binding.

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[sammyha]

The rear upper links have a slight angle molded in both plastic ball links, the lower links are straight. Both upper plastic ball links are symmetrical and oriented to angle opposite ways, so that's fairly simple.

Shown below are the front three link and the pan hard link respectively. They are the same length but use different plastic ball links.

The front three link has the same two angled plastic ball links that are on the rear upper links, oriented to angle opposite ways too.

The pan hard link has one plastic link with an angle, but it's angled in a different direction.

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[sammyha]

Here's the pan hard link installed correctly. The single angled plastic ball link must be oriented to clear the differential when the suspension its fully compressed(note: to be able to see the link orientation, suspension is not shown fully compressed).

The truck is shown upside down here, front view. This is the left side.

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[sammyha]

The last orientations to note are for the steering link and tie rod.

There's two angled plastic ball links on the steering link, symmetrical and oriented like the upper links.

There's two angled plastic ball links on the tie rod, but angled in that different direction. This also is for clearance of the differential. The tie rod is shown rotated 90 degrees towards the camera.

This view is what it looks like from the front of the truck.

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[sammyha]

A frame shown without body or wheels looks to me like there's some progress going on.

All the upgrades can be better appreciated...

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[sammyha]

Well, I thought about it for a bit, and came up with a real world test.

Static versus dynamic side hill test...

https://youtu.be/h1hKPpCEs9I

Interestingly enough, it looks like for my TRX 4 there's about a five degree difference in the two. It holds at 40 degrees static, 35 degrees dynamic.

Of note also, there are a few shots in the video where you can see the pivot point move under the truck due to tire roll. And these are very good tires with well matched foams.

I've also thought about the approaches we make onto side hill conditions. Like coming down onto them, or up onto them. Coming down and turning onto them seem to me to be the toughest to hold.

I'll probably find a way to test that too... stay tuned, hehe

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[sammyha]

At least I now have a baseline for any more changes I make. Also, I'll do a test without the body.

How much side angle can a good comp truck hold?

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[magic_yeti]

I will test mine also that way, that's gives a really good meassure.
Good idea.

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