Looking for adjustable brass options that fit different wheel options

[BashNSlash]

So I've conceded to the fact that if I want to run the defender body and crawl, I'll have to add some front weight to my rig.

The problem is:

a) I like to swap bodies for fun - between the defender body and a Proline Jeep body.
b) I use everything from stock wheels to cheap ebay wheels to expensive wheels...

Because of this, I would need some form of weights that will fit these wheels and be able to easily add/reduce weight depending on the body I go with.

I've seen a few that were adjustable via weighted plates or disks, but I didn't know how well these worked on non-stock wheels.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

[Browneye]

The SSD, beeftubes, and yeah-racing portal covers would all work - just leave them on whatever you pick.
The SSD ones were on backorder but now back in stock - 71g each. That's what I've ordered. Nothing for the back yet.

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by Browneye

The SSD, beeftubes, and yeah-racing portal covers would all work - just leave them on whatever you pick.
The SSD ones were on backorder but now back in stock - 71g each. That's what I've ordered. Nothing for the back yet.

Neither look weight adjustable (they are a fixed weight).

I was thinking more along the lines of something like this: https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TRXF21HA;c=1164

They allow between 72g and 161g of weight simply by adding/removing additional brass plates, but I don't know if they'll work with all wheels.

[Browneye]

I guess I'm just not getting why you think you need to change the amount of weight. Oh well, carry on.

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by Browneye

I guess I'm just not getting why you think you need to change the amount of weight.

The Defender body is like 800g+ with a huge bias towards the rear - other lexan bodies are under 300g with very little weight on the back end.

If I want to make the truck more performance-oriented, I'd want more weight added to the front when using the Defender body... but if I keep that weight heavy on the front and use the Jeep body, I'll have too much weight on the front end and the thing will roll over during steep descents.

I guess my hope was to be able to easily drop/add weight when moving from one body to the next or as my chassis configuration changes.

I hope that makes more sense

[JDM74]

Then just add weight to the back of the jeep body down low so it matches the defender body and run constant weight on the chassis. That way all you have to swap is bodies.

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by JDM74

Then just add weight to the back of the jeep body down low

To the actual lexan body?

[tkvtec]

I have the Hot Racing portal covers you referenced and if you run into issues with wheels with the outer weights, there are inner weights in the Ultimate kit at 47g each that are pretty easy on and off. I bought one Ultimate kit and one set of outer portal covers alone to be able to tune with weight front and rear. If the 21g outer weights don't fit with the wheels then you're out of luck, but I have them working with SSD beadlocks

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by tkvtec

I have the Hot Racing portal covers you referenced and if you run into issues with wheels with the outer weights, there are inner weights in the Ultimate kit at 42g each that are pretty easy on and off. I bought one Ultimate kit and one set of outer portal covers alone to be able to tune with weight front and rear. If the 21g outer weights don't fit with the wheels then you're out of luck, but I have them working with SSD beadlocks

Thank you for sharing that!

[tkvtec]

Originally Posted by BashNSlash

Thank you for sharing that!

Also, if you haven't made your decision yet...
here is a shot without any additional weights on it that should show the clearance to the inside of the wheel. The only wheels that might interfere would have large inner beadlock rings


Here is a shot with the inner weights installed:

[BashNSlash]

Thanks for posting that, tkvtec! I blew my RC budget this month, so I have to wait until May before I start loading up on stuff again ;) Still undecided, but this really helps.

[tkvtec]

Originally Posted by BashNSlash

Thanks for posting that, tkvtec! I blew my RC budget this month, so I have to wait until May before I start loading up on stuff again ;) Still undecided, but this really helps.

I know the feeling.... I think I blew my R/C budget for the year on this build!

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by tkvtec

I know the feeling.... I think I blew my R/C budget for the year on this build!

I keep telling my wife that it's an investment - I can get back what I've spent if I decide to sell everything (spoiler: I don't plan to sell anything ).

My decisions are a little more difficult because my son is also into RC, and I almost always have to duplicate everything I do to my trucks so he can share the experience.

[WHITE-TRASH]

No need to adjust the weight at all. Build it to perform with the better (lighter) body and realize that the defender is just a big heavy bread box that makes the rig suck.

I won't own anything that doesn't perform very well and knuckle weight is a huge part of that equation. This is my toyzuki V3. I just changed the portal covers last night from MFR brass to some amazon chinesium.



108 grams per vs 28 grams. They fit in all of my wheel options.

[OSRC]

I run SSD knuckle weights on all three of my trx4's. Defender, Bronco, and Sport. Helps in all situations. I think you'd really have to go overboard on brass before it starts making that much of a difference between bodies.

[BashNSlash]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

No need to adjust the weight at all. Build it to perform with the better (lighter) body and realize that the defender is just a big heavy bread box that makes the rig suck.

I have a light body that I use if I want the absolute best performance - however, I love my defender body and can almost master the same climbs as my lighter body - but I really need to control the front weight on some really steep climbs, so I think brass weights will help.

I don't think I'll ever get it to my SCX10 ii's weight ratio, but I'd like to get it "good enough" not to really worry about the body I go with.

Originally Posted by OSRC

I think you'd really have to go overboard on brass before it starts making that much of a difference between bodies.

I think you might be right. I weighed all my rigs - with/without the battery, with/without the body, front/center/rear weight, and adding a little extra weight still doesn't swing it too far either way.

But I do realize that I can't just add a little weight as it won't make any difference - I'm looking at at least 300g in the front.