Finally got to go crawling.

[Blaze0303]

So I built this 2 weeks ago...Then immediately dropped all the brushed parts I was going to use and went all out.

TRX-4 Sport Kit
Castle Copperhead 10
Holmes Puller Pro 2700kv
Amazon 20kg servo (working surprisingly well)
SSD Wheels
Pro-Line Krawler G8 Tires
Yeah Racing Metal Bumper (flipped the mount for a bit more clearance)

So the first drive went great! I high sided once and rolled twice, but overall I think it was really good. I had a blast and have a R/C addiction. Next comp is in 3 weeks and I plan on entering!

Picture Time!




Much higher then it looks, this is easily 8ft high.



Crawling above my head

[Zukiiholic]

Looks Great.
Before ya go to the next Comp, add some front Brass Portals.
My TRX4 is now my Fav Crawler.

[Blaze0303]

Originally Posted by Zukiiholic

Looks Great.
Before ya go to the next Comp, add some front Brass Portals.
My TRX4 is now my Fav Crawler.

I appreciate it, I take it they make a big difference?

[indybama]

Most definantly, it puts weight down low to keep u planted. My trx4 axles have the brass outer portal covers n it helps alot. She climbs up n over almost anything

[MOguy]

If you are going to comp weight is your enemy, it lets gravity kick you ass.

The lighter the better. Unless you rules count points get rid of everything you can. You do need more weight up front and you do need over and underdrive.

There is not a TRX body that is good for comping, ALL of them are too heavy. My comp bodies are about 4 oz. I use a hardbody in C1 that does weigh more, were I comp they do use SORRCA rules for C1 and count points.

This is my C3 "TRX". It is just over 7lbs which is on the heavy side.



[IMG][/IMG]

[Blaze0303]

Really appreciated, so portal covers and less weight up top. Is the lower cg battery tray worth running? I’m already running a lightweight shorty pack.

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by Blaze0303

Really appreciated, so portal covers and less weight up top. Is the lower cg battery tray worth running? I’m already running a lightweight shorty pack.

Lots of option, what are the rules for the class you are competing in? Not really right or wrong answers just options and trade offs.

I run my receiver on a a chunk of my battery box that is just big enough to hold it. I run my a small 1500 battery up front. I have about 4 oz in each wheel and a brass axle on servo mount but no other weight up front. I run 24% OD/UD. Mine weighs about 7 1/4lbs.

[Benp]

Originally Posted by MOguy

Lots of option, what are the rules for the class you are competing in? Not really right or wrong answers just options and trade offs.

I run my receiver on a a chunk of my battery box that is just big enough to hold it. I run my a small 1500 battery up front. I have about 4 oz in each wheel and a brass axle on servo mount but no other weight up front. I run 24% OD/UD. Mine weighs about 7 1/4lbs.

MOguy,

Do you have a picture how you’re battery is mounted up front?

I run the same size packs and would love to ditch the battery box

Thanks

ETA - I’m interested in the axle on servo mount. What are the benefits of it? Are you able to get tighter turning, better articulation, etc?

Thanks

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by Benp

MOguy,

Do you have a picture how you’re battery is mounted up front?

I run the same size packs and would love to ditch the battery box

Thanks

ETA - I’m interested in the axle on servo mount. What are the benefits of it? Are you able to get tighter turning, better articulation, etc?

Thanks

I just Velcro the battery to the front stand off (cross piece) on the top of the front tower and I use a ziptie across the bottom of the tower. No actual battery mount.

The Servo mount the picture above is a Tweakin it was 3D printed and quickly broke. I called him and he would send me another and never did. I now use a JEC brass one, it is a good mount.

My tuning is MUCH MUCH tighter now. I have broken the steering joint in the axle because of it and now run Chromoly shafts. I do have selectable lockers and if I turn off the lockers and it truns even tighter. Also by unlocking the front locker when turning tightly you reduce the chance of breaking the steering joints in the front axle.

I have done allot to my steering. I have dremeled away some of the hubs, I have changed the linkage and done the servo on axle mount. I have spent allot of time just looking at it and watched how things moved and what I need to do to allow it to move more.

Specifically the benefits of the servo down on the axle is much more room and less binding allow for more upward susp travel and the weight of the servo is lower. The steering linkage and the tie rod stay basically parallel this makes turning faster and easier. The steer linkage position does not change as your suspension flexes, this makes things smoother and frees up space for upward suspension travel. You also ditch the panhard bar. The panhard par puts stress on the axle and frame mount and they can brake. The panhard bar gets in the way of upward susp travel. Once it is gone it frees up space for suspension movement.

[Blaze0303]

Originally Posted by MOguy

Lots of option, what are the rules for the class you are competing in? Not really right or wrong answers just options and trade offs.

I run my receiver on a a chunk of my battery box that is just big enough to hold it. I run my a small 1500 battery up front. I have about 4 oz in each wheel and a brass axle on servo mount but no other weight up front. I run 24% OD/UD. Mine weighs about 7 1/4lbs.

I'm not sure about the rules/classes yet, but i'll find out soon.

Another couple of questions

Should I keep the slipper or just eliminate it?

Springs, does anyone have a spring rate / setup sheet for the TRX-4? Or should I just start buying springs and seeing what works?

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by Blaze0303

I'm not sure about the rules/classes yet, but i'll find out soon.

Another couple of questions

Should I keep the slipper or just eliminate it?

Springs, does anyone have a spring rate / setup sheet for the TRX-4? Or should I just start buying springs and seeing what works?

I don't use sliders on this RC, The lexan on the body can fold and crunch and bend and just get out of the way of the rocks by sheer force if necessary.

On my C1 I have a hard body and use sliders. The hard body was expensive and it wont bend and fold like a lexan body.

Where I comp they only count scale points on class 1 the sliders not only protect the body but they are worth scale points. For my other RC I just get cheap lexan bodies, $30-$40 and $10 for paint. I don't care if they get beat up.

For springs I got the light ones I could and use 2,000 shock oil. The RC above weighs just over 7lbs.

[Blaze0303]

Originally Posted by MOguy

I don't use sliders on this RC, The lexan on the body can fold and crunch and bend and just get out of the way of the rocks by sheer force if necessary.

On my C1 I have a hard body and use sliders. The hard body was expensive and it wont bend and fold like a lexan body.

Where I comp they only count scale points on class 1 the sliders not only protect the body but they are worth scale points. For my other RC I just get cheap lexan bodies, $30-$40 and $10 for paint. I don't care if they get beat up.

For springs I got the light ones I could and use 2,000 shock oil. The RC above weighs just over 7lbs.

I'm really stuck between going C1 or C2, I'm trying to make that decision now before I start making major changes to the truck. I think I'm leaning towards C1.

Side note: A buddy has a Capra builders kit for sale, you think it's worth picking up for a C3 build?

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by Blaze0303

Side note: A buddy has a Capra builders kit for sale, you think it's worth picking up for a C3 build?

I suppose anything can be built but out of the box they are not competitive. I have seen a few in comps and they rarely can keep all 4 wheels on the ground. Their balance or geometry or something is off.

[Blaze0303]

Originally Posted by MOguy

I suppose anything can be built but out of the box they are not competitive. I have seen a few in comps and they rarely can keep all 4 wheels on the ground. Their balance or geometry or something is off.

Okay good to know, thank you.

[DrIsotope]

Originally Posted by Blaze0303

A buddy has a Capra builders kit for sale, you think it's worth picking up for a C3 build?

Worth it? I would say so. (not me in the video, I should clarify)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOqQWhlb-K4

I have 4WS on my build as well, it is ABSOLUTELY worth it.