New Sport Kit build - terrible plastics?

[Ninomaniac]

Hi.

Just started a sport kit build. I think I stripped most of the screw holes right away (still on gearbox part). I even dipped the screws in a bit of grease so they go in easier and I can feel when they're snug, but they just kept spinning without much resistance.

Haven't had that problem with my Axial build, let alone my 3racing EX Real, that plastic is like steel.

Weird.

[mr_alister]

Very weird. I didnt have any problems with my build. I found it to be very high quality. You arent using a power screwdriver are you?
Also ive never heard of dipping screws in grease. Maybe you should try nail polish instead. It works like threadlock on plastics...

[Ninomaniac]

I just use a bit of grease so that the threading into fresh plastic part goes easier. Switched to drool in the meantine, LOL.

I use a power driver until the last mm or 2 and then tighten by hand. Anyway, I gave up on trying to judge tightness by feel and instead tighten them until I see they're snug and then a quarter or a half turn more. So far so good. Rear axle done, starting front now!

[rag6]

Cool tip on nail polish. I usually use ca on plastic.

Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk

[Ninomaniac]

Two hours for the tranny and axles with small breaks. Should be done today, electronics probably tomorrow.

Still undecided if I wanna go with the kit body or get something else, and try to sell the stocker with the rack and stuff while it's still new.

[mr_alister]

The stock one and rack are terribly heavey. Makes the whole rig super top heavy. I sliced and diced mine up a lot first and then eventually ditched the whole rack.

[Ninomaniac]

Yeah, I'll be running it without the rack if I keep it, drop it as low as possible and cut where needed...

Anyway, almost done (electrics to go) and already looking at some mods to drop the CoG

[mr_alister]

That's half the fun! I also ditched the battery tray and run the battery on a side tray for that exact reason. Still haven't added any brass but i think my cog is as low as possible just by using mods.

[Ninomaniac]

I ordered some brass portal covers for the front and that's about it.

Also plan to run electronics on one side and battery on the other

Ran it across the yard on 2s a bit and it's way too fast with stock gearing. Plan on running 27t TM sport on 4s (HW 880). Gotta get me a 45t spur and couple of pinions...

Anyway, my only slow truck for the last year or two has been a 3racing EX real so this is a frickin comp crawler in comparison 😂

[Inspector86]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

Hi.

Just started a sport kit build. I think I stripped most of the screw holes right away (still on gearbox part). I even dipped the screws in a bit of grease so they go in easier and I can feel when they're snug, but they just kept spinning without much resistance.

Haven't had that problem with my Axial build, let alone my 3racing EX Real, that plastic is like steel.

Weird.

Are you using a power driver of some sort? The Traxxas plastic is actually considered to be very good. Yes it will strip if you keep turning the screws.

[HumboldtEF]

Also when using a drill make sure you arent going too fast as that will create heat which can essentially strip a hole if overdone. You can just touch the head of a screw after you run it in to check.

Are you hand tightening these or finishing it entirely with the drill?

[Ninomaniac]

Tightening by hand, always. Anyway, I got the hang of it after a few screws. I guess the plastic isnt't bad, just doesn't give me a feeling when tight is tight enough, I dunno how to explain it
It's somewhere between old axial, too soft and 3racing, too hard.

It really helps to dip the screw in any kind of fluid to make the tapping part easier.

Planning to go to some nearby ruins (with awesome rocky lines on the way to the top) to try out my new toy today.

UD rear gears, 45t spur and some other bits already on the way. Cut up the body to tuck in the fenders, no ideas for a paintjob. Have some cans of plastidip 1/4 to half full, probably use that temporarily, and some day get some proper lexan paints if I decide on a paint scheme.

[Inspector86]

With the 45t spur I recommend a 9t or 10t pinion. That will keep the motor from overheating and give you more low end torque.

[MOguy]

I have had problems with my 1:1 and using grease on threads. I broke a bolt butting a diff cover on. Specs called for 25lbs I bloke it before I hit 25 lbs, I also broke a drive shaft because of over greasing. If you use grease or RTV on a bolt or item that has to no place for the built up grease to exit it can pack up you can break things easier than you can think. I would think it could cause threads to strip it too much grease got packed into to tight of an area.

Also actual grease (not synthetic) can degrade some plastic and some rubbers making them weaker but that takes time.

[Ninomaniac]

That's good to know, never thought of it.

I used white teflon containing grease, should be plastic safe (sold in a store that mostly caters to guys fixing old school electronics like tape decks and such). And the tiniest amount, I doubt it could be enough to lock up. All of it probably got spread along the thread while screwing in.

I'll get a couple of pinions, afraid that 9/45 could be too slow for my liking even on 4s with a 27t motor. Need some wheelspeed for loose dirt trails.

Probably gonns get the 9t, and something like 11 and 13t to play around.