TRX4 front axle pushed forward?

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Figured I make this it’s own thread in case anybody wants to do this, but doesn’t want to search through my build thread for it


Finished up on something I’ve wanted to do for a long time today.

I have wanted to push the front axle forward on this rig, and today I did it, and it works *sort of*

This is how I did it. I first started by ditching these links(sorry I don’t know the correct terminology), then I replaced them with the 12.3” links from the rear I had spare from doing the LWB conversion. Perfect size.




Then came the panhard? link. It was short like 1/2”, so I unscrewed the rod ends on both sides to gain that 1/2” back.



Last but not least came this link(again, I don’t know the terminology lol). I put an 1/8” spacer behind the link so it wouldn’t hit the panhard? link. It still rubs a little, so I need to figure that out.



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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Figured I make this it’s own thread in case anybody wants to do this, but doesn’t want to search through my build thread for it


Finished up on something I’ve wanted to do for a long time today.

I have wanted to push the front axle forward on this rig, and today I did it, and it works *sort of*

This is how I did it. I first started by ditching these links(sorry I don’t know the correct terminology), then I replaced them with the 12.3” links from the rear I had spare from doing the LWB conversion. Perfect size.




Then came the panhard? link. It was short like 1/2”, so I unscrewed the rod ends on both sides to gain that 1/2” back.



Last but not least came this link(again, I don’t know the terminology lol). I put an 1/8” spacer behind the link so it wouldn’t hit the panhard? link. It still rubs a little, so I need to figure that out.



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Nice work! Did u do it for wheel-base-sake? Or for approach angle modification? Just curious.

R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by 23drumerboy

Nice work! Did u do it for wheel-base-sake? Or for approach angle modification? Just curious.

R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

I did it for approach angle. Now the wheels are first point of contact.

When I get my new tires, I may have to do longer links since I’m dropping down to 1.9s.


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[dr frankenstyle]

The first ones are just the lower and upper links, the second (running crosswise) is the panhard.

jim

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by dr frankenstyle

The first ones are just the lower and upper links, the second (running crosswise) is the panhard.

jim

Thanks Jim!


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[Stomp]

Cool. I would be interested to see a side view to see how it looks.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Stomp

Cool. I would be interested to see a side view to see how it looks.

Oops! I thought I added it! Adding now


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Side view. I did this solely for approach angle. The tires are now the first point of contact instead of the body.



It’s not a huge difference, but it does what it’s supposed to do.

Also, the body isn’t in the exact spot, so when I get my magnet mounts printed and installed, I’ll post up another picture of it in the final landing zone, lol

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[Phildirt]

I did something similar but stretched the rear (easier/less involved, just links and driveshaft) then pushed the body back to compensate. Pretty simple affair when mounted on velcro.

[RustyTaco]

I bent my front frame rails upwards to where they are now straight out from the shock towers to bumper mount...That also gained some clearance there to allow the tires to hit obstacles first



I may still cut some more metal to tuck the bumper back against the body about a half inch

[Phildirt]

I was going to mention that...if he's running a bumper it will negate that gain unless it's mounted really tight to the body.



All of this is why my next ride will be a buggy no grille/body to worry about.

[nismotuningrocks]

That top 3rd link is not going to last long with the rodends unthreaded like that. You need to have more thread engagement on the correct length link before you run that.

[Phildirt]

Personally I'd make longer links for the rear, move the axle back, and adjust where you are putting your magnetic mounts. Or look into tucking the bumper so you don't have to worry about wheelbase. How often do you try to scale a near vertical surface anyways?

[smog]

Would have to agree. If you are planning to keep the setup, you will want to make longer links. Those unthreaded links are weak points.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by nismotuningrocks

That top 3rd link is not going to last long with the rodends unthreaded like that. You need to have more thread engagement on the correct length link before you run that.

Originally Posted by smog

Would have to agree. If you are planning to keep the setup, you will want to make longer links. Those unthreaded links are weak points.

I learned that pretty quickly. My newbie self thought they were able to be done, but one test run and it came off. I’ll have to either make a new one, or try and find one online.

Originally Posted by Phildirt

Personally I'd make longer links for the rear, move the axle back, and adjust where you are putting your magnetic mounts. Or look into tucking the bumper so you don't have to worry about wheelbase. How often do you try to scale a near vertical surface anyways?

I’m not running a bumper, as of now. If I do, I’ll definitely be sure to tuck it as much as possible.

I didn’t do the rear axle for two reasons. One, I had all these links on hand, so I just decided to play with it and see where it goes. And two, I don’t run a bumper in the rear either, so the frame rails butt up right behind the body, so it has a roll cage type protection in the rear.

Near vertical, more than you think. There is some crazy stuff out in the lava fields and on the shore in general.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by RustyTaco

I bent my front frame rails upwards to where they are now straight out from the shock towers to bumper mount...That also gained some clearance there to allow the tires to hit obstacles first



I may still cut some more metal to tuck the bumper back against the body about a half inch

That looks like it helps a lot! Did you just not notch it and bend it?


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[RustyTaco]

Im sure there's a more sophisticated way, but 15 min of work and free so... I used a vice and hammer to bend and smash the rails into place, which will cause the rails to twist a bit ...but I smashed them flat then drilled holes to attach the bumper...cant see any of it so its all good.

yeah this helped a ton with approaches ...unless youre trying to scale a vertical wall don't think you need to get much crazier

[Inspector86]

Typically I discourage anyone from moving the front axle simply becasue there is so much steering geometry involved. I think you kinda understand that now. If you want to increase the approach angle you are generally better off trimming the front of the frame rails. But we all have to learn somewhere.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

Typically I discourage anyone from moving the front axle simply becasue there is so much steering geometry involved. I think you kinda understand that now. If you want to increase the approach angle you are generally better off trimming the front of the frame rails. But we all have to learn somewhere.

Yeah, I quickly learned that it’s not as easy as It seemed in my mind lol.

With me using magnets for the body, I’m going to move the mounting position of the body backwards and maybe even cut/bend the rails.


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