New battery

[freakylee77]

Can you change the battery hookup on the stock esc,to run different batteries or does it mess with the battery id?

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[amigaman]

There is no "ID" in the battery.
I guess you're using Traxxas overpriced underperforming stuff, and no, the "ID" part is just the balancer connector in the power plug so the charger can see if it's a nickel (no balancing) or 2 or 3S Lipo (balancing contacts used), no more no less. Neither you nor your charger or ESC can ID any battery from any other battery.
You can use any and all Lipos and Nickels your ESC can take, voltage wise, so on the XL5HV it's 2S/3S Lipo and 6S to like 10S Nickels, as far as you can mount them in the car and they have a fitting plug (or you use an adaptor, although that is not recommended).
Minimum size is determined by the current consumption of the car, you'll need some 10 amps or so at least.

Think about changing the ESC plug to XT60, using XT60 Lipos and a professional charger, like something from ISDT.
You'll pay a lot less money and get a lot more performance i'd say.

[freakylee77]

Thanks. Was running 8.4v nimh but found a box of(10) 7.2v nimh. Any problem(besides less voltage)using these?

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[amigaman]

They should do.
Although a 2S Lipo will make you think you got a turbo in it.

[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by amigaman

They should do.
Although a 2S Lipo will make you think you got a turbo in it.

U can find decent LIPOs on Amazon/fleaBay, dirt cheap! My first RC was a redcat RTR on-Road "drift" car, it came wirh a HexFly 15C 2s LIPO 1500 maH or 2500maH rating., I cant recall, but i only THOUGHT that was an A.B.S.O.L.U.T.E. BLASSSST! ....until i bought a 3s LIPO, and i SWEAR ON EVERYTHING, that first 3s pack had me GRINNING LIKE A SCHOOLGIRL for at LEAST a week!!!....

i found a few options as far as "cheap" lipos, but all i can TRULY recommend for budget lipo batteries is as follows:
(This is in terms of play-time (run-time between charge cycles) at WOT, as well as performance, ie; "Punch" power, least Lag to get to "punch"-power, as well as top speed). Also, DO NOT BUY HRB brand Lipo batteries. Ive been stupid enough to try 3 or maybe 4, and EVERY single one has puffed by the 3rd-ish to maybe, MAYBE 5th charge cycle (they were soft-case packs, and i was NOT in control of my RC initially, therefore my crashes were far-more "epic/film-worthy", than they EVER were "controlled" or mitigated. I digress.

1. ZEee Batteries! They have been my idea of the ULTIMATE "budget" battery (6000mah, 60C, 3S on amazon for quite a bit less than $50USD! Think - 35-40ish?) One of my GO-TO batteries that is less than 80c amp draw rating

2. Hoovoo

3. Tattu

4. POVWAY

All brands i have been MORE than pleased with!

Yes, i had prior soldering experience, on Microphone cables, as a sound guy, bout 16 years ago! (Yes, they had mics back then! Lol) but i DID study youtube, read countless articles, and bought all the proper tools, solder, flux, etc. And ill admit my first 2-12 xt60 connectors were ROUGH-looking, but they WORKED, and didnt fail me! Make sure to heat-shrink any exposed solder/solder tabs/wires.

R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

[austin-92]

I started out on 7.2v nimh and was content, bought an 8.4v and thought that was fast until I had a buddy give me a lipo charger so I bought a venom 2200mah 3s crawler pack with the battery adaptors, it was like 42$. Now THAT was fast, I even dropped 2 teeth on the pinion and could still drift my crawler on the kitchen floor. I still get nervous about the dangers of lipo’s but I take a lot of precautions with where it’s charged and stored.


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