Few different issues. Not sure what to do

[Afterbang]

So I've got a couple different things going on(I'll do my best to try to post pics with issues, but I'm not confident, I'm that savvy) I bought a handful of parts and installed them all at once and now I have just about zero shock travel, for a couple different reasons.
First, I bought a lcg battery tray from kyx(Amazon) and it hits the upper link mount, at about half compression. It's kinda blurry looking down it, but it's the best picture I took. I know the issue, but I also run a full size 5500 mah battery, cause I have to let my kids play with me. Should I got back to the stock tray, and just stuck it up? Or cut it and get a short pack?
Second I bought shock tower mounts(again of Amazon) and the shocks bind, if the screws are tight (zero travel) if they're loose links get stopped by the battery tray and my third issue.
Now that I'm writing it out, I've seen the pattern.
Third issue is, I burned out the stock servo so I put in an eco power servo, but the tire rod hits the servo horn mount, long before shocks bottom of, and I can't trim it because of where it hits.
I'll upload my pictures, but I think I know the answer to most of the questions.

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[Inspector86]

1. that is normal with the LCG battery tray. It simply does not provide enough clearance for the rear suspension by design.
2. With those shock mounts you will need to run spacers in order to avoid binding. That is not the best design for a shock mount BTW.
3. Looks like you may have the servo horn installed upside down? Tip: buy yourself a metal servo horn that plastic will strip out at some point. Tip#2 take a look at the Savox 1230SG, powerful servo for a reasonable price.

[Afterbang]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

1. that is normal with the LCG battery tray. It simply does not provide enough clearance for the rear suspension by design.
2. With those shock mounts you will need to run spacers in order to avoid binding. That is not the best design for a shock mount BTW.
3. Looks like you may have the servo horn installed upside down. Tip: buy yourself a metal servo horn that plastic will strip out at some point. Tip#2 take a look at the Savox 1230SG, powerful servo for a reasonable price.

I appreciate the info.
What's a better way to mount the shocks? I'm on board to try something else. With spacers and the size of the rod end, that sends like a ton of leverage on the end of the shock.

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[Ninomaniac]

Stock towers.

[twade984]

You have your shocks mounted to the highest point in the shock towers, higher than stock. This is allowing more up travel, causing interference with the battery tray, servo horn, and due to the design of the towers, binding in the shocks apparently.

This is also causing reduced down travel, and a lower ride height.

My recommendation would be installing the shocks in the lowest position and reevaluating the problems. You shouldn’t need spacers on the shocks with them mounted lower on the shock tower.

I’m not familiar with that battery tray, there may be interference even with the stock shock height, but it wouldn’t be as noticeable I’m sure.


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[xagoras]

I've run into similar issues when I installed a lcg tray like this. Unfortunately it's going to be a compromise. Either loose some shock travel and leave it as it is, or mount it a bit higher (not that low cg as expected) and keep what you have now in the shock travel.

Check the 2nd page on this thread:

The Wild Lady..... Mercedes G500 Project

I'm not familiar with that servo, but it seems like it is installed the wrong way so when turning left, it has no room?

The shocks should be an easy fix, if you use some spacers as mentioned or some nuts to keep the shock away from the tower.

[Afterbang]

Originally Posted by xagoras

I've run into similar issues when I installed a lcg tray like this. Unfortunately it's going to be a compromise. Either loose some shock travel and leave it as it is, or mount it a bit higher (not that low cg as expected) and keep what you have now in the shock travel.

Check the 2nd page on this thread:

The Wild Lady..... Mercedes G500 Project

I'm not familiar with that servo, but it seems like it is installed the wrong way so when turning left, it has no room?

The shocks should be an easy fix, if you use some spacers as mentioned or some nuts to keep the shock away from the tower.

Xagoras thanks for the idea! Maybe I'll just move the battery tray, like was suggested in your thread and see where that gets me.
Also I dig the g wagon, it painted a 4 door jeep scx24 very similar to yours. Apparently I don't have any pictures of it after I painted it and put it in the box, but I went pretty heavy on the pearl, cause what little girl doesn't love pink and glitter?

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[xagoras]

Yeah, that project was lots of fun and definitely worth it. My daughter's face when she is driving it is all the money

I actually kept the battery in the modded position. Somehow it feels better when it's on the road.

That little SCX looks good. Add a couple of black stickers and it will be a monster.

[Afterbang]

Originally Posted by twade984

You have your shocks mounted to the highest point in the shock towers, higher than stock. This is allowing more up travel, causing interference with the battery tray, servo horn, and due to the design of the towers, binding in the shocks apparently.

This is also causing reduced down travel, and a lower ride height.

My recommendation would be installing the shocks in the lowest position and reevaluating the problems. You shouldn’t need spacers on the shocks with them mounted lower on the shock tower.

I’m not familiar with that battery tray, there may be interference even with the stock shock height, but it wouldn’t be as noticeable I’m sure.


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twade, I appreciate the input the reason for my shocks mounted where they were was too try to keep it low. The reason I replaced the shock towers is because I have an rc4wd 2001 Tacoma body going on it, but in order to get it even with the skid plate(?) That the servos mount on for the lockers, I have to cut them out and I like the look of these better than the stock ones sticking through.
Are there better made shock towers? I rather not go back to the stock one, but shocks that bind kinda degrades the entire process.

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[twade984]

Unfortunately I don’t have much input on Trx4 shock towers, I kept all of mine relatively stock until I sold them.

I would see if you can get everything to work with what you have, just by mounting the shocks closer to the stock position. The Trx4 is setup pretty well in my opinion to utilize the most up travel in the stock configuration.

Let us know how things turn out, regardless which route you take

[Inspector86]

I have used the Yeah Racing TRX4 shock towers with great success. They do not provide any adjustment for the top end of the shock but they are strong. You can lower the ride height by adjusting the springs on the TRX4 shocks with no pre-load.

[MOguy]

In order to answer the first couple question you need to explain what your goal is. There is really no right or wrong answer, just trade offs.

1. Do you want a lower center of gravity for better performance or do you want a bigger battery for run time. You can't have both. Even with a stock battery tray if you tune it for lower center of gravity that tray may still be in the way. A small battery up front is a good option if you want lower CG but you will less run time.

2. Just put a couple small washer between the shock and tower and the shock and mounting point on the axle. Keep the shocks parallels to each other. It is really that simple. Raising your shocks help it clear but you raise you weight higher and become more tippy. Lower you shocks affects your break over but will make you more stable.

3. if that is a stock servo plastic horn get rid of it. The metal TRX one is fine. As far as it hitting you can get off set link ends that will fix that problem. Add the link a the end when it mounts to the frame and see if you have enough room.

[Afterbang]

Originally Posted by MOguy

In order to answer the first couple question you need to explain what your goal is. There is really no right or wrong answer, just trade offs.

1. Do you want a lower center of gravity for better performance or do you want a bigger battery for run time. You can't have both. Even with a stock battery tray if you tune it for lower center of gravity that tray may still be in the way. A small battery up front is a good option if you want lower CG but you will less run time.

2. Just put a couple small washer between the shock and tower and the shock and mounting point on the axle. Keep the shocks parallels to each other. It is really that simple. Raising your shocks help it clear but you raise you weight higher and become more tippy. Lower you shocks affects your break over but will make you more stable.

3. if that is a stock servo plastic horn get rid of it. The metal TRX one is fine. As far as it hitting you can get off set link ends that will fix that problem. Add the link a the end when it mounts to the frame and see if you have enough room.

MO Those are all very valid questions, ones that I haven't really answered my self.

First question: I have a 5500mah battery right now. I had planned on buying a short pack and cutting the battery tray to fit the new battery.

Second: I moved the top of the shock mounts around, and also the servo horn(it's a smaller metal one now) and pan hard bar.

I've got pretty good travel, shocks cycle full extention to full compression, independently. I'm fine with that. I'm putting a rc4wd 2001 Tacoma body on it, and it's a pretty (not tall) body. Not sure how else to explain it.

Here's where I'm at: the pictures show how much I had to raise the sliders to match the body. The body on it doesn't mount on the back, I'm painting a new one.

I hope that answered the questions, and want too(I know it was alot) many words.
I apposite the input.

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[MOguy]

Originally Posted by Afterbang

MO Those are all very valid questions, ones that I haven't really answered my self.

First question: I have a 5500mah battery right now. I had planned on buying a short pack and cutting the battery tray to fit the new battery.

Second: I moved the top of the shock mounts around, and also the servo horn(it's a smaller metal one now) and pan hard bar.

I've got pretty good travel, shocks cycle full extention to full compression, independently. I'm fine with that. I'm putting a rc4wd 2001 Tacoma body on it, and it's a pretty (not tall) body. Not sure how else to explain it.

Here's where I'm at: the pictures show how much I had to raise the sliders to match the body. The body on it doesn't mount on the back, I'm painting a new one.

I hope that answered the questions, and want too(I know it was alot) many words.
I apposite the input.

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That looks really good. It seems you're going more of a scalar direction than a cheater direction. Putting your body lower will help your center of gravity but it changes the look and you'll have to widen out your flares to fit the tires. You could get a floater bumper in move your winch into the grill, that will improve your approach angle but it will take away from the look. It's all about trade offs.

[Afterbang]

Mo, thanks. It's taken some time to get everything worked out, but I think I'm finally happy with it.
I'd love to get the bumper tucked back up to the body, but I think I will have to go with a jeep style stinger. Meaning just the width of the frame rails. My tires get into the bumper pretty good.
What is a floater bumper?

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[Afterbang]

Originally Posted by MOguy

That looks really good. It seems you're going more of a scalar direction than a cheater direction. Putting your body lower will help your center of gravity but it changes the look and you'll have to widen out your flares to fit the tires. You could get a floater bumper in move your winch into the grill, that will improve your approach angle but it will take away from the look. It's all about trade offs.

Mo, I don't know why it didn't quote you the first time. It's actually a light bar, but it can go. I had bought it for my scx24, but it was way too big. It's only there because I had it. But like I said, the tires already got the bumper, or I would have moved it closer.

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