Jato Repents with a VS4-10 Origin Limited Kit

[svt923]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Now, I have a question. Has anybody found a way to angle the motor wires coming out of the Mamba X?

You could resolder the wires to the bullets so they are at an angle but I went the lazy way and cut most of the shrink tubing covering the bullet plug to allow the wire to bend enough to clear the interior.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by MaX-D

Do they make 90 degree 4 mm bullet plugs that you could solder your wire to and then to the ESC?

They do, but the "platform" for the wire is too large and it hits the ESC so you can't push them into the plugs on the ESC itself which is a bummer. If I remove the fan, the 90° connectors may work.

Originally Posted by svt923

You could resolder the wires to the bullets so they are at an angle but I went the lazy way and cut most of the shrink tubing covering the bullet plug to allow the wire to bend enough to clear the interior.

I'm definitely looking for the easy way! I may try cutting the wire insulation and shrink tube back a little. Thanks for the tip.

Unless I'm missing something, it's not that easy to solder the wire in at an angle on Castle's bullet connectors because the wire goes straight in. I guess I could strip too much insulation off of the wires, bend them at at angle, and then solder them so they stay in place if that's what you mean.
That does give me another idea though. I could angle cut the connectors with a Dremel and that would allow me to solder them at an angle for sure. Not sure why I didn't think of that previously, probably because this usually isn't an issue, but thanks for jogging my brain.

[svt923]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Unless I'm missing something, it's not that easy to solder the wire in at an angle on Castle's bullet connectors because the wire goes straight in. I guess I could strip too much insulation off of the wires, bend them at at angle, and then solder them so they stay in place if that's what you mean.
That does give me another idea though. I could angle cut the connectors with a Dremel and that would allow me to solder them at an angle for sure. Not sure why I didn't think of that previously, probably because this usually isn't an issue, but thanks for jogging my brain.

Yeah, you would have to grind some of the connector for that to work.

I usually use these type of bullets so soldering at any angle up to 90* isn't an issue.

[GA Dawg]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I don't want the wires to rub on the interior and rub off the paint.

Anytime I'm worried about something rubbing the paint off of the inside of a body I just put masking tape over the part of the body where any rubbing will occur.

[soze]

@Jato, I had the same issue with the Mamba X in my GMADE GOM since I needed the bullet plugs at an angle. I found some 90deg bullet plugs that work, and that's what my GOM is running now.

Let me try to find out what I used.

EDIT: Linked wrong size connectors.... Here is a something similar to what I got TQ narrow 4mm connectors.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by svt923

Yeah, you would have to grind some of the connector for that to work.

I usually use these type of bullets so soldering at any angle up to 90* isn't an issue.

Those are the type I used to use and I forget where I got them. HobbyKing maybe? Is that where you got yours?

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

Anytime I'm worried about something rubbing the paint off of the inside of a body I just put masking tape over the part of the body where any rubbing will occur.

Good point! But the wires are putting a lot of pressure on the interior and body as well. You have to force it down and then you can tell there's a lot of upwards pressure on the body clips.

Originally Posted by soze

@Jato, I had the same issue with the Mamba X in my GMADE GOM since I needed the bullet plugs at an angle. I found some 90deg bullet plugs that work, and that's what my GOM is running now.

Let me try to find out what I used.

EDIT: I think it was these.

Nice! Those are perfect. Thank you.

[mikemcE]

Search for 90 degree 4mm speaker connector. Might need some different colored shrink wrap if you’re worried



Hang up and Drive

[soze]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Those are the type I used to use and I forget where I got them. HobbyKing maybe? Is that where you got yours?




Good point! But the wires are putting a lot of pressure on the interior and body as well. You have to force it down and then you can tell there's a lot of upwards pressure on the body clips.




Nice! Those are perfect. Thank you.

Sorry!!! Just checked, wasn't those. YOu need 4mm connectors... let me see where the heck I got them from.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by soze

Sorry!!! Just checked, wasn't those. YOu need 4mm connectors... let me see where the heck I got them from.

I'm glad you caught that because I didn't even think to double check the size!

Looks like RC Juice has them in 4.0mm though.

https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-bu...ld-5-sets.html

[soze]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I'm glad you caught that because I didn't even think to double check the size!

Looks like RC Juice has them in 4.0mm though.

https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-bu...ld-5-sets.html

This is more in-line with what I got, as it is a little longer than the 4mm ones at RCJuice.

TQ narrow 4mm connector.

Sent you a picture on IG of what I'm using.

As well as having a width issue because of the MambaX connector spacing... I also had a height issue to fit it in the GOM which is why the top of my connector was as short as possible.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Search for 90 degree 4mm speaker connector. Might need some different colored shrink wrap if you’re worried

Apparently, Yeah Racing makes some RC specific ones as well which I just found searching AMain.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...t-0121/p723889

Originally Posted by soze

This is more in-line with what I got, as it is a little longer than the 4mm ones at RCJuice.

TQ narrow 4mm connector.

Sent you a picture on IG of what I'm using.

As well as having a width issue because of the MambaX connector spacing... I also had a height issue to fit it in the GOM which is why the top of my connector was as short as possible.

Thanks!

[JatoTheRipper]

Does anybody know of scale #4-40 scale hardware for the SLW hubs that will fit the Vanquish wheel? I got some acorn studs from LockedUp RC, but I can't find a 3mm driver small enough to fit in the recesses on the wheels.

[OSRC]

Take a screw with a 3mm head, chuck it in a drill and turn it down a bit until it fits?

Otherwise, I got nothing....


....Except I have a winter themed tablecloth....

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by OSRC

Take a screw with a 3mm head, chuck it in a drill and turn it down a bit until it fits?

Otherwise, I got nothing....


....Except I have a winter themed tablecloth....

I'm pretty sure the screw head won't fit. I'll try posting photos of the situation later tonight. I did finally just email LURC and ask them. Apparently, despite the fact that these screws are stated to fit SLW wheels, there is a smaller version...to fit SLW hubs. I'll see what LURC says.

I'm a mess...what can I say?

[JatoTheRipper]

I'm so anxious to drive this truck that I've just been staring at it and tinkering with it.

I was finally able to get my 3D printer to spit out some parts in my new, Overture black PETG. They're not the prettiest, but they should work fine. I've been struggling with that thing ever since I switched filaments. So I got annoyed and ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S. I've long been wanting a larger printer anyway and so now I'll have one. Hopefully the kit arrives today as planned.

Anyway, I printed GA Dawg's front, inner fender brace and winch servo spacer which he was kind enough to upload on Thingiverse. Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4072619

I also modeled up some backing plates for the inner fenders. There's one on Thingiverse, but it's much too small for my liking. Mine are about as tall as the frame rails to disperse the stresses from a flexing inner fender over a much greater area.

All of this is being done in hopes that I won't crack the inner fenders like the rear ones cracked on me just during assembly of the truck.




Here's the front brace installed along with the winch servo spacer. The two, extra servo screws were included with the kit. This is a good place holder for those screws. If I ever decide to add servo winch down the road I won't have to go digging for these two screws.

GA Dawg's brace fits perfectly. I'm running out of black hardware and I didn't want to use stainless screws for this mount because it will be visible on the inner fender so I used some Phillips head hardware from a Tamiya kit. I have tons of that lying around because I often upgrade Tamiya kits to hex head screws.




In this photo, you can see the Phillips screw head for the inner fender brace and my inner fender backer. My backer looks like it hangs way below the frame rails, but that's not really the case. I think it does hang down a little, but the perspective makes it looks worse than it is.




Next up I removed the rear, inner fenders that were both broken somewhere during assembly.




When installing the new, inner fenders I did notice more differences. The old, rear inner fender went underneath the rearmost "wedge" that is used to contain the sides of the body shell. The new one does not go under this wedge as you can see by this new cutout.




In the rear I have not yet printed a brace. I did install the backers though.




As seen in the photo in a post above, I did remember that I bought SSD scale hubs and I installed those on the front.




Lastly, I drew some body lines onto the body. They look good from far, but far from good. Thankfully, these are removable with isopropyl alcohol if I decide that I don't like them. You can see how bad they look up close in this photo. But farther away photos should look just like body seams and nothing else.

[sherbs]

Your inner fender backers alone should help a lot.

[FREEDOM83]

I loved watching and especially reading the thread, I like you to be so critical I have even laughed a lot with how you do some criticism, such as having a TOC hehehehe. I like threads like that, with the good and the bad, I am waiting for a PRO and I am now going to read your ULTRA thread, but I will follow your threads, I liked everything. A greeting from Spain .

[B-MOW71]

Nice body lines!

Bodies look so much better with these lines. I tried adding the lines to mine, but my once steady hands weren't having it. I'm gonna have to get a new Sharpie and a beer and try it again!

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by sherbs

Your inner fender backers alone should help a lot.

Hopefully! And I hope yours do the same for you.

Originally Posted by FREEDOM83

I loved watching and especially reading the thread, I like you to be so critical I have even laughed a lot with how you do some criticism, such as having a TOC hehehehe. I like threads like that, with the good and the bad, I am waiting for a PRO and I am now going to read your ULTRA thread, but I will follow your threads, I liked everything. A greeting from Spain .

Thank you very much! When you say "TOC" what do you mean? In the US I know TOC as Table Of Contents.

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Nice body lines!

Bodies look so much better with these lines. I tried adding the lines to mine, but my once steady hands weren't having it. I'm gonna have to get a new Sharpie and a beer and try it again!

Thank you! I shake like a leaf at times, especially doing small, detail work, from medicine so I totally get it. I only get lucky when I get the Sharpie to stay in the molded body line. Believe me, I wiped my drawn lines clean with alcohol and started over many times to get it to even look this average.

[FREEDOM83]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Thank you very much! When you say "TOC" what do you mean? In the US I know TOC as Table Of Contents.

Sorry, it's the hehehhe translator, I was referring to OCD, in Spain is TOC hehehhehehe