The Ascender

[Abavuso]

After a lot of consideration I decided to try out the Vaterra Ascender and see how it holds up compared to a stock SCX-10 Dingo kit. This is my first Vaterra rig ever so I'm coming into this one blind.

Here's the break down or should I say the primary differences.

Dingo kit: $249 (Hobby People)

Transmission: Molded gears
Axles: Dog Bones, split case, 4 link f/r
Chassis: Fixed length


Vaterra Ascender: $289 (RPP Hobby with discount code)

Transmission: Metal Gears (Can mod to two speed for about $80-$90 in parts)
Axles: 4 Link, with 3 link panhard, CVD (Look like LCC CVD's)
Chassis: 3 WB length adjustable with all required hardware.
Wire Management Clips

For electronics, I'm going to run a BRXL, 45T HH Trail Master Sport, and either 3s or 4s lipo like in my class three.

The over all quality of the plastics seam similar between the axial and vaterra. As for durability, time will tell.

During the assembly, I found my kit to be missing the slipper Pads... Called up Horizon and they shipped me out a set with no issues.



I assembles the links as directed in the manual and found the front axle had some negative camber as others have noted. I considered drilling like Harley did but decided to remove the spacer and add 2x 2mm spacers in place. That seamed to fix the camber. It did change the pinion angle a little more than I would have prefered, but it was a quick painless fix. I might add one more spacer just to reduct the pinion angle a little more to save stress on the drive shaft. I'll decide once I get the slipper pads and can actually drive it.







Last step, I decided to attempt using a liquid mask for the first time to paint the body. It turned out ok and I learned a lot about painting this time around. Check it out.







Once the slipper pads arrive and I can get it out on the rocks, you can look forward to a full review video, and a little creativity

[Abavuso]

I now have the slipper pads installed and the truck ready to go. I do notice one problem that Harley also had. The front axle has a "jump" it is like something is binding. After about an hour of playing around and taking parts off, I've narrowed it down to the CVD's, I think. It seams that for some reason, the CVD's or the drive shaft bind when they spin. I tried greasing everything up again and double checking the fit of all the parts. I even took the 3 Link off and rotated the pinion angle and it didn't change the binding. It all looks good but still there was no change in the problem.

The main thing to note is, without the wheels on, there is little to no binding. Once you put the wheels on, the binding gets really bad. It's almost as if the weight of the wheels hanging on the stub are causing a bind. I'm wondering what might happen if I put some set screws in there. The Venom Creeper CVD's which were built in a similar manner has set screws and spun slick as butter.

When you set the rig on the ground and drive it, you can see that the spin is off on the front axle. My concern is, more use might equal broken parts.

Looks like I'll need to call Horizon to see what they think might be the issue here.

[OSRC]

The weight of the wheels is increasing the rotating mass, with is making the jump more apparent. It's still there with the wheels off, just not as noticable I'd guess.

[Abavuso]

Originally Posted by OSRC

The weight of the wheels is increasing the rotating mass, with is making the jump more apparent. It's still there with the wheels off, just not as noticeable I'd guess.

I was thinking that was the case but I couldn't really verify that. I put a lighter weight plastic wheel on it and ran it through a few rotations and it seamed like it was still slightly there. I'm almost wondering id the pinion gear needs a shim or if the drive shaft is just binding under pressure. Either way it looks like something is binding. Thank you for your thoughts.

[Abavuso]

See it in action in the: Real Honest Review Video - RHR Vaterra Ascender - YouTube

So I've had some time to get this truck out on the rocks. The axle issue I was having seamed to go away after about 3 hours of driving. There might have been a small spur in the metal of the joint but who knows, it's gone now.

The torque twist seams to be a little more than a stock SCX-10 but to no detriment in performance. I'm sure turning the springs and wheel weight will help iron out the torque twist just fine.

So far I've had no issues with the pinion in the dif. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Over all, I love this rig and now, it's time to see what else I can do to make it even better... Stay tuned for updates.

[AngelowDoom]

I had the same axle issue with my Dingo, but it also was gone after a few runs. Also put some extra grease on, and now it is as smooth as butter ;)

Cant wait for the Acender to arrive in the shop I use.

[juan r]

Nice looks good

[Abavuso]

So I've been playing around with my Ascender and decided to compare it stock to the Dingo... Check out my video...

Dingo vs Ascender - YouTube

Also, the only modifications I've done so far is play with pinion sizes. Currently have got a 23T pinion on 4S with a brxl and 45T TMS... I love this set up and so far the motor just gets slightly warm to the touch so I think it's a good mix.

Mods to come in the near future... lots of custom 3D printed stuff!

[Abavuso]

So I finally got my 3D Printer up and running so I started working on a few projects.

First I made some rear upper link relocation tabs. It helps reduce the torque twist. Then I moved on to designing some inner fenders for the ascender. Concept design was almost a perfect fit. Now to refine and finish the design.

[martoediefroets]

Very nice..

[Abavuso]

Finished reworking the design and printing it... here's version 2... had two minor adjustment to make and version 3 is on the printer. This is what it's going to look like minus that small bit hanging out by the slider. Should have the final product up tomorrow to see.

[Jimbow]

Would you sell a set of inner fender wells?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Abavuso]

I don't have a vender star at the moment unfortunately. But i do plan on getting one again soon. At the moment I'm waiting for the black filament to arrive to start printing some stock. These take 6 hours per set to print so soon i can get the vender stare and be able help you out.


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[juan r]

They look good nice job

[juan r]

I made some inner fenders for my k5 out of Tupperware they don't look too bad but yours look really awesome

[Abavuso]

I have the front fenders complete... talk about some time... 6 hours to print! No mater, these things are awesome. I finished the design for the rear and they are printing right now to in another 6 ish hours they will be complete too. Until then, heres the photos of the finished fronts.

[BadWagon]

Great thread bud. Those fender liners look f'n great!

[Abavuso]

Now I've completed the rear fenders. Next I'll work on some floor boards to tie the front and rear together. Check it out. One thing I did to with these was to end the fender where the Metal C channel ends. This way, they should still fit under a different body should I some day change it.

[juan r]

dam they look good you think they will work with the R2J sliders i have them on my k5

[juan r]

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