Originally Posted by Natedog (Post 5775313)

Going lower profile and COG, added aluminum Axial crossmember in place of fuel cell mount. Cut out two 1/4" thick black kydex spacers to go inside frame rails, slid the cell down and back as low as it could go and not limit suspension movement, glued it to the spacers, drilled and bolted in place with rear shock tower mount screws. More to come...down lower.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4446-65021.jpg

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4446-65022.jpg

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...4446-65023.jpg

Originally Posted by rockhugger (Post 5785611)

Wow!!!! That looks mean and nasty Natedog.. "thumbsup"

Originally Posted by Crawler Cads (Post 5785644)

Those Cody sliders are soooo damned good. Wish I could braze like that!

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF (Post 5787654)

I finally installed my sway bar and I wanted put together a thread on the process but I'm not sure I can get pictures as good as yours, plus I mostly followed yours and Yetistealth's guides. Would you mind I compile your info and pictures?

Originally Posted by Natedog (Post 5558501)

Helpers cleaning up shop.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psbyibpen4.jpg


How she sits now, got spare tire glued up after scraping chrome off the rim for the beads to CA, would be nice if Horizon put the little masking tape over the bead area like Traxxas does, so that there's less chrome scraping to do. Note the rear swaybar connected and sitting underneath. I outboarded the rear upper shock mounts with 5mm Axial green aluminum spacers, those spacers are super handy, I've bought several different lengths just to have around for such needs. Measured and the rear lower mounts are 10mm outboard by just moving them to the outside of axle mounts. Outbaording the upper mounts gives little more room for sway bar ends and links, plus fights TT. Next is lower swaybar link and then the lower link in stock position. I was going to use Ascender end links for swaybar because they are so beefy, but space is tight and so I'm testing with Traxxas Big Bore lower shock ends, then maybe Axial shock ends. Vaterra plastic is best, then Traxxas, with Axial plastic the least durable, but should be ok for swaybar. The shorter plastic end links help reduce interference between the links and shocks lower spring seat. Traxxas steel end link balls come in several different widths, I used calipers to measure the ones that I have on hand (0.249", 0.273", and 0.315". I've settled on the narrowest (0.249") since they provide enough flex travel without binding. Ascender ballss are 0.275" wide. Axial balls are 0.274" and 0.246". There is also the flanged on both ends, flanged on one end and the offset of the ball center from the ends of the steel piece to consider.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps0bjuikh2.jpg


Pics of measuring where to drill the frame holes for swaybar to pass through. The tiny silver dots are the best looking spots when considering all aspects of flex, travel and bar end angles. I want to get the bar back as far as possible to keep the links vertical at ride height if possible, this is not possible with my setup, so I'm going for best for my setup. End links in the pics are 40mm eye to eye, I'm going to try some 35mm, seems they will provide best geometry overall. That dot is 6mm straight down from top of frame rail, and 17mm back from center of factory hole in frame. Red mark was my initial guesstimate before all the measuring and flex testing while holding swaybar and link in position. What do you all think?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psohojmju5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps7xqehlhj.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psdte0wgl3.jpg

Originally Posted by MPG1959 (Post 5788360)

Ok gotcha, will the hot racing sway bar kit work in this setup as well?

Originally Posted by Natedog (Post 5788457)

Yep yep yep. :)

Going through the frame kinda must with K10 cage back mount, with other bodies it helps rear ground clearance a little, also just cleaner and less parts count. My next bar will move rearward about 5mm more through the frame.

Axial Wraith front bar set is much better quality. Axial and HR included bar will all break someday, that and softer bar is why Casey and I both made our own bars utilizing smaller diameter music wire. :)

Originally Posted by Itali83 (Post 5775663)

Thanks Nate! Now I have more work to do. Can't believe I didn't notice the fuel cell could be dropped some. I'm keeping my battery tray floating but I've lowered that 5mm in the front and 10mm in the rear already.
Plus I'm dropping the whole truck with my new braven Ironsides that are on their way.

Ben

Originally Posted by Shinchu (Post 5788709)

Haha just noticed your shop minions!
My furry ascender mascot is nkt allowed in the garage :( i let her in once and she darted underneath my sons corvette. Bad keetah!!! She has since been banished.
I do need some pics with her and the finished truck though. I know, i know, they are never "finished" lol!

Nice work on the swaybar. I do notice a bit of TT on my truck if i am not gentle on the throttle, but it wont have 4 links out back for long ;)

Originally Posted by MPG1959 (Post 5794699)

Any pictures of how you lowered your tray?

Originally Posted by PoorManRC (Post 5797676)

Between you, Been and Cody..... You've REALLY got me jonesing for an Ascender!!!! I've wanted one since day one. In fact, that was the Truck that got me back into RC since I left in '94.
Fortunately, I never drink ANYONE'S Kool-Aid..... I CAN have a Vaterra and an Axial in my stable!!!

All I need is Money. :cry:

AWESOME, innovative Build you've got here!!!