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Old 11-19-2018, 01:36 PM   #1241
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Default Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

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What's the advantage of those new rear upper link mounts?

Along with my other changes it feels more stable and helps reduce TT.


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Ok finally got through the whole thread, lot's of good reading here! My Bronco was built using the k5 Blazer kit and I went through the manual and checked that all the links are correct and all was good except for the one steering link that should've been 30mm instead of 38mm, fixing that corrected my steering. I don't have anything close to the rocks that you climb, mostly trails with rocks and steep loose climbs so my question to you Ascender Guru is this, do think the Wraith sway bar mounted like your K5 is my best bet? It climbs over obstacles great but the TT just kills steep climbs.

Thanks, glad to help! Yes the shorter steering link on WB1 and WB2 is important when using stock steering setup, you won't get full turn in both directions otherwise. Rocks or dirt it still makes a difference, rear swaybar is the easiest (and very effective) way to counteract torque twist. Outboard shocks, RULRs, and Rich's spring limiters all help too.
Shock Setup Tip for reducing Torque Twist
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Old 11-19-2018, 02:14 PM   #1242
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Default Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

Where did you get the new rear upper link mounts from? I don't see them listed as a part on the Vaterra website.
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:51 PM   #1243
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I got them from Rich at Vaterra, they now come standard on the 1972 Chevy Suburban Ascender-S RTR VTR03094 and soon should be available separately.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/1-10-19...ator1_10022018
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Old 11-20-2018, 01:11 AM   #1244
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Hiya Nate!
Have you tried changing the freewheeling setting on your HW1080 ESC yet? I like it when it’s setup to simulate engine braking when you partially let off the throttle, helps control / reduce coasting downhill.

Envious of your rigs man! Super clean and tight! Mine are in a poor state at the mo...
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Old 11-20-2018, 04:55 AM   #1245
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I haven't been able to figure out how the freewheeling setting is different from plain-old drag brake.
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:31 AM   #1246
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Both of my Broncos run the 1080 and I haven't really messed with the settings too much, I think I'll do that tonight after work and report back.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:51 AM   #1247
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Hiya Nate!
Have you tried changing the freewheeling setting on your HW1080 ESC yet? I like it when it’s setup to simulate engine braking when you partially let off the throttle, helps control / reduce coasting downhill.

Envious of your rigs man! Super clean and tight! Mine are in a poor state at the mo...

Hiya Dean, good morning!
I've been planning a sheetrock and paint the garage project, haven't tried that setting yet. Rockhugger and I did play with the settings a lot back when we first got these ESCs, got them working well, but have it on my list to try. Thanks for the reminder, I'll let you know when I try it. I'm also going to try the powdered graphite lube for CVDs and driveshafts.


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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
I haven't been able to figure out how the freewheeling setting is different from plain-old drag brake.

Dean explained it to me, but I kinda forget atm. Correct me if I'm wrong Dean, but as I recall you said it's similar to drag brake setting, but smoother and less abrupt braking when letting off the throttle.


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Both of my Broncos run the 1080 and I haven't really messed with the settings too much, I think I'll do that tonight after work and report back.

Great ESC, I still need to buy one more for the Va'Blazer, programming box is super easy to use and fits in a coat pocket or pack.

Last edited by Natedog; 11-20-2018 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 11-20-2018, 01:58 PM   #1248
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I didnít even understand this was a thing from the instructions. Iíve got two of these escís so Iím very interested too.

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Old 11-20-2018, 02:12 PM   #1249
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From what I can tell, the freewheeling setting seems to work by creating drag on the motor when you lift off the throttle partially, for example going from 100% throttle to 20% throttle. In this example the esc will apply drag brake and drive the motor speed down to 20% and try and hold it there, without it activated the truck will just coast or ‘freewheel’ along, maybe even speed up and runaway on a downhilll.

The freewheeling setting makes no difference to your normal drag brake operation when you hit 0% throttle. I think it makes it possible to stop a little smoother by gently rolling off the throttle, with simulated engine braking slowing you down, then go to 0% and hit the drag brake to stop.
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Old 11-20-2018, 02:33 PM   #1250
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I experimented with it just on the garage floor, with it deactivated, drive at 100% then suddenly lift off to 5% or whatever without going to 0% and hitting the drag brake. Do it 10 times and get a feel for it.
Now activate the freewheeling function and repeat above exercise, you will notice the truck nose dive and maybe even torque twist a little as the simulated engine braking kicks in and pulls the speed down.

I like it, and after a while have automatically changed my driving style by rolling off the throttle smoothly then stopping, I don’t even think about it.

The lack of engine braking and amount of freewheeling and coasting was really evident after driving your K10 Nate, and so different to mine. I would approach a downhill section, roll off the throttle a bit, oh no! It’s no slowing down! Now it’s coasting downhill and accelerating!!! Do I lift off and hit the brakes and risk a tumble with someone else’s rig or do I try and ride it out to the bottom!!!!!
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:15 PM   #1251
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I tried the freewheeling mode and I kinda like it, it will take a little time to get used to it though but it's cool!
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:32 PM   #1252
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Interesting. So I guess it works more like engine-braking in that respect. Does the freewheel-braking force change when you alter the drag-brake setting? Does it even feel like it needs to be adjustable?
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:59 AM   #1253
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I don't know if it's adjustable, or works in proportion to your normal drag brake setting. My drag brake is cranked right up, and the freewheeling engine braking effect is pretty noticeable, so maybe it's relative...
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Old 11-23-2018, 06:43 AM   #1254
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I would test it myself, but I'm lazy and I want someone else to test it for me. Also I have a 1 month old infant and I'm so goddamn tired.
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Old 11-23-2018, 08:47 AM   #1255
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Freewheeling option set on all of mine - it said “crawling option” so I was in from the get-go.
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Old 11-23-2018, 09:44 AM   #1256
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I have a 1 month old infant and I'm so tired.
Congratulations on the new baby! There's nothing better than being a dad!!!

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Old 11-26-2018, 08:08 PM   #1257
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Hey Nate I've read about you using this stuff, is this it?
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:25 PM   #1258
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That’s the amazing E6000, good stuff!
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:27 PM   #1259
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Thatís the amazing E6000, good stuff!
Awesome, just stumbled across it at the dollar store lol
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Old 12-12-2018, 06:21 AM   #1260
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Helpers cleaning up shop.




How she sits now, got spare tire glued up after scraping chrome off the rim for the beads to CA, would be nice if Horizon put the little masking tape over the bead area like Traxxas does, so that there's less chrome scraping to do. Note the rear swaybar connected and sitting underneath. I outboarded the rear upper shock mounts with 5mm Axial green aluminum spacers, those spacers are super handy, I've bought several different lengths just to have around for such needs. Measured and the rear lower mounts are 10mm outboard by just moving them to the outside of axle mounts. Outbaording the upper mounts gives little more room for sway bar ends and links, plus fights TT. Next is lower swaybar link and then the lower link in stock position. I was going to use Ascender end links for swaybar because they are so beefy, but space is tight and so I'm testing with Traxxas Big Bore lower shock ends, then maybe Axial shock ends. Vaterra plastic is best, then Traxxas, with Axial plastic the least durable, but should be ok for swaybar. The shorter plastic end links help reduce interference between the links and shocks lower spring seat. Traxxas steel end link balls come in several different widths, I used calipers to measure the ones that I have on hand (0.249", 0.273", and 0.315". I've settled on the narrowest (0.249") since they provide enough flex travel without binding. Ascender ballss are 0.275" wide. Axial balls are 0.274" and 0.246". There is also the flanged on both ends, flanged on one end and the offset of the ball center from the ends of the steel piece to consider.




Pics of measuring where to drill the frame holes for swaybar to pass through. The tiny silver dots are the best looking spots when considering all aspects of flex, travel and bar end angles. I want to get the bar back as far as possible to keep the links vertical at ride height if possible, this is not possible with my setup, so I'm going for best for my setup. End links in the pics are 40mm eye to eye, I'm going to try some 35mm, seems they will provide best geometry overall. That dot is 6mm straight down from top of frame rail, and 17mm back from center of factory hole in frame. Red mark was my initial guesstimate before all the measuring and flex testing while holding swaybar and link in position. What do you all think?





how long of a button screws did you use in order to outboard the shock mount in the lower portion and same question for the upper portion of the shock mount with the added spacer? they are m2.5 right?
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