Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Natedog]

Helpers cleaning up shop.




How she sits now, got spare tire glued up after scraping chrome off the rim for the beads to CA, would be nice if Horizon put the little masking tape over the bead area like some manufacturers do, so that there's less chrome scraping to do. Note the rear swaybar connected and sitting underneath. I outboarded the rear upper shock mounts with 5mm Axial green aluminum spacers, those spacers are super handy, I've bought several different lengths just to have around for such needs. Measured and the rear lower mounts are 10mm outboard by just moving them to the outside of axle mounts. Outbaording the upper mounts gives little more room for sway bar ends and links, plus fights TT. Next is lower swaybar link and then the lower link in stock position. I was going to use Ascender end links for swaybar because they are so beefy, but space is tight and so I'm testing with other lower shock ends, and Axial shock ends. Vaterra plastic is best and should be great for swaybar. The shorter plastic end links help reduce interference between the links and shocks lower spring seat. Steel end link balls come in several different widths, I used calipers to measure the ones that I have on hand (0.249", 0.273", and 0.315". I've settled on the narrowest (0.249") since they provide enough flex travel without binding. Ascender ballss are 0.275" wide. Axial balls are 0.274" and 0.246". There is also the flanged on both ends, flanged on one end and the offset of the ball center from the ends of the steel piece to consider.




Pics of measuring where to drill the frame holes for swaybar to pass through. The tiny silver dots are the best looking spots when considering all aspects of flex, travel and bar end angles. I want to get the bar back as far as possible to keep the links vertical at ride height if possible, this is not possible with my setup, so I'm going for best for my setup. End links in the pics are 40mm eye to eye, I'm going to try some 35mm, seems they will provide best geometry overall. That dot is 6mm straight down from top of frame rail, and 17mm back from center of factory hole in frame. Red mark was my initial guesstimate before all the measuring and flex testing while holding swaybar and link in position. What do you all think?

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by M1tch

I put the GCM upper link mount on mine.Not had a run yet, but should be out tomorrow if the rain stops. Still no sway bar as the budget and time wouldn't allow it. Sometime soon will try limiting the front shocks and also set the rear shocks outboard.

Odd that the stock mount should bend like that, and the newer version looks different.

Looking forward to your input too, and a break in the rain so you can get out and have a bit of fun and relaxation. We'll take some of that rain please, so hot and dry here. What swaybar are you considering? Limiting shocks really helps for my terrain. Outboard should help TT.

Yes, odd indeed guess we'll find out what is really going on by keeping track and comparing notes with each other.

[M1tch]

"M1tch posts some rain".


I got the GCM mount as I wanted to try their pinion input shafts. They fit perfectly and I can use the Junfac driveshafts as I found the MIP shafts would hang up on rocks due the the size of the cv outer. The mount gives different geometry and just need to remove 12mm spacers from the upper links, so easy to install.

Will let you know how it goes.

I don't have a sway bar yet. It would be interesting to see how yours works. Difficult to work out the geometry for it I guess.

[Yeti.stealth]

I will measure my swaybar holes today Natedog and let you know. My bar only just clears the upper links on full compression even with the shock rubber bump stops removed,edit it just touches bar on full compression. and a bit more clearance in full flex situations.
I won't ever be able to run rear upper link risers though.
I used the offset type ball ends from the swaybar kit for the lower swaybar link to help clear the shocks, it's still all minimum clearance but it works.

I had a close look at the rear upper link mounts and I don't believe my older more upright mount is bent, it sure does look nice and straight. If I bend it back against the diff housing it starts to look slightly bent and will spring back to its upright position.
Anyway, the upright mount holds the pinion angle just right on our lowered rigs.

[Yeti.stealth]

Natedog, I drilled 15mm from centre of existing hole.

[Yeti.stealth]

And 4.7 mm from top of rail

[Yeti.stealth]

[Yeti.stealth]

Axial offset lower ball end, comes with the sway bar kit, and shocks out boarded at the bottom.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Yeti.stealth

Natedog, I drilled 15mm from centre of existing hole.

Originally Posted by Yeti.stealth

And 4.7 mm from top of rail

Thank you sir, I'll mock up and see how this setup works for me and post back here.

[fyrstormer]

Specs on the bike?

[Natedog]

Wabi Cycles Classic set up fixed gear with flipflop rear hub. Love my rigid SS MTB, so only made sense to get SS roadbike, I considered building and after extensive search, much reading and a phone call to Wabi I bought one...love it! You can spend much more, but the build spec, geometry, ride and customer service of Wabi is excellent. Weight is low and it's a fast ride.

Quality road and fixed gear bikes and products

[Natedog]

Anybody with Ascender Bronco can measure length of front bumper mount?

Edit: flexed and steered front axle all around and look like 1/4" is maximum trim and still have tiny room for tires not to rub.

[northern hooligan]

Nate and Yeti,

While you have outboarded the bottom of the rear shock, did either of you "add" a spacer to the top of the shock?

Is the shock at a straight "|" or "\" angle. I had the retired yellow Ascender at a bit of "\", but added a spacer so the shock springs would not rub on the shock body.

[Natedog]

Initially I only did the bottom shock mount and it worked nicely, but then I added 5mm to tops, they're still at an angle /\ but at full flex go slightly past perpendicular to the axle housing. Seems they should be more effective against TT with little more angle, less spacers up top. I haven't driven it yet to know for sure.

[northern hooligan]

Bil has his rig set up like that as well "/\" and it works.

[Yeti.stealth]

No spacer at the top on mine either, seems fine without it.

[fyrstormer]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Wabi Cycles Classic set up fixed gear with flipflop rear hub. Love my rigid SS MTB, so only made sense to get SS roadbike, I considered building and after extensive search, much reading and a phone call to Wabi I bought one...love it! You can spend much more, but the build spec, geometry, ride and customer service of Wabi is excellent. Weight is low and it's a fast ride.

Quality road and fixed gear bikes and products

I could never ride single-speed, but where I live there isn't a level surface to be found. Also I like the mechanical feel of shifting gears.

Do you have an emergency hand-brake on your fixie in case the chain breaks or you lose your footing on the pedals?

[Natedog]

Single speed is a compromise, almost never in the proper gear, gear as needed, brake as little as possible, pick the perfect line, crank it on uphill before you must, and no shame in walking. I have ridden places on SS that I won't do again, it was pushing myself more than I should have on constant steep up and down. I have front and rear brakes because when ya need to stop sometimes you really need to stop.

Edit: I'm currently agonizing over where to drill swaybar holes. Looking like 17mm back from the factory hole and 5mm from top of frame rail. Added 3mm spacer at bottom of outboard rear shocks.

[Jeepiac]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Single speed is a compromise, almost never in the proper gear, gear as needed, brake as little as possible, pick the perfect line, crank it on uphill before you must, and no shame in walking. I have ridden places on SS that I won't do again, it was pushing myself more than I should have on constant steep up and down. I have front and rear brakes because when ya need to stop sometimes you really need to stop.

This is not in the proper section! That's my impersonation of one of the mods.
I think there's an E and a P in his name

[fyrstormer]

Smart man. Every vehicle should have at least two brakes; it's the second most important piece of equipment besides the tires.