I bought a blazer kit....

[rag6]

They got here today just as I was going to the hospital for a 15mm kidney stone. Not real thrilled with what I'm gonna have to go thru in the next few days, so probably won't put them on for a while, but these are a thing of beauty Ernie.... and they will fit the blazer

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by rag6

They got here today just as I was going to the hospital for a 15mm kidney stone. Not real thrilled with what I'm gonna have to go thru in the next few days, so probably won't put them on for a while, but these are a thing of beauty Ernie.... and they will fit the blazer

Oh man Rich!!!! Good luck, I've pass Kidney stones twice and it was the single most miserable thing I have had to go through beside my cancer surgeries! I have a friend that compared it to trying to pass a Velcro basket ball through a garden hose.
Take care of yourself and we will all be thinking about you. And good to hear they fit and you like them!
Ernie

[Natedog]

OMG, get well ASAP! I know couple peeps who had kidney stones and it's no fun, but at least you have some sweet sliders to look forward to installing.

[rag6]

Getting back into the swing of things... started dismantling most of the suspension to put the sliders on, relocate the rear links, outboard the rear shocks,and come up with a battery mount solution. Messed with it for about an hour tonight. But need to know, when outboarding, do I leave the rear links in the stock axle mount location, and just put the spacers where the shocks were? I'm using revo steering balls for the lower shock mount. I'm using a 40mm screw, and it's just a hair too long to look perfect, but will work just fine. Those revo steering balls are about 2x as wide as a standard Traxxas shock ball end. Should give me plenty of outbording....

[Natedog]

Mine has lower links in stock location, use ball ends for spacers where shocks were, then shocks outboard. I've seen the lower links moved out to where shocks were and spacers inboard, it works and seems to help TT even more. It puts link balls at max deflection travel, I used X-acto knife and Dremel to slightly open up skid plate link pockets to free up link movement.

[rag6]

Well I tried with the out boarded lower links, the clearanced skid pockets, and the link risers... without the shocks, the twist articulation seemed limited. When I moved the links inboard I picked up a few degrees of twist. I can see why you want to take the limiters out of your shocks Nate....

Gotta put my front end back together, and gonna try to figure out how to or if i can, keep the stock battery mount in stock location. Might be solid mounted to the frame. I built the interior around the stupid thing haha.

Very good news... my interior will fit with the link risers. Must clearance 3 areas of the syrene . Easy peazy on that one.

[rag6]

Pic of my battery mount solution





Outboard mount




And risersliders





Sorry about the crappy pics

[rag6]

Got it back together. If anyone wants to use my idea to retain the stock battery tray setup, the new mount location places the battery tray a few mm rearward. It still does not interfere with the motor, but it's tight.I put a spacer on the axle to battery tray linkage to make up the difference, and make sure the suspension flowed free.

[Natedog]

Yes, outboarded shocks definitely loses some flex, so take out some of the internal limiters. Either way, I wanted little more travel on my K10.

Nice how the Vaterra aluminum battery tray pivots (or the cut up plastic bits like you used) can be flipped forwards or backwards like that. IIRC that will move the tray 2mm rearward.

[rag6]

Yes, I'm so happy to keep the stock battery system. And my interior too.

[rag6]

So I got to thinkin....



And lowered the front battery mount about 10mm. Above is at full extension (haven't taken shock limiters out yet) and below is at full compression....



I don't really se a way to lower the rear, the drive shaft is close and stays right with the tray though the travel. I also have 80% of the trucks screws swapped over to 2.5mm he heads. I hate 2mm hex heads lol

[Natedog]

Pictures missing. To lower the rear, cut out some webbing underneath in the middle for the driveshaft. If it needs reinforcements bolt in a brass plate meatstick like Jatotheripper did.

[rag6]

Yea sorry I forgot pics. Just basically a plastic hoop (not sure where i got it or what it was from) screwed into the bottom of the battery tray that slides over a link spacer screwed into the axle where the old linkage was. I notched the cross member on bottom of battery tray for the upper link to clear it on the right side so the tray was only leaning on the pumpkin, not the link. I'll look into lowering the rear of the tray, but the universal area is so close now to the bottom of the tray, not sure how much I can lower it. Not much webbing there to shave. I'll take pics next time I pull it apart. One thing that is cool about it, take the 2 rear screws out of the tray, and the hoop slides off of the spacer, and the tray pulls right out, battery and all....

[Natedog]

Wow, neat trick, I like it!

[rag6]

Target stance






Under carriage (needs trimed up)

[rag6]

.................,,..

[rag6]

2 quick little vids. I actually found some rocks near the Pittsburgh zoo... now I need to learn how to drive on said rocks haha:
https://youtu.be/9BGpbw1U8WI
https://youtu.be/GnKjQ0pvDqE
I'll try to get a better vid after I get more of the truck together....

Got a set of hyrax mounted. Gonna pick up the proline dual stage foams for tyem.
Got my trx4 fender flares, gotta go to lhs to pick up some hardware. Looks to be a pretty easy install. They will need trimmed a bit, I'm gonna drill out the dummy holes and put screws through them so they are all the same. Not sure how I will secure the screws to the back of fender yet...
Still have a ton of work to do on interior, but got the cloth headliner in and figured out the cloth dash and door panel peices. Also started some interior paint too. Gonna be a dirty blackwashed blue over flat black with silver accents.
Welp, that's all for now

[rag6]

So.... I need to widen my track.... I assume I can get wider hubs for my ssd scale trail beadlocks. I need to widen about 1/4" at each corner (total 1/2" wider). What size and type hubs do I need to do this?

[rag6]

Little mock up