Steering issue

[Prdmetalworks]

I just purchased a K10 & a Bronco Ascender. I have been in the hobby for about 25 years & have had a couple crawlers here & there, but I'm basically just a racer & don't run too much off the track.
My son wanted something waterproof to bash around with & do some crawling up at our camp, so he asked for a K10 Ascender & while doing a little research on them I saw the Bronco & figured I had to have one too, so here we are!

Both of these trucks are RTR's, the K10 steering works great, but the Bronco, not so much. It turns great to the right, and has the turning radius of a school bus to the left. I tried to re center the servo, as well as swap servo's with the K10. There is zero binding, but I'm stumped?

It's completely stock, but I did bind an older dx3r rather than use the radio that was included, but have already checked my endpoints & there is no issue there either? Any input would be appreciated.

[Prdmetalworks]

I sort of found a band aid fix by cranking my steering travel up to 150% & can now get full swing in both directions. I planned on running it for a bit before I start with the mods, but after 5 minutes it's pretty apparent that the stock servo might be fine for cruising trails, but it could use quite a bit more torque for crawling.
I'm not really into the scale end of things as much as capability of this truck, so I guess it's time to start ordering some parts!


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[goldcrow]

Had that same issue with my K5 RTR. Right turns fine, left turns like poo. Just swapped the stock servo for a Savox sw0231mg and a HeyOK BEC. Might as well be your first upgrade.

[rag6]

Savox 0231 is a great choice. Before purchasing a servo, I seen a thread here that described adjusting the stock radio to get full throw in both directions... Lm see if I can find it

[Prdmetalworks]

Ordered some goodies this morning including a servo, aluminum servo horn, shock mounts, skid plate / link mounts, chubs, knuckles, rear hubs, shocks & some bead locks.
Still looking at tires, but I'm not sure what to get?
I know I want something really soft with a deep lug that would be a good all around tire for not only rocks, but mud as well.
Any input would be appreciated so I don't end up buying 10 sets before figuring out what works for my application.
My next upgrade has to be weighting the axles somehow. My sons K10 is noticeably more stable on up / down hills than my shorter wheelbase Bronco.
I'm not so much worried about scale appearance as I am capability, so I'm also considering extending the wheelbase & upgrading to MIP shafts in the process.
Anyways, me and my son are having fun with these trucks & I'm enjoying reading all the build threads. Have a good day guys!


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[CODYBOY]

[QUOTE=Prdmetalworks;5602325]Ordered some goodies this morning including a servo, aluminum servo horn, shock mounts, skid plate / link mounts, chubs, knuckles, rear hubs, shocks & some bead locks.
Still looking at tires, but I'm not sure what to get?
I know I want something really soft with a deep lug that would be a good all around tire for not only rocks, but mud as well.
Any input would be appreciated so I don't end up buying 10 sets before figuring out what works for my application.
My next upgrade has to be weighting the axles somehow. My sons K10 is noticeably more stable on up / down hills than my shorter wheelbase Bronco.
I'm not so much worried about scale appearance as I am capability, so I'm also considering extending the wheelbase & upgrading to MIP shafts in the process.
Anyways, me and my son are having fun with these trucks & I'm enjoying reading all the build threads. Have a good day guys!


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I really like my KLR golds, Team Ottsix Racing 1.9 Voodoo KLR Tire - Gold Compound (2)

I make weighted front and rear ascender axles, check them out in my build threads. There are quite a few builds on here with them!
Ernie

[Hobbezco]

Originally Posted by Prdmetalworks

Still looking at tires, but I'm not sure what to get?
I know I want something really soft with a deep lug that would be a good all around tire for not only rocks, but mud as well.
Any input would be appreciated so I don't end up buying 10 sets before figuring out what works for my application.
My next upgrade has to be weighting the axles somehow. My sons K10 is noticeably more stable on up / down hills than my shorter wheelbase Bronco.

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I purchased both the new Pitbull Rock Beast XLs and the new Proline Hyrax and have been going back and forth for a couple months now. For straight up rocks, the RBXLs cannot be beat, but I have found a definite new love in the Hyrax tire for an all around trail tire. Nice and soft, with deep open lugs that clean out well, and they work almost as well on Northeastern rock as the RBXLs do.

As for the axle weights, you can't beat Codyboy's axles. I have several sets and they are absolutely top notch. You wont believe the performance gains.

[Prdmetalworks]

I'll give the Hyrax's a try & sent a PM to Codyboy. Thanks for the recommendation

[pete959]

I have wasted alot of money trying stuff. I am a klr guy the proline swampers xls r nice also. If u r going for performance then defenatly do the codyboy axles night and day diff and he makes some bad sliders for the k10. I also did the ssd links

LIFE IS GOOD

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Prdmetalworks

I'll give the Hyrax's a try & sent a PM to Codyboy. Thanks for the recommendation

Hey Prdmetalworks, You mentioned that you sent a PM, For some reason I didn't get it.
Ernie

[Prdmetalworks]

Just tried it again, hopefully it works this time?

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Prdmetalworks

Just tried it again, hopefully it works this time?

Got it, hope we can work something out!(the price I gave you is shipped).
Ernie

[Prdmetalworks]

Thanks a lot Ernie, just replied to your PM & I appreciate the quick response!

[Yeti.stealth]

Originally Posted by rag6

Savox 0231 is a great choice. Before purchasing a servo, I seen a thread here that described adjusting the stock radio to get full throw in both directions... Lm see if I can find it

Hi,
I just updated the info you are looking for in another thread.

New Ascender RTR out of the box checklist

[Prdmetalworks]

I've already disassembled & assembled both trucks & their pretty decent now.
I did read through that checklist thread & have covered all the bases.

One question I did have for you guys that have been into these Ascenders for a bit now......
Like I've said before, I like the scale look of my Bronco, but I'll give up some scale looks for more capability, so right now I'm leaning toward doing a little body trimming & extending the wheelbase to the longest setting.
I don't have much of a manual for either truck as they were both rtr's, but am I correct in thinking the only thing I need is to add the 12mm spacers on all the links?
Will I need longer threaded rods to add these spacers?

Anyways, I have a lot of parts on the way that I've already mentioned, but I placed another order yesterday for some Proline Hyrax tires, aluminum diff covers, steel beadlocks, MIP driveshafts & an esc tray for a Tekin upgrade in the future.
I'll hopefully get my axle housings ordered from Codyboy this weekend & then I'll be good for a bit.
I'm playing with the idea of machining some complete axle housings out of stainless steel, but that will be a mid winter project when work slows down a bit.

A new body may be in my future as well if the Bronco needs to be hacked up so much that it looks crappy?
We'll see as soon as I get this thing stretched out I guess?

[Yeti.stealth]

Yes you will need longer threaded rods to add the spacers.

On the vaterra website in the manual section, you can find exploded views for the different ascenders, lotsa good info in those exploded views with part numbers etc.

[Sepulveda87]

i have a question about servo horns, my upper steering link hits the servo horn before i hit full compression when crawling, i have a savox 1210wp with a 25t double clamp style horn. any suggestions?

[Prdmetalworks]

I haven't tried it out yet (I'm sure someone has), but I plan to try and get a little more clearance by mounting the servo on the top side of the mounts instead of the bottom. You'll probably have to adjust your drag link length with a small spacer & I'm not sure how it will affect bump steer, but I do plan to play with this setup a little later today.

I'll report back after I try it out, but in the mean time, if one of you guys have tried this and can confirm that this will or will not work, you can save me some screwing around!

I did get all the aluminum goodies installed, as well as the new servo. With the little bit of testing I was able to do, I'm pretty happy with my steering now & will probably get my son the same servo for his K10.

A couple days ago I went to finalize the last order I was working on & just before checkout, the MIP shafts went out of stock. I started to look at other vendors as I wanted to get everything coming from one place (OCD), and couldn't really make that happen. Went back to EBay to look around a little & found a pretty good deal that I couldn't pass up on tires & wheels.

I didn't get the Hyrax's that I planned on trying out, but for what I payed for both tires & alloy wheels, if the tires end up sucking, it won't break my heart. I also got the link spacer's, 30mm threaded rods & alloy diff covers coming.
With the NY weather being what it is right now, I'm stuck wheeling on a mound of 50 pound bags of rice coal in my house, so I'm currently having more fun building than driving my truck! My son on the other hand has been having fun bombing around in the snow every day with his truck.

Codyboy- I haven't forgot about your housings, but like I said, I'm having more fun building than driving right now so I've been working on a program to build my own set of housings. As of right now it looks like I'm just going to duplicate the stock housings for aftermarket part compatibility, but they will be completely CNC machined out of a solid bar of 304 SS & should add a good bit of weight & be pretty bomb proof as well. It will be a fun project when the chips start flying!

[Prdmetalworks]

Finally got a chance to look at the servo placement & after some consideration, I think I'm bailing on relocating the servo to the top of the mounts. The only time my tierod may come in contact with the servo horn is at full bump & honestly, I don't ever see that happening during normal use as the chances of both front shocks being that far compressed at the same time are pretty slim?

If anyone else has some input on this, I'd love to hear how it worked out. I just think it would hurt the suspension geometry more than helping with clearance between the tie rod & servo horn.
I've built quite a few full scale suspensions & at least in full scale, it's always nice to have the drag link & track bar as close to the same angle as possible to minimize bump steer. I'm leaving it alone for now.

Are any of you guys with Bronco bodies running a longer wheelbase? I'm dead set on extending my wheelbase for better performance, but I don't know if I want to hack my body up for clearance or just replace it with a longer wheelbase body?
I kind of forgot that while extending the frame, I'll also be moving my body mounts & I don't really want 2 sets of hole in my Bronco body. Some trimming for tire clearance is 1 thing, as full scale guys do it all the time, but I don't know about having 8 body mounting holes?

[Prdmetalworks]

Also forgot to mention I got a cheap set of aluminum shocks (just because I hate plastic shocks on anything).
The stockers actually worked pretty well & were only a little tweaking away from being perfect, but I just like the look & nice tight tolerances of aluminum shocks.
Anyways, I got some Boom racing Boomarangs & I'm pretty disappointed. There's way too much binding & I just don't think they are worth messing with to try to get them freed up?

So looking for recommendations on a good set of crawler shocks. Any input would be appreciated.