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Old 03-31-2019, 12:28 PM   #621
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Default Re: Yeti.Stealths Ascenders

Loads of likeable posts!

I need to redo my links as well, my steering currently has a stack of irregular diameter washers making it a workable length...
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Old 04-01-2019, 04:58 AM   #622
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Default Re: Yeti.Stealths Ascenders

How do you like those redcat stock tires? I have them on my Wrender and they're probably the best tires I have tried. The foams are terrible but the tires are very sticky.

Blazer looks good. I bet your son likes the longer wheel base.

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Old 04-01-2019, 04:17 PM   #623
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The tires seem good so far, I didn’t drive it much myself but I have seen others using them with great results.
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Old 04-04-2019, 10:49 PM   #624
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I dont think proline had the Ascender chassis in mind with the 66 Chev body, it’s almost drops straight on, but sits a little rearward, wheels not quite centred in arches.

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The rear will be easy enough to fix, just gunna add a few mm of spacers to rear links.

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I guess I can cut a few mm off the front links too.

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Here’s what preventing me from mounting the body a bit more forward. Rear shock mounts and body post as far rearward as I can get, not quite enough!

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Old 04-04-2019, 11:02 PM   #625
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Just can’t get the body to sit any further forward than this.

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Proline classic interior fits well, with the body as low as possible it still clears the spurgear cover.

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Luckily the classic interior is long enough to reach the front body posts.

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Kinda bummed that it didn’t just drop straight on, I was keen on the thought of quickly and easily swapping between this body and the Blazer, but if I chop the links to suit this body it’s not gunna be a good fit with the Blazer...

The other option is to just cut the wheel arches out a bit more....
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Old 04-05-2019, 03:32 AM   #626
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Would it be possible to use the rear body/cage mounts that the truggy cage drop into? That box section in the bed seems to be so odd looking.
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Old 04-05-2019, 12:28 PM   #627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1tch View Post
Would it be possible to use the rear body/cage mounts that the truggy cage drop into? That box section in the bed seems to be so odd looking.
and maybe a drop bed?
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Old 04-05-2019, 02:26 PM   #628
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Good thinking M1tch! I like that idea, and it will stiffen the rear bed up too, it's pretty flimsy all hanging out the back there. Will be pretty solid if I can bolt it to a cut down rear cage.

What is driving me to center the wheels in the arches is to avoid tyre rub, and at the same time have the body as low as possible.

While looking at it and tinkering I remembered that I had removed the shock bump stops to increase up travel, this was done to help get the best performance out of the Bronco by lowering everything. If I put the bump stops back in most of the tyre rub will be gone. I will only need minimal lexan trimming after that.

Drilled the body post holes already so I'm kinda stuck with it now, wish I had of thought of using a cut down rear cage to mount it, I still would of had to cut the body post mounts off the rear shock mount the move the body forward that little bit more, then no swapping to Blazer body after that.
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Old 04-05-2019, 02:29 PM   #629
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No drop bed for now Nate, but I do have all the twin hammers cantilever suspension parts to do it.
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Old 04-05-2019, 02:58 PM   #630
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Could you just fill the holes you have drilled already? Maybe put a fake toolbox over or something.
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Old 04-05-2019, 04:40 PM   #631
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Default Re: Yeti.Stealths Ascenders

Quote:
Originally Posted by M1tch View Post
Could you just fill the holes you have drilled already? Maybe put a fake toolbox over or something.


Vinyl tonneau cover, secured with Velcro?

Maybe not ideal for the abuse this rig will probably see. Just thinking out loud.


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Old 04-05-2019, 06:51 PM   #632
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Originally Posted by Yeti.stealth View Post
Drilled the body post holes already so I'm kinda stuck with it now, wish I had of thought of using a cut down rear cage to mount it, I still would of had to cut the body post mounts off the rear shock mount the move the body forward that little bit more, then no swapping to Blazer body after that.
Scrap lexan and E6000 will fix the holes, then outside paint. Most any post type body mounts cut to length attached to bed (E6000 and no holes?) then attach to rear frame crossmember mounts with small clips ala K10.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti.stealth View Post
No drop bed for now Nate, but I do have all the twin hammers cantilever suspension parts to do it.
OK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkj__ View Post
Vinyl tonneau cover, secured with Velcro?

Maybe not ideal for the abuse this rig will probably see.
Black pebble finish kydex plastic like my TRX-4 Defender pickup mod job, glued to bed and you can use tiny screws to look like snaps or just glue it with E6000, mine is so solid with the drywall mesh tape at joints underneath that I removed the tiny screws to lose a tiny bit more weight off the body!
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:13 AM   #633
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Finished my sons Chevy pickup body today, haven’t done a thing about adjusting the links to suit the wheel arches. Will do that soon.

He picked the cobalt green colour, looks good in real life, pics don’t do it justice. We just did the standard paint on the inside thing.

Worst ever masking job, paint seeped under tape edges....grrrr! It’s only a crawler body!

He was keen to sticker it up a bit too, and still wants bed liner in the bed.

Got some ideas from the forum for the white stripe on the interior seat, cut up a hunger games action figure as a driver. The rest of interior painted Caterpiller interior brown.

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Old 04-14-2019, 03:16 AM   #634
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:29 AM   #635
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A couple pics of the proline classic interior. Silver floor, white stripe on seat, big steering wheel, export right hand drive model too!

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He’s already filling it up with junk!

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Old 04-14-2019, 04:01 AM   #636
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Very nice indeed. Looks almost too good to scratch lol.
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:24 AM   #637
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Yeah so shiny! When you finally peel that protective film off the outside!
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Old 04-14-2019, 11:03 AM   #638
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Looks great, nice color choices too!
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:24 PM   #639
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We used redback racing PC paints, same part numbers and colours as Tamiya PC paints, the cans are a bit bigger and local hobby shop has them for $8 a can if you buy 3 or more.

The cobalt green colour doesn’t show to well in pictures, much nicer in real life. Got a family member who can make custom waterslide or vinyl decals like the 71 number on my K10. We will be making some retro style custom towing and wrecking decals for it soon.
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Old 04-15-2019, 10:26 PM   #640
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Another kick-ass Ascender from down under!

Classy...
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