I'm Back :)

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Minirider82

I have 2 ascenders one with tekin brushless power and a 2 speed trans with 2.2 iroks and one with a tekin brushed motor and 2.2 tsl XLs. cant keep a rear pinion or rear axle housing in either one. Haven't driven either one in about a year. Im getting back around to driving them. going to start by adjusting some things how I see fit (primarily throttle control LOL!). on my rear end housings I agree with the others on here its actually the bolts themselves snapping off in the housing so I haven't bothered buying the metal upper link mounts because I don't see what they would accomplish in that aspect. I also have seen the complete metal housings offered but haven't wanted to spend 100$ a piece on them (what I do to 1 ascender I have to do to both). As for the yokes I have seen those adapters that convert to a different style drive shaft but have not done enough research to see if that will help me yet or if I will just pain through the 20$ a pop on the weak stock ones. On mine they work good for a few runs and then become slightly worn and the tiny pin just snaps.

Sounds to me like you're over powering those 2.2 tire and stressing a weak spot. Not sure why you want 2.2s. But to each his own.
Ernie

[Minirider82]

Because 1.9s suck! The first rear axle failure on mine was 5 mins after I built it with all rtr speck components my son crashed his rtr ascender into mine at full speed as a joke and it snaped. zip ties held it after that for about 6 months I debated just leaving them on there! lol. my sons is currently broke (now built to those specs I previously gave) and yea I am asking a bit much from the truck because it also had custom made tires chains on those tsl xls lol. Overall thought I would include my troubles regardless if it was before or after it was modified. Its a very solid truck overall. They need to hear the small gripes or they cant get better lol. I would love to continue to run the plastic axles just with more beef (in the right areas) and more gearing options. The HD pinions & driveshafts have been problem free since they updated those even with my mods. The first design wouldn't last for crap in RTR form.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Minirider82

Because 1.9s suck! The first rear axle failure on mine was 5 mins after I built it with all rtr speck components my son crashed his rtr ascender into mine at full speed as a joke and it snaped. zip ties held it after that for about 6 months I debated just leaving them on there! lol. my sons is currently broke (now built to those specs I previously gave) and yea I am asking a bit much from the truck because it also had custom made tires chains on those tsl xls lol. Overall thought I would include my troubles regardless if it was before or after it was modified. Its a very solid truck overall. They need to hear the small gripes or they cant get better lol. I would love to continue to run the plastic axles just with more beef (in the right areas) and more gearing options. The HD pinions & driveshafts have been problem free since they updated those even with my mods. The first design wouldn't last for crap in RTR form.

Take a look at some of my ascender builds, with the axle mods I do has fixed most of your problems.
Ernie

[Shinchu]

With mods like that and abuse like full speed crashes, i think the truck is trying to tell you something...

[Minirider82]

Yea it's telling me continue upgrading! I definitely can't leave anything how it is that's lame!

[Natedog]

Hey Rich,

Lots' of great input from Ascender peeps here!

Integrated upper link mounts on the axle housings would be great, less parts (and hardware), more scale looks, stronger too. Now that my Asenders all have a third bolt through the rear upper link mount, I've been noticing some flex on the front axle upper link mount too.

Shorter shocks was mentioned by a few people here and single springs would be great too, less parts count, no spacer or second spring getting hung up on the threaded shock body that some have had problems with.

I was thinking about tires yesterday and when I had a pair of slightly larger diameter front tires on it really helped the Ascender shine on difficult climbs, pulling the front end up and over. Under-drive axle gears for the rear would achieve same result and help reduce torque twist.

Raising front panhard bar would help stabilize on sidehills and increase side-hill ability. Moving rear suspension links can do the same for the rear of the truck.

Originally Posted by Natedog

1. Torque Twist (TT) has to do with the axle gear ratio, please keep the small axle pumpkin size, optimize suspension link design as much as possible and include a sweet swaybar setup that mounts through the frame in front of the rear axle. Rockhugger, I and a few others have played with link mounts and found there's a sweet spot raising and moving forward the rear upper link mounts at the frame that helps reduce TT. Problem is it tends to cause the rear pinion angle to go over center as the rear end approaches maximum suspension compression. These link risers that bolt outside the frame rails put too much angularity on the ball ends and bind them. Raising links at the axle may help with this, but we've spent a lot of time on it and have too many other commitments to keep playing with the link positions, this requires lots of time tinkering or a great knowledge of suspension design.
Edit: we love the small axle pumpkins, please keep them small!

2. 2-speed is nice option, but doesn't seem very popular among crawlers. I love it built-in on my TRX-4, but on my Ascenders I'm going with 3S (same batteries in TRX4).

3. Stock ratio front axle with under drive rear would be awesome! Overdrive would increase TT, underdrive helps reduce it. Under-drive also increases climbing, steering, and side-hilling, the truck will also track straighter especially on climbs when the front end wants to slide off to either side instead of holding the intended line.

4. Upper link mount (especially the rear) needs a third mounting bolt near the top by the links! I've got some stock plastic link mounts that are permanently bent more upright, the current mount on my Blazer allows so much flex that the rear axle rolls under and is about to tear the link mount off the axle! Several people have broken the two mounting screws that attach this link mount to the axle housing. The aluminum mount is nice, but does not solve the breakage issue without a third mounting screw.
Yeti.Stealth's extra screw through the link mount and axle housing has fixed this, but this should be incorporated into the RTR/kits.

5. I like the driveshafts because it reduces angularity of the end joints and is less parts count. Downside is little more pita to swap out. I've replaced the pins in mine with precision cut (nice square ends and fit so snug the pins kinda snap into place as the bearings that retain them are slid into place over them. Gunnar here on RCC makes these pins and they are a required upgrade imo. Well, looks like he might not make them anymore, but here's a link.
Gunnar CVD pins!

[Pagu]

Hello
I just want to discuss ifs scaler chassis
There are only one ifs scaler on the market - cc-01. It is good but old platform with limitations.
It would be great if you consider ifs variant of ascender in future. With proper ackerman, camber, caster angles, long travel and scale looking independent suspension, frame rails and not too wide for scalers.
Maybe even with irs (hummer h1, land rover discovery 3)

Like the idea:
2-speed tranny kit
kit without body, wheels and tires

If you make axle pinion gear in one piece with output 5mm shaft you will be able to make it smaller and underdrive gearing.

Thanks for attention

[Rock111]

Wow, great info on this thread. Gives me such hope for an Ascender 2.0 and Vaterra resurgence! I have to agree with LSXGMC, Ditchrat and Ascender’nMN84 though, I’m ready to buy another a rig and as much as I love the platform the Ascender isn’t on par with the competition at the same price.

Having said that, this discussion, and others, gives me hope and that’s enough to make me hold off for now awaiting the, hopefully soon, announcement of Ascender 2.0.

ASCENDERS ASSEMBLE!

[skinnyj]

Having just built my Ascender kit, the one gripe I had was trying to install a closed endbell motor after the transmission is on the vehicle. I had to remove the battery tray to get one of the motor lugs underneath it. It would seem that shifting the transmission back 1/8" to 3/16" would fix this. Or changing the orientation of the mounting screws on the motor plate so that the lug doesn't have to squeeze under the tray.

[Shinchu]

Originally Posted by Rock111

ASCENDERS ASSEMBLE!

HAHA YES!!! somebody else said it!

as for skinnyj's issue, i think maybe just forward motor location would solve a LOT.

also, Pagu (lol i know what that means) had a VERY interesting and unique idea...
IFS in a world full of solid axle front scalers?!

I LOVE IT!!!!!

[Rich Trujillo]

HI Guys,
Sorry it's been a while but all great comments and suggestions. Some are practical a lot are not, my fav has to be "that's why you make the big bucks" ...I think my wife would beg the differ LOL

I have lots of ideas and plans but it does take more time than not to make things happen. Unfortunately after i was gone, nothing happened with the Ascender. The F100 release, I did finish it off but it should be noted that it was in action when i completed it. I only say this to keep a proper vision on time to make things happen. Are we working on stuff....Always....will it be out next week...nope, but i'm going to push as hard as i/we can. It truly just takes time as there lots of levers and buttons to push to bring a product to market.

Again, please keep the feedback, comments and suggestions coming.

Thanks,
Rich

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Rich Trujillo

HI Guys,
Sorry it's been a while but all great comments and suggestions. Some are practical a lot are not, my fav has to be "that's why you make the big bucks" ...I think my wife would beg the differ LOL

I have lots of ideas and plans but it does take more time than not to make things happen. Unfortunately after i was gone, nothing happened with the Ascender. The F100 release, I did finish it off but it should be noted that it was in action when i completed it. I only say this to keep a proper vision on time to make things happen. Are we working on stuff....Always....will it be out next week...nope, but i'm going to push as hard as i/we can. It truly just takes time as there lots of levers and buttons to push to bring a product to market.

Again, please keep the feedback, comments and suggestions coming.

Thanks,
Rich

Hang in there Rich, most of us do realize what it takes to do the job you have.
Maybe me more than some because I talk to Scott a lot while I'm up at Lunsford racing. Kelly and Barb are glad to have him with them.
Ernie

[makya]

Originally Posted by Minirider82

I have 2 ascenders one with tekin brushless power and a 2 speed trans with 2.2 iroks and one with a tekin brushed motor and 2.2 tsl XLs. cant keep a rear pinion or rear axle housing in either one. Haven't driven either one in about a year. Im getting back around to driving them. going to start by adjusting some things how I see fit (primarily throttle control LOL!). on my rear end housings I agree with the others on here its actually the bolts themselves snapping off in the housing so I haven't bothered buying the metal upper link mounts because I don't see what they would accomplish in that aspect. I also have seen the complete metal housings offered but haven't wanted to spend 100$ a piece on them (what I do to 1 ascender I have to do to both). As for the yokes I have seen those adapters that convert to a different style drive shaft but have not done enough research to see if that will help me yet or if I will just pain through the 20$ a pop on the weak stock ones. On mine they work good for a few runs and then become slightly worn and the tiny pin just snaps.

is there a way to integrate this with a full 2 speed kit?

Originally Posted by makya

One thing I haven't seen touched on is coming out with a selectable overdrive in the 2 speed, like has been done by a couple of members here with the Twin Hammers. I think it would be an easy sell to the bean counters, since it would work for the TH and the Ascender.

[Blaster 75]

As the guy behind the counter at a busy LHS, I think that an included 2-speed and reduced torque twist are the two big changes I'd make on the 2.0. Also, many of my customers want to replicate their 1:1 truck, so late model pickup bodies would help, too. I don't get any complaints about quality, but almost all of my customers are back within a week looking for more speed and a way to reduce twist. Better working shocks would be nice, too.

Twin Hammers? The current RTR is fine, just fix the goofy steering. Fits it's niche perfectly, and has superb quality.

I'd like to see a rally-spec V100 chassis with raised ride height (would need gull wing arms), gravel spec tires, and a Subaru body. The V100 line sells well and has good quality, although dumping the battery and charger would leave some room for a higher spec/ more speed.

I think that, with Hobbico collapsing, Horizon should emphasize the excellent availability of Losi, Vaterra, and TLR parts, and find a better way of demonstrating the quality and engineering advantages vs. Axial and Traxxas. Horizon has got to advertise. Period. People come in asking for "a Traxxas", not even realizing that other brands exist or offer better product. They refer to premium brands as "off-brands" or copies. That has to change. Traxxas' market share is big enough.

Finally, bring back the Glamis Uno and Fear. Some tweaks here and there, better paint scheme on the Uno, and a $349.99 MAP, and I wouldn't be able to keep them in stock.

[Browneye]

Would love to see a true builders kit , just chassis, no body or wheels or electronics - for a street price of $200. Would buy a couple today.

[Kleebatch]

MY 2 cents,

I quite like the upper link mount as a separated part as it gives me the option to flip the axle upside down if i need by just inverting said mount (like on my last project that will have counter rotating driveshafts), it adds to the rig versatility.

I must confess I'm yet to break one of these mounts, then again i'm a rather cautious driver, looking for more and more difficult challenges but more of a crawler than a basher.

Regards

Claudio

[StomperCrawler]

Hey Rich, thanks for all your hard work on the Ascender! I don't even have one yet but the 2.0 will be my next crawler as I've done a lot of research on the 1.0. Our family has an Ax10 mutt, Scx10 OG Honcho, and Scx10 ii Cherokee. I've been into hobby-grade RC for about 30 years now, and often find myself helping out n00bz on this and other forums, so I hope this collected list of responses to your questions may be helpful:

1. Torque Twist: Ideally adjust the rear upper link geometry, install a removable sway bar, perhaps outboard the shocks and/or include leaf springs? Or to quote New2rocks, "switching to cantilevers with the lower links mounted in the outer position within the lower mount brackets and the cantilever struts mounted outside of the lower mount brackets" and "if you can increase the gear reduction without making the pumpkin larger or impacting durability of the gearset, that would be a huge win." another plus with cantilever shocks would be the ability to run a full bed. Just don't make anything like Traxxas has patented or they'll put Horizon out of business via lawsuits like they're doing to Tower via Arrma.

2. Two-speed: assemble and provide a one-bag add-on kit with detailed instructions so as to avoid adding cost to the initial purchase.

3. Over/under drive: this is for anyone who wants a better turning radius (so basically everyone, especially those who realize that the Scx10 ii has an advantage in this department) and to be able to hold a line while climbing a hill without flipping over backwards (again, everyone); huge difference.

4. Upper Link mount: "(especially the rear) needs a third mounting bolt near the top by the links! I've got some stock plastic link mounts that are permanently bent more upright, the current mount on my Blazer allows so much flex that the rear axle rolls under and is about to tear the link mount off the axle! Several people have broken the two mounting screws that attach this link mount to the axle housing. The aluminum mount is nice, but does not solve the breakage issue without a third mounting screw.*Yeti.Stealth's extra screw through the link mount and axle housing has fixed this, but this should be incorporated into the RTR/kits... so that they don't flex and allow the axle to roll under on hard acceleration. Yeti-Stealth's thread starting about post # 57 in http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=576634" (Natedog). And as Hobbezco said, "The pumpkin needs to be beefier where the mount bolts in" since his clients have had lots of breaks there.

5. Driveshafts: folks who maintain thier vehicles will replace the pins during routine maintenance as they see them wearing (easier if a 2 pack of pins was sold separately - cred 2mtech), but these and others who destroy them every other run on brushless 6s are few and far between. Most peeps just run the stock electronics or similar, never have an issue, and therefore never crack open the axles. That being said, they would last longer using Gunnar's square-ended pins: Gunnar CVD pins!... as Natedog mentioned, since nobody likes to carry their rig home when they're out on the trail with friends (or alone, for that matter) and something breaks.

Additionally:

A. PLEASE make an inexpensive (sub-$200) kit version sans electronics, wheels, tires, and body; this would allow builders like those here on RCC and SBG to "roll their own", thus keeping your biggest fans and best modus of advertising (word of mouth/recommendation) happy.

B. Swap the tiny grub screws that love to either come loose or strip due to the loctite required to hold them in with larger pins that go all the way through. Larger-tool hardware in general would be appreciated, like the Scx10 ii went with.

C. Include HD links rather than soft alloy-minum.

D. To quote Nate again, "Shorter (maybe 10mm less?) shocks was mentioned by a few people here and single springs would be great too, less parts count, no spacer or second spring getting hung up on the threaded shock body that some have had problems with...

E. Raising front panhard bar would help stabilize on sidehills and increase side-hill ability. Moving rear suspension links can do the same for the rear of the truck."

F. Forward motor and center transfer case with changeable over/under-drive gears would be AMAZING!

G. The RTR should include plastic beadlock wheels worth metal rings and countersunk hardware; glue-on plastic wheels belong in the toy bin.

H. More of Natedog's ideas: "550 21T motor included instead of 540 35T motor...

I. Some smaller, more comp oriented bumpers that have internal ribbing laid out in such a way as to me 'trimmable' to different width/height profiles for different bodies. Stock Blazer bumpers are already this way in regards to height, but width-wise too would be great.
See Rockhugger Bumper Mods, starting with post # 737 of Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

J. Replace multi-piece steering tie-rod with single link, move draglink to top of steering knuckle for even less bumpsteer (stock is virtually none) and stronger less flexible steering linkage. Post # 750 and 933 of Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

PS K. Inner fenders on the RTR.

[Shinchu]

i will vouch for the $200-ish slider kit.
i would buy a 2.0 for my next rig EASY if i could get the basics: frame/links/trans skid, maybe with a fwd engine mount and trans with some sort of t-case? ok slider kit just jumped to $300 lol but yes also an option for leafs, even if just the rear.

i'm ok with the axles the way they are. sure they add to the torque twist issue, but there are ways to combat it with better suspension geometry.

and i just want to take a second to say... thank you Rich. thanks for listening to us. keeping an ear open to your customers is the BEST way to keep us coming back (and telling our friends to join in!). thank you for listening.

[svt923]

Does anyone really think losing the body, wheels, and tires is going to cut $120 off the retail price of the Blazer kit or are we just dreaming at this point?

[Browneye]

Originally Posted by AngelowDoom

And please, no portals Richard. Do your own thang, no need to copy the TRX-4, it's just a gimmicky kids truck anyway.

^^This. I have no interest in portal axles either. And I've seen the new TRX crawl next to the old style SCX10, 2, and Ascender, and I don't think it's as good as either, especially with that heavy body.
But it seems some are much more into the scale aspect and askew performance which is fine. We just need an avenue forward for each.

Same with 2-speed. I found 3S more than satisfactory, and if you keep the rig light and moderate tires a bump or two in pinion teeth or a faster motor provides all I could imagine for a crawler. They're not really for go-fast, but trail walking is enjoyable and a little more wheel-speed seems to make a huge difference. At least it did for me. A brushed motor still crawls great, will still just inch along if you want it to.

I have not found torque-twist to be a deal breaker. It's a little annoying, but I get it the other way too under drag-braking with 3s power. I think this would be a lot harder to eliminate verses just talking about it. With left side preload dialed in a bit I only see some TT on hard climbs, otherwise it's almost gone. I would not want bigger pumpkins - they already hang up a lot, but a little better clearance for the drive shaft would help - like a high-pinion or some such.

No thanks for under and over drive gearing either. Or locking diffs. KISS.

Absolutely on the bumper trimming and plastic wheels - I now have those RTR wheels sets piled up gathering dust.

And absolutely yes on more bodies. Lexan bodies, would even be willing to pay more for them or for limited-edition type runs.

I find the feedback here amazing - we have some really sharp crawler types around here that have put some creative thought into it.