Torque twist

[hipkatgreaser]

Hello, I'm still fairly new to the hobby and wanting to learn. My OCD is taken over on the torque twist in the rear of the truck. I have done all the common tricks and mods that have been discussed on here. IE rulr, drilling out pistons on the shocks and filling them with 30wt, outboarding rear shocks, wraith sway bar kit in the rear. I've dropped the body down I forget how many holes on the mounts but I would guess 1/4".
In my head I'm thinking when the twist happens in an off camber situation the power won't be equal and the risk of rolling because of the weight moving to that side. Also a stuck situation because of the weight shift and the other tire won't be in contact to the ground as much as the other side.
My current setup is as follows:
All shocks/ suspension has a 60/40 split of compression/droop. 60% on the compression.
30wt in front shocks, rears are 40wt and all piston are drilled with a #55 bit. The reason of the 40wt in the rear was to slow the shock down. Also limited the shocks internally 6mm.
I installed the rulr I made out of aluminum. It's running down the side of the frame rail not just a mount like some. So I don't have any deflection when suspension is working.
I'm running both codyboy axles and steering setup. With aluminum link braces on both.
Installed wraith front sway bar kit with the softest rod that came in the kit. I mounted it to the rear of the truck with rod ends at the cross member.
Now all this has lessened the twist but it still wants to dip about 1/4". When I let out the throttle the suspension doesn't want to reset it still hangs to the left not much but still leans.
And with all this time on my hands being in a hotel room for last 2 months after I work, I've been tinkering with this truck to keep myself busy. But I think my OCD has taken over, and I'm chasing rainbows.
My question is the amount of twist that is acceptable or has anyone got rid of it totally. I don't have too many guys around me that crawl. And when I not working and home the closest people to crawl with at weekly comps are 1hr away. So I've been doing this by reading a lot on the internet and weeding out some of the b.s.
I can load up a video of what I'm talking about tomorrow when I'm done at work and some pics.



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[lonleycreeper]

I am not as familiar with the assender as I am with the A brand. Tq twist can never be totally eliminated but can be lessened. I consider 1/4" perfectly acceptable but I tend to bounce my rigs over stuff when I dont accomplish the obstical the first time.

Short of changing the link geometry, which can be accomplishd.

Have you installed a swaybar? They work.

A stiffer spring on the rear side that sags. Or maybe a little extra preload on that corner.

[AngelowDoom]

Drive slower is the best tip.

[Ninomaniac]

Let it go, man

[hipkatgreaser]

Pics of truck

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[Itali83]

You've done it all. Only way to eliminate it or lessen it more would be to switch to scx10 axles which have a much lower gear ratio than the ascender. That means less torque is needed to get the wheels turning which means less torque twist on the chassis. But that would but such a step back in performance because of the huge size of the diferential(bigger ring gear = lower gear ratio).

Not to be a dink but get over it. It's a toy, the way you have it set up should walk all over any scx-10 og and most scx10ii's. Mine is set up very similarly to yours and surprises guys i run with regularly.

Ben

[hipkatgreaser]

Originally Posted by Itali83

You've done it all. Only way to eliminate it or lessen it more would be to switch to scx10 axles which have a much lower gear ratio than the ascender. That means less torque is needed to get the wheels turning which means less torque twist on the chassis. But that would but such a step back in performance because of the huge size of the diferential(bigger ring gear = lower gear ratio).

Not to be a dink but get over it. It's a toy, the way you have it set up should walk all over any scx-10 og and most scx10ii's. Mine is set up very similarly to yours and surprises guys i run with regularly.

Ben

Thank you, I run by myself when home or travel 1hr or so away with a group all those guys run custom stuff or axial. They tell me that this is a trail truck, after seeing what you guys can do I don't believe it. It's just hard to judge watching videos or pictures on the net and compare it to my stuff. Also not all that versed in this hobby yet it's hard to be confident in myself just wanna do better and learn more.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Torque twist is an overly inflated issue on the Ascender. Don't let it bother you and it typically won't. Get it in your mind that it affects performance and it will.

My advice - ignore it!

[spaceman5280]

Take the spare tire off the roof....

I was obsessed with TT on my K5 so I did all the tricks and added a heavy sway bar and it reduced TT. Then I focused on performance rather than just the cosmetics of TT and I’m way more satisfied

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[Alexander_0_1]

I went the old fashioned way, I just changed the shocks out for better ones. yup! I used powerstroke slash rears in all 4 corners (might even try powerstroke XTs for bigger tires). To use SCT powerstrokes I had to find hollow balls w/out the flanges (the ones that come with the HPI savage x are perfect) so I could move the shocks closer to the wheels without mounting them outboard of they axle brackets, like so many have done. The new hollow balls prevent the powerstrokes from binding during compression on uneven ground, something I found during testing.

I don’t have a away bar yet, I’m still trying to mount one to my ascender without hanging it below the frame rails, I just don’t like the way that it looks, plus it must get hung up eventually.

I haven’t completely eliminated TT, but I have minimized in greatly. To completely eliminate it I’d have to switch to a motor with less power (it’s just not gonna happen). I use a HolmesHobbies 2000kv outrunner.

Im sure I’ve said it before RULRs don’t fix torque twist, they minimize the suspension squat, and you only really notice that when your on a steep incline, and your watching your rear suspension compress towards the frame rails. Less suspension squat reduces the chances of your ascender tipping end over end, on steep climbs.

[Yeti.stealth]

With everything you have done it should hardly body roll at all!
I found even the softest swaybar like the one you have used was way too hard for my liking.
Looks like only thing you have not done yet is lower and limit shock travel.

Don't worry about the Axial guys, got to the scx10.2 forum and do a search for torque twist or body roll and you will find guys there fitting counter rotating transmissions, sway bars, fooling around with shocks etc trying to reduce it as well. I even remember flipping the trans on the scx10 was a thing too....

Just make sure you front and rear axle assemblies spin freely, pull the drive shafts off the gearbox end and spin a tyre by hand and it should all spin on and on nice and free. No seized bearing or binding gears.

[Browneye]

When I drilled out my shock pistons and put lighter oil in the torque-twist got worse.

Increasing spring preload on the left side seems to have helped when trail running, have not tried it yet on technical climbing. But yeah, it was a lot more than a quarter inch.

I think your chassis setup looks great - way more advanced than what I've waded into. And you'll have no trouble following A's in the rocks.