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![]() | #21 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Im using 48p gears. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #22 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Left or right? What bumper to stop the.. Uh potential rear end damage... ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #23 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,068
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Right. ![]() |
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![]() | #24 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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First t case proto with gears inside. Couple things.. I forgot how tight of a tolerance shapeways is capable of. bearings are a tight fit. should be no shaft play side to side at all. unless a bearing fails. And i forgot how strong it was. Few modifications to shave material off the outside of the cases. And i think the middle t case might get a few tabs attatched to it. I might eliminate the gru from great planes completely. ![]() Last edited by CM9000; 06-02-2018 at 01:46 PM. |
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![]() | #25 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,068
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The tcase looks great!
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![]() | #26 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
| ![]() just a prototype. the next 3 you will see within the next few weeks are slimmed down. i need to get them printed so i can start making shafts. ive thought about ditching the cases entirely and just using plates. but the amount of work.. and for how cheap.. cant beat the 3d printed case.
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![]() | #27 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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New t cases on the bottom. Old example on top. Need to make 7 30mm long 5mm shafts. For brackets ill be using just some angle aluminum. After shaving some material off in tinker cad im able to now put a 3rd t case under the bed if i need to. Going to be getting a 3 brothers rc 1900kv 6pole sensored motor to try out in this rig too. ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #28 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 1,022
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Awesome work with the 3D printing. I’m stuck in the Stone Age rubbing two sticks together making my transmission and transfer cases out of solid blocks of aluminum and a drill press lol. But doing the same thing you are basically. Wish I knew how to do drafting and run a computer. Keep up the good work! Ben |
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![]() | #29 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #30 |
Moderator ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,511
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Looking good! ![]() |
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![]() | #31 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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This is kinda how i want to lay the t cases out in the rig... Well i hate it. Because now i lose my front upper link tuning option. This SUCKS! But wait... Do i really need a upper link with all these trackbar with panhard front end builds???... Looks like i need to redesign my front lower link mounts. Or i could just leaf it.. ![]() ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #32 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,751
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Just throw a radius arm on one side (I've always put the radius arm on the side closest to the diff which helps keep the u-joint pointed at the t-case better than when mounted on the opposite side) and a straight link on the other side. Sure you'll lose tune-ability vs 3 or 4 link, but if you start out with a bit more castor than ideal, and keep the arm/link as long and flat as possible, you probably won't miss it. It will still articulate smoothly (unlike radius arms on both sides) and you'll still maintain consistent suspension cycling and axle location/wrap control (unlike leaf springs.) Obviously you'll still need the trac bar, but it sure is easier to package when you've only got 2 mounting points at the skid.
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![]() | #33 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Im going to try my best to avoid the radius arm method or going leafed. Im going to try and move the front upper link around. I need to the the motor and t case mounted first though. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #34 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Just gonna leave this here... ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #35 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Merrill, WI
Posts: 2,328
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Oh my. Now that is interesting. It took me a little bit to figure out the idea but I see it. So cool. Reminds me of an old machine or truck with all the mechanical goodness without wires everywhere Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk Last edited by mgputer; 08-01-2018 at 09:04 AM. |
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![]() | #36 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Ive got some key stock to cut and tap for the rear most case to brace. Gotta tear down the axles next week for tlr 22 series shafts to go on the pinion gears. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #37 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 1,022
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Very nice. What are you using for your case material and how are you drilling the shaft holes to get good gear mesh? Are they 3D printed or using a drill press? Thanks. Ben |
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![]() | #38 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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3d printed cases. Took very precise measurements. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #39 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 1,022
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![]() | #40 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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My firat prints from shapeways fit really well. They only took me about 10 minutes to design each case. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk | |
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Tags |
1.55, 1.9, axle, narrowed, yota |
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