Slop in the drive line

[elirgraves13]

So one of my few qualms with the ascender is all the play in the drive line. Even with a great drag break setup their is almost an inch of movement in both directions because of play. Has anyone found any tricks on limiting this?

[OSRC]

You might want to check over your drive line. My Ascender has nowhere near that amount of slop. (The 2 speed has the usual amount, but the single speed is very precise.) Definitely check the set screws on the drive shafts, they have a way of working loose.

[Browneye]

Just posted about this in the 'what did you do...' thread - check those cross pins in your CV joints, both ends.
Next is the spools, but I'm not sure there's a tighter option from Lockedup or the like - would have to research that.

But my guess if you're just noticing this it's wear in those pins - I had one almost worn through, would have broken if I hadn't caught it. And they were getting really sloppy.

Instead of buying the whole drivelines or some such from horizon these ARRMA pins work:

[elirgraves13]

I think it is mostly those pins.

[Browneye]

I was just doing some searching and research on those pins, and frankly I think that 1/16 X 1/2" pins would work. Hardened alloy would be the ticket, and if they were a shade long could be ground down to fit flush with the flange of the cup.
I may try to source some - McMaster-Carr has them, 50 are about $10, but they charge a lot of shipping and I really don't need 50 of them. LOL
Anyway, a local industrial supply may even have them in a bin by the each - I will check my local supplier next time I'm in there.

Just a FYI.
In any case, the ARRMA pins do work - I've replaced the ones in my trans output shafts but have not disassembled the diffs yet - I may do that this weekend on my two most-used rigs.
And be sure to blue-locktite those grub-screws as they are famous for backing out and falling out and your driveshaft falls off or quits turning.

I also looked up the Vaterra parts and yeah, you have to buy the whole cup output assembly and they're about $10 each or so. That's spendy for a pin, but then you get new pivot pin and cup too.

I think piano wire would work too - we're looking for .067" diameter.