Vaterra Ascender - attempting shock service

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

I have an Ascender that I am thoroughly enjoying. I have
discovered that my stock shocks are ready for service. I am savvy w/ tools. I have acceptable tools. I am very familiar w/ many types of fasteners & tools for things automotive ,including -now- a little about scale rcs ( thanks in no small part to many of you)- so, w/ that in mind , may I humbly ask you to help a newb understand ..


What on this Earth has got to happen for the upper shock mount- bar Allen-head bolts to be extracted? Do I need to take needle-nose vicegrips w/ some tubing to prevent marring the crossbar but keep it from spinning?!

I have replacement bolts so , if you look you can see I went at it - gently!- w/ the Dremel. Of course, before asking here...derp.

'doesn't matter because two screwdrivers held opposite one another , counter turning ( & I'm not a weakling) STILL did not unfix these two boogers.

Is there a trick I'm missing to get the upper shock bolts out? On my 1:1 scale rockcrawler I'd fireup the torch but ...

Can the dhockbolts up top bend within the crossbar and seize? I do beat mercilessly on the thing but the fronts came out no prob..

Thanks for help or tips on it. I'm pretty sure I'm being a dumb*SS....

[Yeti.stealth]

The bolts must be locktite in? first time I took mine apart I did need to hold the tube to stop it from spinning, but the bolts were not overly tight or hard to get out.

A little heat on tube might help melt the loctite, not too much heat or you will start melting the plastic bits!

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Yeti.stealth

The bolts must be locktite in? first time I took mine apart I did need to hold the tube to stop it from spinning, but the bolts were not overly tight or hard to get out.

A little heat on tube might help melt the loctite, not too much heat or you will start melting the plastic bits!

Must be quite a bit of Loctite as Dean said, use some heat on it. As last resort cut the screw heads off to get it apart and put more heat on the screw pieces leftover, use pliers if you need to. I've loctitied all mine and the allen driver with pliers gently holding aluminum cross member has been plenty to disassemble.

[Mountainman74]

Vice grips on the tube, you can pad them with a rag if you’re worried about scratching it. A solder iron would create sufficient heat to loosen the loctite. Just a little heat at a time to avoid melting the shock mounts as noted earlier.


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[j3ff3ry_j33p]

Thanks y'all. I'll update with results . They musta had a little extra loctite that day 'cause I purportedly have gorrilla grip & I can't even budge these things. I'm fearful of that red box with the Spektrum in it just beneath.

I've noticed something that I suppose you all probably have long known; even the simplest little thing on these scale RCs find it winding-up being a complicated , busy , PITA...mostly beause everything's so tiny & close together!

[cowboyona426]

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p

Thanks y'all. I'll update with results . They musta had a little extra loctite that day 'cause I purportedly have gorrilla grip & I can't even budge these things. I'm fearful of that red box with the Spektrum in it just beneath.

I've noticed something that I suppose you all probably have long known; even the simplest little thing on these scale RCs find it winding-up being a complicated , busy , PITA...mostly beause everything's so tiny & close together!

You could easily pull the receiver out of the box, or move it, until you are done applying heat. A quick blast from a hair dryer or heat gun should be enough to loosen the loctite without damaging the shock mount or other plastic parts.

[Browneye]

When I find a stuck screw I just whip out the bic-click and run the flame under it a couple of times...presto!
But then I'm a master shade-tree monkey.

I've got three of these run hard and never 'rebuilt' the shocks. Just open up and top them up with oil, clean them up. They all leak a little. You can get fancy with slime and x-rings and all manner of machinations to try to get them so they don't seep.

A good time to check those pistons - how many holes of what size. I'm aware of 3 different versions of shock pistons in them. Do the Trujillo mod while you're in there.

[high plains drifter]

Hey, Jeffery! Glad to see you posting over here. Anyway... just wanted to stop by to say hello!

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

Hey, Jeffery! Glad to see you posting over here. Anyway... just wanted to stop by to say hello!

Hey, Anthony!
You always lead me to the right resources,bud.

This place is awesome!

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

So, is it likely that anyone can point me to best place to buy one of those threaded , rear upper shock crossbars for the Ascender pictured? I got one side out and have mauled the other to where it might just be best for me to replace the crossbar. RPP have them or am I uppa creek?

[soze]

Try using a shock plier to grip the crossbar. You could probably use that with minimal marring. I use this one - ProTek RC Shock Pliers

In your case, you might need to remove the receiver box in order to use the shock pliers.

[M1tch]

You need VTR234028 61mm link. Someone on here might have a spare if they are feeling generous or RPP have them in stock. https://www.rpphobby.com/SearchResul...arch=VTR234028

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

Man,
What great suggestions & help. Thanks you guys. From the shock pliers to the part itself this forum is the bomb.

[Yeti.stealth]

Some Ascender parts are on sale here in Australia, including the 61mm links.

https://www.modelflight.com.au/vater...nk-61mm-4.html

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

I had been joking when I sggstd someone got frivolous
w/ the loctite at Vaterra when assembling my rear upper shock mount- crossbar ; if possible to see it , look at the difference between the drvr ( still has button head) bolt & the pssgr side which I had to heat out after snapping the Allen-head off:



...there really was 3x the loctite on that side. FML.

I got new bars coming ( now unnecessary but whatever) and now I can get to the original goal of just
swapping to 15w shockoil , lol

[Browneye]

I just use a hammer.

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

Originally Posted by Browneye

I just use a hammer.

Check; now adding ' hammer' and ' blowtorch' to list of tools needed to replace stock shockoil on Ascenders.

[Browneye]

Did you find a 61mm link? I might have one...3 ascenders and two were kits...
Lemme know...

[rkj__]

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p

...and now I can get to the original goal of just
swapping to 15w shockoil , lol

This is why I hat working on cars, whether they be 1:1 or 1/10.


Any job:
Step 1 remove fastener.


"Cool. That's easy. I'm no pro mechanic, but I can turn a wrench. Even a monkey can do that. I got this."


*turns wrench*


Fastener either does not budge, strips, breaks, disappears, etc.

turns to

[j3ff3ry_j33p]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Did you find a 61mm link? I might have one...3 ascenders and two were kits...
Lemme know...

Ya, thanks that's cool of you. I got a set just to have an extra.