vaterra stock shocks

[ChILd_ReBoRn]

So.. I was under the impression (from some YT reviews), that Vaterra comes with aluminum shocks which are pretty decent. Well. I got mine with plastic ones, and they are crap. I was trying to get them to work properly, but either I'm doing something wrong, or the shocks are before mentioned.. crap..


so.. I've added 18WT oil to the top, and the shock acts as a spring with no spring added. I compress it, it resists, and just extends out. I've compressed it all the way in, and the top cap popped off. I've examined the piston.. it has 2 tiny holes ( around 0,8mm), but one is covered by the snap ring that connects the piston rod with the .. well.. the thingy with the holes. I was unable to expand the hole using 1,5mm drill, because it just damages the thingy. It's really tough plastic, and the hole is close to the edge.. So.. I took out a small amount of oil, and now they work correctly. The stock springs are another matter. The plastic collar connecting the top and bottom springs just grinds on the preload thread. I've exchanged the stock springs with a combination of old Tamiya springs (form the CC01), tamiya barrel springs, and stock vaterra springs.. and I managed to get some kind of a working suspension. I still think it could be better, and I think I'll order some internal spring shocks, and try them out..


in the attached movie.. you can see the rear wheel slowly dropping down to the ground.. I've made the front shocks a bit stiffer because all the weight is up front. The rig weighs in at 3,2 kg..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ed3G0uLlpis

[Natedog]

Stock shocks have been quite good ime, some of the later sping spacer/collars need to be shaved or sanded inside to free up there movement over the shocks body. Also check out Rich Trujillo’s shock collar modification thread.
Shock Setup Tip for reducing Torque Twist

I’d avoid internal spring shocks as they are a messy oily pita to setup and tune.

You’re overfilling the shocks, any plastic shocks would pop the tops in that condition. Metal shocks wouldn’t travel fully and would have lots of rebound as ya described. The Ascender specs list aluminum shocks as an option, none come stock with them.

Proper shock bleeding:
https://www.rccaraction.com/how-to-b...ks-like-a-pro/

[M1tch]

I never even built the stock shocks for my kit Blazer Ascender, as I tend to use Gmade shocks quite a lot. One thing to note when filling the shocks with oil is to push the piston up to the top of the stroke. The reason for this is, that as the piston and shock shaft move up the body, the volume in the body decreases, due to the shock shaft taking up space in the body.. A very simple thing that sometimes gets overlooked.

Also I think on the stock shocks, the circlip in the piston actually blocks some of the holes in the piston, which reduces oil flow. There are ways to fix that. Someone with knowledge of modifying stock shocks may be able to help with that.

[Natedog]

Great info M1tch! Stock shock pistons are easily drilled, but really ought to be removed from the shaft first. Iirc I used a number 55 or #56 drill bit on some and some I just notched, notching made them a little softer than I prefer. Running 30wt oil, but easy to change to thicker oil for more damping.

[M1tch]

@Natedog. I remember someone showing pics of modified pistons, but can't remember if it was you or someone else. I did search 'shocks', but got a bazillion results lol.