New Blue monkey Front shock mount!

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by twisted

im guessing a 4" shock.

90mm is NOT 4 inches....lol....about 3.5 inches. SLash front shocks are about that length.

[twisted]

Originally Posted by Natedog

90mm is NOT 4 inches....lol....about 3.5 inches. SLash front shocks are about that length.

100mm is 4" ;) i misread..... thats my excuses and im sticking to it.

[CREEPINKING]

Maybe its just me, but something doesn't seem right with the servo mount. Almost like its mounted too far back.

Are there any clearance issues with moving it forward and flipping the horn. To level out the steering rod?

[MachtSchnell]

I don't see the point of relocating the stock steering components more forward. The slop comes from the stock rack that has rather loose tolerances. If you put the servo far enough forward than there would be no need for the stock rack.

[stick-boy-rick]

i noticed there was a slight difference in the part shown in post #1 compaired to post #9. the website also shows the part from post #1. i personally like the part from post #9, if i were to order one can it be like the one in post #9? thanks, Rick

[Kzzican]

Originally Posted by MachtSchnell

Site says that the max shock size is 85mm, so I went ahead and ordered a pair of 85mm Gmade XD piggybacks that are actually functional.
Gmade 85mm XD Piggyback Shock Set (2) [GMA21207] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies

I have the gmade on the rear and am liking them for bashing. Thinking about getting a set for my open scT as they are adjustable.

[Kzzican]

Originally Posted by CREEPINKING

Maybe its just me, but something doesn't seem right with the servo mount. Almost like its mounted too far back.

Are there any clearance issues with moving it forward and flipping the horn. To level out the steering rod?

It does look to far back, but using the servo mounts it keeps the servo horn angle more horizontal with the steering rack mounting position (yet keep it under the hood.) I have a larger aluminum servo horn on there that i was using in the stock placement (Until i find the proper position i dont want to trim the length) and can't use the original plastic one due using JR spline servo.
Yes, with it mounted on the plate (horn upside down) it would hit the front diff. Im still playing with different positions of the horn on the servo to decrease the angle.

[Kzzican]

Originally Posted by MachtSchnell

I don't see the point of relocating the stock steering components more forward. The slop comes from the stock rack that has rather loose tolerances. If you put the servo far enough forward than there would be no need for the stock rack.

You are correct in the slop due to the Rack material being to thin and soft; This is not a reason for relocation. The reason i wanted to move the servo was to make room in the body pan to relocate the weight of the battery; as low as i could get it and off setting the weight of the motor. I also found out that in order to move the servo above the diff, I could simply just switch the complete left suspension with the right (spindles, a-arms and all). By doing this it relocated the shocks to the rear of the arm, the steering arms to the front and It gained a 1/2" of length to the wheelbase.

You would be correct if we were dealing with a solid axle, but its IFS so the rules change. Some type of steering rack is need due to the use of IFS. Much like the geometry between the a-arms, cvds, and camber links; The steering rack is there to keep the distance of the steering linkage at the proper height. When the suspension cycles from full extension to fully compressed the steering linkage is moving in a circular motion (circumference;) at the center of the circle is the pivot point for the linkage. If you move this pivot geometry up the steering will bind and try to push the linkage in the opposite way during full compression; Lower and the same result while trying to decompress.

Hope this helps you understand.

[Kzzican]

Originally Posted by stick-boy-rick

i noticed there was a slight difference in the part shown in post #1 compaired to post #9. the website also shows the part from post #1. i personally like the part from post #9, if i were to order one can it be like the one in post #9? thanks, Rick

Rick i believe #1 is the finished product, But i am just a Designer/tester and don't work for them so can't answer for them.
This is their official thread and you can ask that question and they will answer it. Vaterra Twin Hammers - Suspension Upgrades

[MachtSchnell]

Haha, I didn't look that far into it. I just saw a few pics of direct linkage setups on the VTH and assumed it worked. Since they do move independently from one another bump steer and all kinds of funny stuff would happen if both links mounted to a single point on the servo horn.

I like this vertical shock mount for better/smoother articulation, as the stock system has many pivots that inevitably create friction. I also like the ability to run a battery up front, or possibly one up front and one in the back wired in parallel for maximum run times.

[MachtSchnell]

Well... Things are a little too tight to to fit a battery up front with this mount (both 4000mAh 2s hardpack, and 3s batteries that fit in the back will not fit). It could be be done, but the cage might need to be modified. The 2000mAh 2s cells fit no problem, but that's no fun.

Also, to anyone thinking about running this on the street... DON'T roll the vehicle at speed, which will inevitably happen. I've bent this thing at least three times and had to hammer it back straight, and don't know how many more times it'll be able to reformed before breaking. The thing is that the shock mount sits higher than the line from the roof to the hood; and it will gladly accept impact and deform. It sucks having to pull the whole cage to remove this mount just to straighten it out.

Might have to mount the spare tire on the roof or the hood to take the impact so the shock mount doesn't have to. But mounting the tire on the hood will look stupid, and mounting it on the roof will raise the center of gravity and lower its ability to go under obstacles. A tall bumper/brush guard could work, but it would break/bend and become scrap in no time.

[Erin]

Originally Posted by MachtSchnell

Well... Things are a little too tight to to fit a battery up front with this mount (both 4000mAh 2s hardpack, and 3s batteries that fit in the back will not fit). It could be be done, but the cage might need to be modified. The 2000mAh 2s cells fit no problem, but that's no fun.

Also, to anyone thinking about running this on the street... DON'T roll the vehicle at speed, which will inevitably happen. I've bent this thing at least three times and had to hammer it back straight, and don't know how many more times it'll be able to reformed before breaking. The thing is that the shock mount sits higher than the line from the roof to the hood; and it will gladly accept impact and deform. It sucks having to pull the whole cage to remove this mount just to straighten it out.

Might have to mount the spare tire on the roof or the hood to take the impact so the shock mount doesn't have to. But mounting the tire on the hood will look stupid, and mounting it on the roof will raise the center of gravity and lower its ability to go under obstacles. A tall bumper/brush guard could work, but it would break/bend and become scrap in no time.

Wouldnt it help quite a bit to add a spreader bar between the uprights? That way the load is shared by both in an impact.

[MachtSchnell]

It might help. But all three times mine bent, either side bent back towards the windshield. So that might just cause both sides to twist, or bend backward upon impact.

[Blinkfan5150]

Dammit I just ordered mine

[Kzzican]

I have crashed mine plenty of times and never had a problem, only minor scratches which are expected. I guess im just lucky since the only issue i have had are just broken hex pins.
A support bar would be a easy fix to spread the weight.

If you have a suggestion or a fix just post in Blue Monkey Thread and im sure they will take it into consideration.

[razors 33]

Is High speed handling better or worse with this?

Ie

Does it tip over less?

[tim the toolman]

I dont have one (yet) but i imagine it will let the front end work better with some properly adjusted shocks. The bigger gain will be from relocating the battery down lower though

[MachtSchnell]

Depends where the battery is relocated to. If on the belly pan in place of the servo, esc, and receiver than it would make a huge difference; but would be a total wash after factoring in the amount of time it will take to swap in a fresh cell.

I don't think mounting a cell atop the front diff would be any good for speed, because of the loss of traction in the rear. Also with a cell in standard position under full brake the rig is already "endo" happy. On the flip side, running a battery up front should work very well for crawling.

[tim the toolman]

Originally Posted by MachtSchnell

Depends where the battery is relocated to. If on the belly pan in place of the servo, esc, and receiver than it would make a huge difference; but would be a total wash after factoring in the amount of time it will take to swap in a fresh cell.

I don't think mounting a cell atop the front diff would be any good for speed, because of the loss of traction in the rear. Also with a cell in standard position under full brake the rig is already "endo" happy. On the flip side, running a battery up front should work very well for crawling.

True. I'm going to see if my battery could slide in from the front with the servo out of the way. If not I dont think i will bother with the whole thing, might just widen it a bit more instead

[big daddy smokes]

Gonna try to put a winch in there. I bent one side then straightened it out ground down a old link and no more bending !!!