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Old 10-17-2013, 10:24 AM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 281
Default Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

Hello,

As a long time Axial guy looking to dip my toes into the Twin Hammers water, I have a few questions that I figure some owners can answer.

- How is the durability? I ask because I've heard some local guys say they are "built cheap" but have never really explained why they think that way.

- How does it crawl when the front is locked? I've seen several Twammers out at local comps, but the front diff is never locked so they don't perform well. Why the guys don't spend 10 dollars to lock the diffs I sure don't know, but because of that I've never actually seen one setup to perform on the rocks.

Those are my main two questions. My SCX10's have always performed fantastically out on the trails and in G6 competition. I'm a bit bored by the platform however and would love to build a G6 capable Twin Hammers. Any advice from owners would be helpful. Thanks!
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:35 AM   #2
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

Quote:
Originally Posted by thisdougsforu View Post
Hello,

As a long time Axial guy looking to dip my toes into the Twin Hammers water, I have a few questions that I figure some owners can answer.

- How is the durability? I ask because I've heard some local guys say they are "built cheap" but have never really explained why they think that way.

- How does it crawl when the front is locked? I've seen several Twammers out at local comps, but the front diff is never locked so they don't perform well. Why the guys don't spend 10 dollars to lock the diffs I sure don't know, but because of that I've never actually seen one setup to perform on the rocks.

Those are my main two questions. My SCX10's have always performed fantastically out on the trails and in G6 competition. I'm a bit bored by the platform however and would love to build a G6 capable Twin Hammers. Any advice from owners would be helpful. Thanks!
I got the hammer specifically for G6, and so far the rig has really impressed me, and I had a lot of doubts up front.

I have modified mine quite abit, but not necessarily because it needed it. I added BMRC front uprights, BMRC steering, along with limited scx shocks to get front to actually work. Made alum steer/tie rods, but otherwise front end is stock.

Ive seen a lot of people break things with the front locker, so I filled the diff tight with silly putty. It will slip just a bit in a very tight bind, but crawls great.

I stretched the wheelbase 5/8" with BMRC ext links, I cut those down some though. Added a rear sway bar, huge improvement all around. Proline power stroke slash shocks out back with the softest springs they make.

hitec shift servo, 400 oz steer servo, and a servo winch.

As it sits now it goes anywhere my honcho goes, but does require a bit of different driving style with some obstacles.

To say I really like this thing is a understatement lol
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:46 AM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Reno
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

I have two. I love them. One I keep stock just as reference. The other I'm working on going crazy with. But as of now the only upgrades are electronics and silly putty front locker and the front shock aluminum base plate. The front shock base plate seems to be the weak link yet I have not broken one. And it is addressed with shock upright kits and steering mod kits. Just to keep in mind.
I do a lot of trail running. And even in stock condition with a "locker" up front, I have no trouble keeping up with scx10s. I even have a scx and I go to the TH everytime. In heavy rock crawling the scx is superior but I never go out with that as the sole perpose of going out. Anything over 10 mph is scratchy for the scx and the twin hammer will go 15-20mph no problem. This makes it awesome for large open areas and what not that you come upon on trail.
I'm not a hard core guy and the duel function of te TH makes it the last vehicle id ever part with.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:06 AM   #4
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

I've had great luck so far with mine. Haven't tried shifting gears as my 3rd channel is being used for lights. It's been rolled, cartwheeled, hit a tree, wall (both at mid-speed in first), and have yet to snap anything.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:06 PM   #5
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

Thank you all for providing feedback. Sounds like a twin hammers is perfect for what I want - a great trail machine. I'm rarely just go hardcore rock crawling, and I have an upgraded scx10 for that anyways. Looks like I'll be adding one to the fleet soon!
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:24 PM   #6
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin View Post

As it sits now it goes anywhere my honcho goes, but does require a bit of different driving style with some obstacles.
+1

I like mine,, but find it way different than my SCX10.. Will it not go ?? yes it will,, but it takes Throttle./
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:15 PM   #7
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

I have a axial and I purchased a twin hammer and liked it so much I purchased another one!!
See my 3 part video review test on it






Last edited by shenlonco; 10-17-2013 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:05 PM   #8
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Default

With the trials I run, I get around better with my scx10


Than I do with my hammers

..
The hammers is running a 10.5t sensored brushless system.
Both trucks have weighted (3oz) per wheel maxxis trepadors.
The scx is just a better climber and the hammers gets hung up more often unless you drive aggressively.


Sent from my highly abused iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #9
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Default Re: Twin Hammers questions from a prospective buyer

I have only had mine for about two months but in that time I have put at least two batteries, hour and half of drive time a day (I have allot of time on my hands) literally.
As for durability I think it is very good for out of the box, the truck that is. Mine was completely dry no grease in any gear box and tons of loose stuff so you will want to go through everything before running, thread locker, grease ect.

The biggest problems are the steering and the electronics. I went with the Derwood designs steering kit and upgraded it with bearings no play and strong to fix the steering. The servos are cheep junk and the steering servo has allot of play witch can be fixed buy putting a bearing in place of the bushing at the out put but it is still SLOW with NO TORQUE. I said I was going to run it tell it broke but it was just too annoying so I have replaced it with a good servo. The speed control has now burned up running the stock motor with stock gearing and stock 2S batteries so I think its junk also. As for the front diff I went with the 500k fluid it crawls good and I have broke no front end parts yet. I have a full off-road track and a rock garden in my back yard so when I am running it I am running it like I am at a comp or a race. The front springs are too stiff the shock oil is too thick and it needs a rear sway bar (sway bar makes a big difference even crawling) but everyone drives different.

With all that said I love this thing and am very happy I bought one it is just a fun truggy. I don't believe I have had as much fun with any RC since my first real one I bought in 1987 an RC10 and since then I have owned at least one of everything.
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