IRIE Products

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by WesTX

I tend to go way too fast way too much and that means more and more wrecks.

Let me know if you think you could come up with something.

Wes

Me to, fast is fun and I am working on the bent tower issue, maybe not the same way as your talking but it should work.

Originally Posted by SMOG

I think you nailed it man! I am not on the stock servo, I am working with the kit. Thx for the input, you put some polish on my greeness.

I run a Hitec 5995TG and I had to make sure the servo was completely flat to the bottom of the chassy. There is not allot of room to say the least you can see in my picture (post 189) it just clears.

[onecool54@yahoo]

So in my opinion why don't you just build an outer shock cage that mounts to the uprights. They do it on full sized rigs.
In regards to bending the derwood shock tower I drive my pretty rough and have never bent mine.
How are you crashing?
Sounds like you are doing a lot of tumbling.
Please keep in mind that this is just my opinion.

[Danners]

Thank you Sr Irie your bell cranks for the GCM front plate saved my steering's life!! Check it out for yourself https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=z67UlckxPxA

[Danners]

Originally Posted by toyotatrucks83

I agree with you irie. I've just prefered the look and the protectability of buggy style. The straight ones like yours, bmrc, and gcm look great also. They just stick the mount and the shock way out there to get bent by crashes and roll overs. I'm actually thinking of going back to the lay down shock for the TH I built with full indepent suspension just to keep shocks and mounts covered by the flex able body. Like I mentioned. I'm bending the Derwood style with my crashes even being inboard like they are.
One problem I'm havin is I can't use lay down shocks with your steering kit which I love. I don't expect you to address all these concerns. I know that I have a very custom build that requires custom parts for just my application. Supply and demand. I'm hoping to get something reproducible for this rear independent suspension. But I don't have high hopes. It requires a lot of parts. Just the extra factory parts are totaling up to over $80. And that is just of the parts I know the cost of.

I think if you want to go back to lay down shocks you are in the same boat as me. I've pretty well given up on second gear because every time I break something. I don't know if this is a good solution for you but my thoughts are to buy a slash or something similar to bash and go fast with and keep the Hammers as a dedicated crawler. I've never broke or bent anything in 1st gear.

[meatmonkey]

I just ordered the full steering kit with shock mounts. Of course I have to be "that guy" who wants to make the stock lay-down shocks work, even it it means making my own mounting posts. If I can't find a suitable mounting method then I plan on using the upright mount and making a sheetmetal "tie bar" running across the hood to tie the two mounting points together. It certainly won't be stylish, but if it prevents tweaked mounts then it'll be worth it.

[Sr.Irie]

The tie bar sounds like it will work, I just do not hit things, I guess it is my superior driving.

Patience all I really do have a fix for the bending of the tower COMING SOON

[toyotatrucks83]

Ohhhhh like what? Something for a 75mm shock maybe? Wink wink.

[Sr.Irie]

Check this out
So the TH started not putting much power to the driver's front tire and it was shaking. I thought I striped the side gear in the diff so I tore it down to replace and this is what I found. The side gear was fine the thrust washer that sits behind the cross pin and side gear in the diff was screwed up, well it looked like this see pic. Then I noticed the axle was bent and that was causing the shake. None of this is really a big deal but HOW THE HELL DOES THIS HAPPEN with No other damage. My only thought was suspension was going to far, bent or something, nope. Thought I would share what is puzzling me.

Anyway back together ready for more punishment

[toyotatrucks83]

I would speculate the same thing you did. Shocks compressing to far. I could see how that could happen easily too. The suspension travel is so little.

[MaxxPain]

My guess is the A-Arm flexes on a large jump and causes the axle to go in further and bend.

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by MaxxPain

My guess is the A-Arm flexes on a large jump and causes the axle to go in further and bend.

This is the only idea I have as well. To think the A-arms can flex that far and not break is crazy to me but that is the only way I see it could happen.

[Generis]

Ryan has his front arms so badly flexed, it's got extra castor on the buggy. We replaced the front arms, and couldn't believe how out of shape they were!

[Sr.Irie]

Maybe I buy a spare set of arms and compare. I know the arms are tough because I hit a rock at full speed some time ago. The arm did not break and the green aluminum thing the hinge pin plugs into did, I was pretty shocked then to.

[Stets]

I'm going to go home and check mine now! That could be the cause of all my shake and rattle

[Stets]

All of my cvds are bent almost exactly like that... My factory Cvds are much worse than my irie cryo ones, but even my irie Cvds are bent slightly!

[meatmonkey]

I had to put a couple of O-rings externally on the front shock shafts to prevent the axleshaft from contacting the outdrive when the front end was heavily compressed. There were witness marks on the shafts in the same place as yours from the contact. I couldn't quite make it touch by cycling the suspension on the bench by hand, but undoubtably smashing into solid objects at speed will further deflect/compress the suspension.

I was majorly concerned that the front arms would break the outer ears off because the outer pivot pins (pin bolts?) are independent and not tied together like a traditional hinge pin setup. Well, I've smoked some large rocks, had some horrific landings on one front corner, and just in general drive kinda wrecklesly. The arms are still straight, all the pivots are still smooth.

I'm impressed considering I destroy E-maxx arms every time I drive it, tweak Blitz arms within a few packs, and break most RPM arms with ease. Yes, I am hard on equipment.

And yes, I do agree that driving style/lack of talent is a major contributing factor to bent aftermarket shock towers. The lack of a stock front shock tower to break was actually a selling point of the TH for me.

Is anyone else breaking the inner dogbone style pin on the front axles? So far I've broken two inner and two outer pins. The outers are no big deal, I just cut new ones out of drill bit shanks.

I'm not sure how to go about replacing the inner pins as I think they are press fit? Has anyone successfully replaced a front inner pin?

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by Stets

I'm going to go home and check mine now! That could be the cause of all my shake and rattle

Originally Posted by Stets

All of my cvds are bent almost exactly like that... My factory Cvds are much worse than my irie cryo ones, but even my irie Cvds are bent slightly!

Well that solves that mystery. My A arms did not end up being bent or distorted I purchased a new set and compared them. I guess they just flexed far enough to bend the axle and then sprung back.

[Stets]

I think a lot of my steering "wobble" is also coming from the play that has developed in the Cvds... As to why they have developed that much play now seems to be due to the bent dogbones

[snowman13]

to completely change the subject....is there any reason why I cant bolt a blue monkey kit to your brace and steering arms? I know this will sit it up a bit higher but isn't everyone limiting shocks anyways?

[toyotatrucks83]

Snowman, I believe if you go back further in this thread someone has even posted pictures of the bmrc shock tower on irie's steering.