Dream Vaterra TH Build List

[Clueless94]

So onto the final revision of the OP, I found almost everything on Amazon with little to no shipping cost on top. Only 3 items I need to get separate, which are Irie Bellcrank $40 shipped, and gcm front tower plate, axle truss which end up $112 shipped.

I'm too lazy to post links so I put everything in my cart and screen shot it.



NEED TO FIND:
-heavy oil for front diff(lsd) cst something


POSSIBLE MODS TO DO WHILE BUILDING


-Do hood mod so I can relocate battery front


I'm open to any advice and I will try to use the search button more.

PS
I'm a machinist so I can work on lunchs to modify RC parts or make new parts, but I'm trying to figure out the electronics

[Clueless94]

Also the locker for the front is only $10, so is there any reason not to put that in too?

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[Clueless94]

So let me kind of put a list of stuff I'd like to do.

Different transmitter so there isn't a delay in movement. I'd say 3 channel?

I'm guessing different esc would be needed to work with that.

Stronger steering servo for crawling.

Gcm rear link mount

Gcm vertical shock mounts

Irie steering bell crank

Boom racing knuckles (or whatever the parts they are)

I want to be able to run a 3s battery so id have battery life.

I'm trying to figure out motors but I'm guessing one in the 3000 range for good torque and speed

Feel free to add stuff I should look into

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[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by Clueless94

So let me kind of put a list of stuff I'd like to do.

Different transmitter so there isn't a delay in movement. I'd say 3 channel?

I'm guessing different esc would be needed to work with that.

Stronger steering servo for crawling.

Gcm rear link mount

Gcm vertical shock mounts

Irie steering bell crank

Boom racing knuckles (or whatever the parts they are)

I want to be able to run a 3s battery so id have battery life.

I'm trying to figure out motors but I'm guessing one in the 3000 range for good torque and speed

Feel free to add stuff I should look into

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From the sound of your posts, you need the kit.
The kit includes option parts, steel gears, sway bars front and rear, locker for the front, ect
From my kit build the only thing I am really having trouble with is the steering, and breaking drive pins in the front cvd's . (built 100%stock)
I am using a dx4c so I have an extra channel for the future winch.
3000kv on 3s will be ballistic, not a bad thing mind you. For knuckles and c hubs go vanquish.

[Clueless94]

Thank you for some help! And so vanquish are better? And will battery and motor combo be problematic or too much, or a lot of money?

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[Clueless94]

Also if I had a 4 channel transmitter could i have aux rock lights on the vehicle controlled on the controller?

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[Clueless94]

So what is the best budget transmitters that are reactive but economical

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[lonleycreeper]

Yes vanquish is called the best, boom racing is OK at best.
Channel 1 steering,
Channel 2 throttle,
Channel 3 shifting ,
Channel 4 option.

I like my Dx4c,
But I have also heard good things about the flysky transmitters.

[Clueless94]

What about rc4wd xr4 transmitter

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[DrewHammer]

I'd use the spektrum over any RC4wd radio. Truthfully the radio latency isn't a problem, I'm sure even the cheapest on the market isn't noticeable.

When I built my Twin Hammers I chose the following, RTR's were only available at the time since it was still "brand new";

"open" diff with summit 100,000 cst oil (keeps from breaking cvd's while acting like a limited slip)
SCX10 transmission (weighs less, never used more than one gear anyways)
Derwood bellcrank steering (only one on the market at the time)
Gmade High lift F350 driveshafts, happened to be the right length to work with SCX10 trans
Novak Ballistic 550 4600kv?
2100 mah 3s lipo
Vaterra soft sway bars
Locked up wheels
PB tires
Custom lexan roof
Custom front bumper
Custom hand made aluminum hood

I honestly bought a bunch of OEM parts as well expecting stuff to break (arms, trailing arms, c hubs, knuckles, etc), and it never did. I'm saving them for a "rebuild" coming up soon.

I see no value in changing from the front bellcrank shocks. These are very similar to Losi style "cartridge" shocks. I prefer these since I raced with them a long time and can get them to seal up without problem. I didn't want them sticking up above the hood in a damage prone area.

PM me if you want a set of prints to make your own SCX10 trans adapter, I'm a machinist as well and have it all documented in CAD.

[Clueless94]

That looks great. After putting together the long list of stuff I'd want to do I'm realizing I might by the RTR and modify when I break parts or once I understand better. Might do different battery and stuff later on. Was hoping I could keep it under $600 for all of the nicest things

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[DrewHammer]

Originally Posted by Clueless94

That looks great. After putting together the long list of stuff I'd want to do I'm realizing I might by the RTR and modify when I break parts or once I understand better. Might do different battery and stuff later on. Was hoping I could keep it under $600 for all of the nicest things

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That being the case I'd stick with a kit and run whatever electronics fit in your budget.

I highly advise against running a brushed motor in a twin hammers. with where the end bell winds up with the stock trans you'll quickly fill the motor with dirt/stand and trash the motor. I ran a brushed motor in my TH once. Literally once, by the end of the first pack I had worn through the brushes enough that I wasn't getting adequate brush pressure on the comm.

I built a simple "link" for mine to lock the trans into high gear. Play around with your motor and pinion/spur gearing to find out what trans gear works best for your.

Dug up some more old photos of my TH build

[Clueless94]

Do you think I could stay under $600 for a kit and do nice electronics and other mods

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[Clueless94]

And run 3s battery?

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[DrewHammer]

With that budget I'd probably get a kit, a decent brushless setup like a Mamba Max Pro and any sensored brushless motor, a hitech 7955/7954 and a reasonable radio that fit my requirements. A decent 2 channel is all you really need

There's also plenty of cheap options if you keep your eyes out on the classifieds here.

[MeanTT]

I have a ton of mods on mine. Order of importance listed below:

1. Revised bellcrank steering, massive improvement.
2. GCM or homemade real axle brace to reduce torque twist (presuming brushless)
3. Sway bar set for the rear.
4. Metal drive hexes (mandatory with brushless power)
5. Brushless system. I use the castle 3800 kv run a 28tooth pinion on 3S. It's far too fast to be a great crawler. But if you get a mamba max pro, you can run a sensored system and crawl like a pro.
6. Vertical shocks, easier to tune and set ride height.

That's basically it for the gotta haves. You can always replace shocks, change wheels and tires and improve on the stock steering servo. I have had basically no problems on mine. Remember though, it is not and can not be a high speed rig. The rear suspension does not like speed. A yeti is a much better option for true high speed stuff. The TH is fun because it doesn't handle well. Remember too that it has limited from suspension travel unlike a Yeti. That means it doesn't jump well and will bottom out.

[Clueless94]

Thanks guys! Your helping a lot! I am not looking for only a high speed or only a crawler since it's my first and will be my only rig for a long time until kids are older

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[Clueless94]

So if I go with a kit, is it basically all together or is every little part need to be assembled?

If I go the kit route with brushless motor and all that can I still maintain waterproof like the RTR?

So how does a censored system work?

What is the advantage of having aluminium caster blocks and knuckles?

Could I run a 3s battery without running the gcm front tower plate? Stock location?

Also so once I get the right motor and esc and all this, is it plug n play or a solder wires type thing

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[BradyT88]

Originally Posted by Clueless94

So if I go with a kit, is it basically all together or is every little part need to be assembled?

If I go the kit route with brushless motor and all that can I still maintain waterproof like the RTR?

So how does a censored system work?

What is the advantage of having aluminium caster blocks and knuckles?

Could I run a 3s battery without running the gcm front tower plate? Stock location?

Also so once I get the right motor and esc and all this, is it plug n play or a solder wires type thing

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Hey Cam

There is a 3s battery that fits in the stock rear. It's a Zippy Compact 2200 mah. The problem is that 3s doesn't mean more battery life than 2s. You are using more voltage so you have a lot more power. There is a 2s Turnigy nano-tech 4200mah battery that fits in the stock rear as well which will give you almost twice the battery life compared to that Zippy.

As for the front locker, it looks like the best option is to run silly putty or really heavy gear oil up front instead. It will function like a locker but will allow things to slip a little before breaking. Might not prevent breakage but should reduce it at least.

You have to assemble most everything with the kit, but it come with a ton of upgrades like having all metal gears in the trans and diffs instead of plastic ones.

I noticed you said you are looking for only a high speed or only a crawler? if that is the case you might pick something besides a TH. It is setup like our Tacomas. Not a great crawler and not a great Prerunner, but it's decent at both. In the RC world they have some good high speed rigs that are independent front and rear and some good crawlers that are solid axle front and rear. I like the TH because I want something that can do both so I can just build and maintain 1 RC instead of 2. As somebody said, the Yeti is a good basher. It is setup like a Twin hammers, but due to it's size and power, it's not much of a crawler. Most of the threads I read people said they just locked them in high because low was useless. They also seem to have problems with the front end breaking though. My coworker picked up an Arrma Talion for about $350 RTR. It sounds like it's a pretty good high speed rig, but it's huge! 1:8th scale. The Honcho is a great crawling rig if you wanted to stay with a crawler. Most people run those SCX10's for general crawling it seems like. For me I want to do both, but I want to stick with the TH because it is smaller meaning my backyard will stay a challenge instead of getting something bigger like the yeti or Talion and having my backyard get boring fast...

A sensored motor uses sensors to detect the position of the motor shaft. They perform better when crawling since they cog less. A non-sensored motor just sort of guesses where the shaft is at and every once in a while they will actually go in reverse instead of forward. haha Brushless motors are not waterproof like a brushed motor is, but you can take steps to make it water resistant.

If you stick to 2s a Turnigy Trackstar 17.5T motor seems to be a good fit for the TH. It's pretty cheap at $33, but it a brushless sensored motor. It's not rated to run 3s voltage though. Which may not be a bad thing since most people have said the TH doesn't handle well above 20 mph and when crawling 3s is more power so you are more prone to breaking stuff. That being said, I think I am going to opt for a Tekin Roc412 or Pro4 motor for mine, but it's a $150 motor. I am planning on getting the Spektrum Dx4C transmitter and receiver so that I can try out their AVC technology though. I'm hoping that will allow for some better control above 20 mph for me.
AVC: Spektrum - The Leader in Spread Spectrum Technology
The downside is that I will use up all 4 channels so I will end up having to shift the trans by hand rather than with the radio...

[Ca. Off Roader]

Hate to throw a monkey wrench into your plans but here are my thoughts... I started with an RTR. The current v2 RTR has been very reliable and only after doing some upgrades have I started to incur failures as I fine tune them.

That said, its been great to run it reliably, determine what mods I want to make and progressively make them, fine tuning each MOD separately as I make them instead of potentially having a lot of separate problems simultaneously.

Those are my thoughts anyway.

HTH.

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