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Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Interlachen
Posts: 4
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Has anyone heard of or used the boom racing products? I found they make aluminum control arms,hubs, and something else for the front of the th. I was interested in giving it a try since I have to replace my arms and hinge pins anyway. Just wanted some feed back first. Wow really? No one's heard or tried the boom racing product? Ok just placed my order. We'll see how they fit and perform. I'll post pics and a review after I run it. Last edited by THX_138; 01-21-2016 at 09:43 AM. |
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Newbie ![]() Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Atlanta
Posts: 29
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i just ordered a set i will report when i get them
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Pebble Pounder ![]() Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Manchester
Posts: 109
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They make quality parts.
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Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2014 Location: vancover island Canada
Posts: 79
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got a bunch of there stuff for good price coming ill post after i get them :p
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![]() | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Blackcreek
Posts: 88
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I got mine great fit awesome price and a parts box to boot. Look high quality so far
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![]() | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
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Did you get your order? Pics? @G2rebel did you get these parts yet? How are they? Where did you order them from? Last edited by THX_138; 01-21-2016 at 09:44 AM. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Blackcreek
Posts: 88
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Yes...they were on a weekly special
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: San Marcos
Posts: 635
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My experience with Boom Racing aluminum parts on a Twin Hammers was this, and it might be the same with any aluminum parts on a Twin Hammers: In the front end, aluminum causes failures in ANY surrounding stock parts, for example: Aluminum steering knuckles bent both steering links (twice) Aluminum axle carriers snapped the camber links Aluminum rocker links combined with aluminum A-arms sheared the bolts the rocker links ride on, causing me to need new bolts AND a new differential housing since the bolt sheared down inside the diff housing None of these failures have been experienced when using the stock plastic parts, and they've seen a lot of use The A-arms were Boom Racing, and all the other parts were GPM racing, both brands ordered from AsiaTees. The parts fit great and looked cool. None of the parts themselves failed either. They just seemed too stiff for the rest of the parts on the Twin Hammers. I switched all parts back to stock plastic, other than the GCM aluminum front plate/shock hoops that I now have installed. That part has been awesome! |
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![]() | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: OTOW, Ocala, FL
Posts: 67
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That is excellent info for those of us who erroneously believe every upgrade is worthwhile. Sometimes it is a step backwards. I'm learning, and your experience will help me spend less money. ![]() |
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![]() | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2015 Location: North Lakes, QLD
Posts: 79
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Probably from Asiatees: Vaterra Twin Hammers Parts, Upgrades & Aluminum Hop-Ups | AsiaTees | Online RC Hobby Store They are currently discounted and you can get another 10% off if you grab green/gun metal/blue parts. I got caster blocks, knuckles, front arms, shock plate, rear shock stay, front shock rocker mount thingy, servo horn and hexes for less than $100 AUD (80 USD) with free delivery. I had all ornage stuff in my cart but changed it because I am cheap. I ordered almost all the gpm/boom "upgrades" from Asiatees but I missed the courier today, not sure if I will fit them now though, Fallen speaks my experience with most aluminium parts when you mix with plastic. The kit is solid as it is apart from those two ridiculous screws in the transmission that should be the much bulkier hex head bolts. The upgrades would only be for looks, Maybe I will just chuck em on for some photos. Dammit, they just put out two new hop-ups. I had been looking at the hot racing links but these are much more realistically priced. Boom Racing Vaterra Twin Hammers Aluminum Upper Suspension Links - 1 Pair Green BR341005 Boom Racing Vaterra Twin Hammers Aluminum Lower Suspension Links - 1 Pair Green BR341004 Just waiting for a diff housing and tubes I guess. ![]() - only issues with the full front arms/knuckles/caster blocks are that the sway bar mount hole is smaller (maybe 2mm or 2.5) so need a new ball end and the cross brace is hitting the drive cup on compression which is more likely due to slightly extended travel with the 75mm Gmade piggybacks - I got those because might grab towers at some stage. Edit: Ok, with the 60 seconds it took to remove the front diff altogether the 75s will stay. looking forward to some sweet jumps when I can get it going faster than 22km/h :S (waiting for pinions in the mail) Put in the rear shock towers too, look purty. will take a couple pics when it's finished. ![]() All together and waiting for pinions. Last edited by THX_138; 01-21-2016 at 09:47 AM. |
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: San Marcos
Posts: 635
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Dude, don't let your wife see your rig on the kitchen counter! Also, if anyone is interested in buying my lightly used and promptly removed aluminum Twin Hammers parts, PM me. I'll ship anywhere in CONUS and hook you up for a sweet price. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2015 Location: North Lakes, QLD
Posts: 79
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Haha, it's cleaner than my desk so I take the risk... I just have to remember to clean the tyre marks off before she gets home. BTW - I found an alternative to retapping the front sway bar holes on the boom racing arms - I used a rubber mount and metal bushing from a cheap servo kit + some random 2mm (I think) screw. Then you need to ensure the ball end is pushed as far up the shaft (towards the front of the car) as possible to maximise efficacy. ![]() Last edited by Chicken Man; 05-28-2015 at 04:56 PM. |
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![]() | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: San Marcos
Posts: 635
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Okay, I re-installed the Boom Racing and GPM Racing aluminum upgrades (A-arms, steering knuckles, axle carriers) on the basis that I did a few supporting upgrades that hopefully strengthen the surrounding components. The upgrades are: Replacing the stock Vaterra turnbuckle links (camber & steering) with Traxxas aluminum turnbuckles and Traxxas rod ends Replacing the front suspension set-up (stock shocks, rocker links, suspension links, top brace) with a GCM front plate with shock hoops and Axial SCX10 shocks Pro-Line TSL Super Swamper XLs, 1.9. These tires are bigger & softer than stock and noticeably lessen the impact transmitted through the suspension. I ran the Twin Hammers off the same jump as the one in the video. The video was taken prior to the Boom/GPM Racing parts being installed, but I did the same jump numerous times after the Boom/GPM parts were put on. I actually had a pretty bad crash with the Boom/GPM upgrades that resulted in numerous cartwheels after a hard landing onto the side of one front wheel. Nothing broken except for a slight crack in one of the Traxxas rod ends. The rod end doesn't need replacing yet but I don't see it taking too much more abuse before it does. The Twin Hammers seems to benefit from the extra weight of the aluminum front end as it seems more planted on the ground and easier to control both on the ground and in the air. This jump landing and crash were onto soft grass & dirt so a tougher surface would be harder on these Boom/GPM parts and the surrounding components. https://youtu.be/L4BGIlXb19E Last edited by Fallen; 06-15-2015 at 03:48 PM. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2015 Location: North Lakes, QLD
Posts: 79
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Biggest thing to watch is that on compression the drive cups will hit the boom racing arms hard unless you limit travel with bumpstops or something. Not an issue for me with only rwd but yeah... worth noting. I have done some huge jumps where the two rocker arms have actually hit each other (GPM part) and it has landed front first bottoming out and generally going horribly wrong and still no issues with the alu parts. Last edited by Chicken Man; 06-16-2015 at 04:54 PM. | |
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![]() | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: harrisburg
Posts: 2
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ok so I bought a set of boom racing high mass wheels and tried to mount my 1.9 super swampers onto them and the bead of the tire is too thick to set into the beadlock. I do not know what to do? I really want to use the tires soon!!! Does anyone have any suggestions????? Thanks, Dustylee4400 |
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![]() | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Sweden
Posts: 5
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I got them on those wheels. Think I was using soap to make them slide in. Or maybe I didn't. But I got them on eventually probably spending 20 min per wheel. Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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![]() | #17 |
Rock Stacker ![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: San Diego
Posts: 71
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Looks clean man.
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