popping driveshafts

[Panko]

Ok guys,

i have just fitted G-Made 85mm shocks to the front of my TH, on a GCM racing upright front end.

however, first good run out, POP goes a drive shaft at the front, falling out of the drive cup. What do people do to stop this? limit straps? or different shafts?

[Di_Spencer]

I have found that the associated B4 stock cvd bone fits perfectly into the TH cup. All you need if the cvd bone and a rebuild kit.


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[Sethmetal]

Make sure you screwed the shocks shaft all the way on. This can effect full extension.

If that's all good, then you can put a short piece of tubing on the shaft inside the shock to limit down travel.

You could also make limit strap, but that is probably the trickier solution.

If there are different shock holes on the GCM mount, you could try changing it to a higher hole.

I actually unthreaded my shock ends to get full extension. But I have the Irie mount.

I like to get the dog bone to where it's just at the edge of the cup and I like full compression to be close the the inside oft me he cup, but definitely not touching the inside of the cup.

You can also correct some of this with the upper arm length, but only a little bit without having too much camber.


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[Tom G]

The simple fix is to install a small 1/8 - 3/16 spacer inside the shock to limit the down travel when fully extended. U will not loose that much suspension
travel
Attachment 330909

Attachment 330910

[jebster]

Originally Posted by Di_Spencer

I have found that the associated B4 stock cvd bone fits perfectly into the TH cup. All you need if the cvd bone and a rebuild kit.


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Do you have part numbers? Any measurements or pics showing a comparison of the twin hammer bone to the B4?

[Di_Spencer]

Associated #9672
Associated #7371

I don't have a pic comparing the length but I have a pic showing the ridiculous droop I can get from them.


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[Sethmetal]

Originally Posted by Di_Spencer

Associated #9672
Associated #7371

I don't have a pic comparing the length but I have a pic showing the ridiculous droop I can get from them.


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Show it!!!!

Does it not bind on compression?


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[Di_Spencer]

Here it is
I can get a little more droop but even at the current stance the steering link angle it too steep so custom knuckles with a higher mounting point are in the work.

Boom racing arms
Shorter camber links at outside hole


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[Panko]

i like the scale look of limit straps

but i also like the idea of the associated shafts....maybe ill do both :P

what length shocks are they Spencer?

[Di_Spencer]

Gmade 93 w/ no limiting & custom suspension

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[Di_Spencer]

I see you are running the game 85 so you could just buy the 93 shafts & body's and convert them to 93. I don't know that the cost of the parts is better than just buying 2 new shocks tho.


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[jebster]

Originally Posted by Di_Spencer

Associated #9672
Associated #7371

I don't have a pic comparing the length but I have a pic showing the ridiculous droop I can get from them.


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I need to look those up. I've seen similar suggestions in the past but the dogbones ended up being the same length.

[Di_Spencer]

Yeah it was in the MIP thread and I was the one that compared the length and said they were the same. I will try to find pic of difference

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[Di_Spencer]

Here is a pic of the associated on top and the stock on the bottom.


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[haks]

I'm gonna try this associated trick as well. Have the same 85mm gmade shocks and I solved it with some shims under the gcm plate. But that leaves a little less room for my battery. So thanks for the tip.


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[Sethmetal]

Although this seems cool. I don't see it changing travel at all. Your cup kinda determines that.

This mod gives you the appearance of more droop, but you'll lose compression.
So it's really just a lift or raising center of gravity.

To really utilize that shaft, you'd need longer arms to match.


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[haks]

Yes. I will get the same travel, just a higher cg. And I can use these lovely gmade shocks that I want to use. So for me it's perfect. The alternative is to limit the length of the shocks which will really loose some travel from them.


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[Sethmetal]

You have a fixed windo of travel created by the geometry of your arms and the limitations of the cups.

You can make the most of this travel, which the 85mm does if mounted correctly.

Beyond that you can move this window of travel up or down to change CG.

Twin Hammers is built with it really high on the chassis. Aka low CG

I have thought about making a custom chassis and mounting the diff under the plane that it currently sits. This would raise CG, but be more realistic.

You could maybe squeeze a little more travel out of the 93mm shocks, but you'll get dangerously close to the bones popping out or slamming inward with great force upon landings.

I have my suspension maxed out as far as travel goes. Any lower and my bone would pop out and I like to give about 2mm space in the cups before the bone bottoms out at full compression.

Also, when factoring in where the bone sits, I highly recommend having the cup slot vertical as this is when you have greatest opportunity to have issue because of the angulation of the bone. Uh huh huh huh


Anyway, I'm intrigued with more travel as well, but upon trying a bunch of things, I've determined shocks are not my limit, but, really the length of the arms. And more probably the length of the cups.


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[meatmonkey]

Never personally run the G-made shocks, but assuming they use 3mm shafts you may be able to swap over to slightly shorter rod ends to limit droop travel.

It's a fruitless search for more front end travel without going to longer arms. I like the narrow track width, so I'm keeping stock travel. It's not just one factor limiting travel, it's many. The axle plunge, angularity of the steering rod ends, shock travel, all max out at about the same time with the stock setup.

I think this helps make the truck durable, as when you really smash into something the stress of being pushed past normal travel is spread amongst all the parts instead of overstressing one single part.

[joe007]

I like that longer cvd shafts. I love the droop because it sure looks like you get full movement of the shock. I put a spacer in each front shock. But with the longer shafts I will be able to remove the spacer and get more travel out of my shocks. Now just one question is to Spencer when you full compress the front end does the b4 shaft hit the inside of the cup?