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Newbie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pendeen, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 49
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I've been following and posting in the Clone Hammers thread but have got to a point where I thought I would consolidate my experiences to date. Firstly it's a good rc let down by a few poor components but then, what do you expect for £69. The reciever died on the first run, this also made the servos useless as they are of the five wire variety and as it's an integrated unit I now also had no esc. These were replaced with a Spektrum DX4C, Hobbywing 1060 wp esc, Savox SW0231MG steering servo and an EMAX ES3005 shift servo. EDIT 6/6/17: I should have made it clear that the shift servo is not a direct replacement, I had to make a mounting plate as it is a little larger. I am sorry if this has caused any problems for anyone. It is however still working great after many months of use. ![]() ![]() All was fine for a few runs until the hexes on the wheels had started to break out, the plastic used is really quite brittle. These were replaced with Boom racing aluminium hexes and Boom Racing aluminium wheels. At this time I also upgraded the rear shock towers to GPM Racing aluminium items, just 'cause I like orange. ![]() So now everything is running as it should, the high mass wheels have done wonders, keeping the truck on its wheels most of the time, I'm certainly doing less walking. It was now time to make the truck mine, so with a few basic tools and the stainless steel casing from a deceased microwave oven, I set to work. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And of course an upgraded driver ![]() I'm really pleased with my first attempt at this sort of body work, especially with the limited tools I have (no Dremel here). No doubt more things will get changed/upgraded in the future but for now I'm just waiting for a break in the weather so I can get out and run it. And I still haven't spent the cost of a genuine Twin Hammers yet. Thanks for looking. Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk Last edited by luminova11; 06-06-2017 at 01:31 AM. |
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Australia
Posts: 252
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That looks great mate :-) My second hand one has no body panels.. was it hard to do? I'm good with my hands but don't know where to start. |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Bay Area
Posts: 196
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For complex bends you may want to tape together multiple pieces of paper to create the correct shape. Of course if it's this complex you may need to either glue or weld the finished product together. Once you have everything right including the shape, bends, mounting holes, etc. you will use it to mark the cuts, and bends onto your aluminum plate. In the US, aluminum plate in varying thickenesses can be purchased at most hardware stores including Home Depot, Lowes, & Orchard Hardware Supply in addition to local commercial metals sources like Sims Metals here in N. Cal. Next you need to cut the plate. Fortunately Aluminum is soft enough that you can cut it using simple woodworking tools. For straight cuts, I used either a table or miter saw. For the more curves including complex/tight ones I used an inexpensive Ryobi scroll saw with bunch of fresh blades. Then to bend the panels, I used a bench vice and pliers or a heavy mallet. HTH. | |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Bay Area
Posts: 196
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I should add that there are tools that are more expensive but are made specifically for metal work but I find for Aluminum, the above methods are good enough for 'simple' home projects.
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Newbie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pendeen, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 49
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A bit of coastal trailing. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk Last edited by THX_138; 07-22-2016 at 09:57 PM. | |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Bunnel, Fl.
Posts: 1,281
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Nice scenery!
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Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Playing with toys with my son's
Posts: 616
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![]() | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: United States of America
Posts: 22
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So how do you like it so far? I have ordered the Hobbyking version A333, not sure if it is any different. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk |
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Newbie Join Date: May 2014 Location: Auburn, California, USA
Posts: 15
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The A333 should be the exact same truck. Ordered mine from Hobbyking as well.
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Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: United States of America
Posts: 22
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Wow, that was some quick shipping. Ordered Tuesday and it's waiting for me on Friday. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 16
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I really like that roof panel. I ended mine right at the rear roof tubing and it leaves too much of the rear exposed without the spare tire back there. Just a giant hole of nothing. lol. EDIT: LOVE the hood, too. How did you get the scallops so clean? I'd have butchered it. -Travis |
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Newbie Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Yuma, Az.
Posts: 48
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Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: United States of America
Posts: 22
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Two runs in and going great! Add shock oil and diff oil in front. Feels like a really solid deal for about $160.00. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk |
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Newbie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pendeen, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 49
| ![]() This is about 200 yards from my front door. It's on the North coast of the far West of Cornwall in the UK. My village is called Lower Boscaswell if you want to look it up on Google Earth. Quote:
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The latest upgrades; Boom Racing aluminium top links, the originals were very flexible. They are not broken or worn so will go in the spares box. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk Last edited by THX_138; 07-22-2016 at 10:01 PM. | ||
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Newbie Join Date: May 2014 Location: Auburn, California, USA
Posts: 15
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Were you having too much flex on those rear uppers? You notice the difference with the new ones? Have you replaced the lowers? Nice rig btw.
Last edited by Lubat; 03-13-2016 at 08:49 PM. |
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Newbie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pendeen, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 49
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Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #17 | |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: United States of America
Posts: 22
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Good to read your impressions of the K949 (A333). So far they mirror my own experiences. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Yuma, Az.
Posts: 48
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You may want to experiment with raising the rear upper link mount... This is about 5.65mm higher.... ![]() I also lowered the front mount about 1.5mm ![]() I haven't had a chance to test it yet....but from my previous builds, I'm sure that it's going to help. Directly from the White House to you.... |
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![]() | #19 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2014 Location: Auburn, California, USA
Posts: 15
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GCM has a nice truss they sell for the hammers that really helps with the torque twist. GCM Racing WebStore-2016 - VTH Rear Axle Truss |
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![]() | #20 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pendeen, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 49
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I've seen that raising the rear link mount helps with the torque twist. I'm going to have a rummage around in my scrap metal offcuts and see if I can find something to make one from, if not I'll probably go with the GCM one. I like their top plate and hoop set as well although I do like the look of the canti front end and personally I am not finding it restricting, but I am a newbie at this trail running/crawling game so perhaps its limitations will show as I get more experienced. Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Twin Hammers clone | Brake Weight | Non Crawler RC's | 60 | 01-20-2018 04:42 AM |
Help in binding a clone hammers please. | luminova11 | Vaterra Twin Hammers | 3 | 01-09-2016 08:55 AM |
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