Fallen's 2nd Twin Hammers

[CR4NK]

Originally Posted by MattySlimz1987

Looks awesome! The Rc4wd ones do look good on there, the Enkei style Gearheads are icing on the cake! I have set of Gearheads on my SCX2.. might get a set for the THs also! I need to invest more time (and money lol) into my THs. I love it.

Thank you sir! The GearHead ENK wheels are my favorite wheel. I can't take all the credit though, I was inspired by the pic below which I saw on google. To be honest, the set on the TH were originally intended for my SCX10 ii but I saw this pic and it was all downhill from there.

[Fallen]

Originally Posted by MattySlimz1987

No derailment of the thread that I see, I'm sure Fallen would love to see how other TH parts work.
As for the Integy housing, I'm not sure yet either. If I dont find an Rc4wd unit here soon or another company does not produce one, it may actually be one of our more viable options.

Yeah, no worries on the "thread jack." As long as we're talking about a Twin Hammers (not necessarily mine), no thread jack has occurred in my thinking.

Those Gear Head wheels do look really sweet. If I wasn't as concerned about money, I'd have a set of those on mine. The standard "black tires on black wheels" has pretty much been done to death, but since I saw my wheels for sale for cheap, I've gone the way of the dinosaur in terms of wheel/tire fashion. Which I'm okay with considering that the rest of my fashion choices place me somewhere around 1994.

In terms of the Integy axle housing, if you're only crawling with yours it would be worth a try. If you're doing any high speed driving though I think it'd turn out to be a waste of time and money. I think the biggest knock on the Integy housing is the price. $100 for an Integy part? That seems like paying $45 for a McDonald's hamburger. The Currie housing for the SCX10 from Vanquish is an option, but it takes a bit more work to get it bolted up and working. It looks super rad though!

[CR4NK]

Originally Posted by Fallen

Yeah, no worries on the "thread jack." As long as we're talking about a Twin Hammers (not necessarily mine), no thread jack has occurred in my thinking.

Those Gear Head wheels do look really sweet. If I wasn't as concerned about money, I'd have a set of those on mine. The standard "black tires on black wheels" has pretty much been done to death, but since I saw my wheels for sale for cheap, I've gone the way of the dinosaur in terms of wheel/tire fashion. Which I'm okay with considering that the rest of my fashion choices place me somewhere around 1994.

In terms of the Integy axle housing, if you're only crawling with yours it would be worth a try. If you're doing any high speed driving though I think it'd turn out to be a waste of time and money. I think the biggest knock on the Integy housing is the price. $100 for an Integy part? That seems like paying $45 for a McDonald's hamburger. The Currie housing for the SCX10 from Vanquish is an option, but it takes a bit more work to get it bolted up and working. It looks super rad though!

Thanks for that. Regarding the integy axle, you say "if you're doing any high speed driving though I think it'd turn out to be a waste of time and money". Can you please elaborate for me? To be honest, I'm looking to do both crawling and high speed driving. I'm just wondering why it would be a waste for high speed and not crawling or both. Thanks for taking the time out.

[Fallen]

Thanks for asking. Integy has a reputation within the RC industry for producing parts that fail, even under "normal" usage.

The reason that I would trust it for crawling and not high speed driving is because with an increase in speed comes an increase in the number of catastrophic crashes. Crawling is a low speed, technical puzzle, where crashes aren't as common and the crashes that do happen aren't catastrophic. A Twin Hammers in high gear, using a 2S or 3S battery is going to have some catastrophic crashes, and since that's part of the fun, you want parts that can survive catastrophic crashes.

What I foresee from that Integy housing, is that someone will pay $100 for it, then take the time to remove the old axle (10 minutes), then swap all the axle internals into the new housing (probably about 20 minutes), then install it (another 15 minutes), then go drive it for a few battery packs only to have it fail after couple of catastrophic crashes.

I don't mind when parts fail, if I've gotten 40 or 50 battery packs out of them, but Integy's reputation leads me to think that isn't what I'd get.

I'd love to see Integy prove me wrong on this though, and it'll obviously take someone trying it to make that happen. But I don't gamble on $100 parts. If I'm paying that much, I need to know that my $100 and 45 minutes of work isn't going to be wasted, and then I'll need to spend another 45 minutes putting the old axle housing back on.

Unfortunately, the Integy name doesn't instill $100 worth of confidence in me, but as stated, I hope somebody proves me wrong.

[CR4NK]

Originally Posted by Fallen

Thanks for asking. Integy has a reputation within the RC industry for producing parts that fail, even under "normal" usage.

The reason that I would trust it for crawling and not high speed driving is because with an increase in speed comes an increase in the number of catastrophic crashes. Crawling is a low speed, technical puzzle, where crashes aren't as common and the crashes that do happen aren't catastrophic. A Twin Hammers in high gear, using a 2S or 3S battery is going to have some catastrophic crashes, and since that's part of the fun, you want parts that can survive catastrophic crashes.

What I foresee from that Integy housing, is that someone will pay $100 for it, then take the time to remove the old axle (10 minutes), then swap all the axle internals into the new housing (probably about 20 minutes), then install it (another 15 minutes), then go drive it for a few battery packs only to have it fail after couple of catastrophic crashes.

I don't mind when parts fail, if I've gotten 40 or 50 battery packs out of them, but Integy's reputation leads me to think that isn't what I'd get.

I'd love to see Integy prove me wrong on this though, and it'll obviously take someone trying it to make that happen. But I don't gamble on $100 parts. If I'm paying that much, I need to know that my $100 and 45 minutes of work isn't going to be wasted, and then I'll need to spend another 45 minutes putting the old axle housing back on.

Unfortunately, the Integy name doesn't instill $100 worth of confidence in me, but as stated, I hope somebody proves me wrong.

Exactly what I wanted to know...AND MORE! Thanks for taking the time Fallen! I will be much more careful in considering this part.

[Fallen]

Update on the Silly-Putty differential oil:

Apparently, you do need to seal the differential when using Silly Putty as a diff oil. After a few months, my Silly Putty had all squished out, leaving me with an open diff and a strange clicking noise when the passenger side front wheel was jammed up. I opened up the diff housing to find Silly Putty all over the place in there, and almost none inside the diff. Fortunately, Silly Putty is extremely easy to clean off, ball up, and put back in.

This makes sense in light of the phenomena I experienced, that immediately after installing the Silly Putty, it was basically a locked diff, but within a few hours of driving it, the diff was much looser.

Annoyingly enough, I couldn't find my diff gasket when reassembling the diff, so I left it unsealed again. Right after I had the front end all put back together, I found the diff gasket (of course). A few months from now when it needs to be repacked, I'll seal it back up then.

[Adakar]

I use grey silicone used in car engines to seal the differentials

If you want something more agressive use silkaflex 221 but the grey sillicone for engines works fine.

[Fallen]

I recently made some scale appearance changes, and a few neat suspension changes to my Twin Hammers. But before I write about those, I know you guys are primarily concerned with the photos, so on to the pictures. These photos are from a drainage ditch near my house.









I added some scale items from Pro-Line: a shovel, a prybar, an axe, and a hi-lift jack, all zip-tied to some part of the cage.

After getting tired of waiting for someone to produce highly reliable, internally sprung shocks, I thought, "hey, my shocks have been very reliable, so why not just turn them into internally sprung shocks?" I couldn't answer that question, so that's what I did.

I had bought a set of Boom Racing, Boomerangs in 100mm which turned out to not work on the front or the rear of my Twin Hammers. My idea had been to internally limit them to use them as fronts, but the shock body is too long for that. So I stole the springs out of those, and installed them inside of the shock bodies on my current, leak-proof shocks.

Now my old shocks have that internally sprung look, and a better spring rate than they had before. Now that my front suspension actually moves, and isn't at full-droop 100% of the time, crawling performance has been improved. High speed performance? I wouldn't know. I drive other vehicles for high-speed kicks, and my Twin Hammers is still just my crawler.

I hope you enjoyed the pictures! Keep on building and driving.

[Fallen]

I recently made some scale appearance changes, and a few neat suspension changes to my Twin Hammers. But before I write about those, I know you guys are primarily concerned with the photos, so on to the pictures. These photos are from a drainage ditch near my house.









I added some scale items from Pro-Line: a shovel, a prybar, an axe, and a hi-lift jack, all zip-tied to some part of the cage.

After getting tired of waiting for someone to produce highly reliable, internally sprung shocks, I thought, "hey, my shocks have been very reliable, so why not just turn them into internally sprung shocks?" I couldn't answer that question, so that's what I did. I had bought a set of Boom Racing, Boomerangs in 100mm which turned out to not work on the front or the rear of my Twin Hammers. My idea had been to internally limit them to use them as fronts, but the shock body is too long for that. So I stole the springs out of those, and installed them inside of the shock bodies on my current, leak-proof shocks. Now my old shocks have that internally sprung look, and a better spring rate than they had before. Now that my front suspension actually moves, and isn't at full-droop 100% of the time, crawling performance has been improved. High speed performance? I wouldn't know. I drive other vehicles for high-speed kicks, and my Twin Hammers is still just my crawler.

I hope you enjoyed the pictures! Keep on building and driving.

[Fallen]

My Twin Hammers is no longer mine. It has been traded away for this creation, by krazykrawler:




Hopefully it enjoys its new life in Louisiana!

[krazykrawler]

Extremely excited about this new rig that's coming. I'm so glad the trophy truck will get ran. It just sat on the shelf after it was completed

[Fallen]

And run it will. I'm pumped to start the suspension tuning on that trophy truck. You might have already done it, but since she sat on the shelf mostly, I assume that suspension tuning is yet to be done.

I might take it with me to the beach next weekend, and in the meantime, mount up some dirt tires and get to tuning!

[krazykrawler]

Yea, rear suspension could use tweaking. It has plenty of droop but not much on up travel. I was thinking it could use some King shocks designed for the yeti .