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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Hi Everyone. After reading about the clone hammers for months I got interested in this little car. Its so cheap with good enough reviews that I ordered myself one. Now, with me living in South Africa, I wanted to keep it as simple as possible to maintain over the long run. The 380 size motors was not an option and with the abundance of 540's lying around I decided to use my available spares to build it. First off was a adapter for the motor: ![]() As a test I have only made a 3mm Plexi plate for now. Running a Mabuchi 540. Very simple modification. Two screws secure the adaptor to the stock motor mount with a third one securing the motor to the whole lot. Pics will follow. Also not running LiPo but my NiMh packs for my other cars. Steering servo is a Corona CS238MG. QuicRun 1060 ESC and a budget Volantex Radio that I had. Total cost is less than $100US. I stripped both differentials to re-grease properly, aligned all the sock lengths, secured all the screws with locktite blue, double checked everything. First run was better than expected. Ran it on a 3300 pack that had a couple of minutes high speed runs in one of my other cars. It wheelie'd off the bat and ran very nicely. Till the clutch support bearing decided to eat itself up. Got a new one in, delighted to see that no other damage occurred to anything else... Since then I have run probably 6 packs through it with no problems at all. High speed bashing and basic crawling and it seems fine. I just need to find my scrap 3mm Alu plates in the workshop to make a better plate. Updates and pics to come next time. Last edited by HugoBiermann; 09-19-2017 at 01:22 PM. |
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 404
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Sorry to say but if it has a 380, it's not a twin hammers. It's the shrunk clone Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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I know. 1/12 clone. I thought I could post here since they are quite popular and for reference to whoever is interested? Its cheap and cheerful and is actually quite fun thus far. |
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![]() | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 404
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yeah they fun. Sorry wasnt being a dick. Just trying to inform incase you were buying TH parts and would be sorely dissapointed. but yeah the 1/12th scales acheive pretty impressive speed from that tiny 380 motor. Good luck. |
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![]() | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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LOL. Now worries! Will get to the plates as soon as possible though and post some pics. Swamped at work though. |
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![]() | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Some pics of my FY03. Using standard Ni-Mh batteries. At high speeds I get between 10-15min, on grass. Basic slow crawling probably 30-40. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Work that I have done on the stock kit after a few runs: Stripped the gearbox and both diffs again. The rear diff got a bit noisy. This time I packed both diffs solid with Castrol BNS grease. I use it on my bmx's and have used it in my Tamiya gearboxes. Its dead quiet now and runs super smooth. Might have some pushing through the seams but thats not a problem. All the bearings were also stuffed with bns. The grease is sticky but I am sure it will help the pot cast parts last. I noticed that the 540 gets super hot on full speed runs. Its only a simple silver can that came with my Tamiya kits. Will stick a heat sink on there as soon as I can get one. When crawling along or just running a trail it hardly gets warm. The esc actually feels warmer. The shocks. Lol. The front ones actually works cool. There isn't any bad bouncing. Its actually good enough just like that. The rear is another story. Especially with the weight of a Ni-Mh stick above them. I ended up using all the pre load available to help with roll. Will look into some filled shocks in time. Its at least not as bad as my Lunchbox. Although the Lunchie should be that bad... The car seems like it wants to flip ass over head through a dip. I noticed the tires also got 'softer' after a while. A good thing. And they are grippy enough for what you get. Climbing nice and steep par ramps with ease. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Found 3mm alu today. See pics below. Original plate material is bloody hard. The adaptor is super stiff now. The plexi test plate and the 3mm alu: ![]() Holes drilled and tapped: ![]() Plates mounted together: ![]() ![]() Mounted to 540: ![]() ![]() Mounted to gearbox: ![]() Esc placement and mod to be able to switch between f/b/r and drag brake: ![]() Using the factory switch, trimmed the connector to fit in the jumper gap: ![]() ![]() Battery tray adaption: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Servo: ![]() Some pics: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Caldwell ID.
Posts: 4,319
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Quick tuning tip. If you get your rear shocks more upright you will have more percieved spring rate. The shocks will work more stiff, and the "dampening" will be more effective.
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![]() | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Thanks! Going to get oil filled in time. They are a bit too bouncy. Will see then Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Had the FY03 out on a trail today. My girlfriend took my Lunchbox. The Fy03 performed flawlessly up until the corona servo died half way through. What a shlep. The Lunchie got through like the champ it is lol. So I decided that I should look at a standard servo in there. I’ve got a whole bunch of older servos and eventually settled with a Sanwa 1301. Is slow and low torque but it will last longer than this car I’m sure. Took a bit of imagination but it works. Will be out there again soon and will see how long it lasts. ![]() Hugp |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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I've got one as well and have a thread somewhere on here. I tried a 540 swap but quickly gave up after ruining a motor mount. You're plate idea was my next move to make but I never made one. I just broke down and went brushless with a HobbyKing Donkey 380 in 3000kV flavor. It'll pull wheelies on 2s and standing flips on 3s. I missed some oil shocks to fit in the rear and left the front original. Locked the rear with a smear of 2-part epoxy across the degreased spider gears and left the front open. It rarely gets driven anymore. As a matter of fact, I've pulled the Rx out and put it into another to get it going. ![]() |
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![]() | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Lol. Thats a lot of power to that tiny diff. Shame. I’m enjoying this stupid little car quite a bit though. The cost and the potential performance is the key here. I could not believe the routes I could go through earlier today. Ran it slow with drag brake and it just did it. No problems except for the tiny wheels. I think the 540 makes the difference too. And then! No steering, lol. Hugo |
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![]() | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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A Losi MSX14 is nearly a direct fit. It will fit if you walk the screws for the mount down little by little. A Spektrum A5030 is a direct fit. It's an aircraft servo. So that size should be fairly common at hobby shops. A little pricey, but it's metal gears. Edit for clarification of Spektrum servo. It is not the 6020, it is the 5030. Last edited by Brake Weight; 10-12-2017 at 08:59 AM. |
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![]() | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Thanks Brake Weight. Will keep that in mind. The servo bracket was cut op to be able to accommodate the standard size servo. Its in and driving fine for now. Hugo |
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![]() | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Was messing with it in the yard earlier and decided to see if taking out the adjusters on the front shocks would give me more ‘realistic’ articulation. They’re out and the front is nice and soft with zero droop. I don’t run it fast so it wont be a problem. Climbing over things looks much better now and there is more rubber touching than before. Should have done it long ago. Hugo |
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![]() | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Had the front diff's bearings collapse last night. Replaced them stainless steel units. |
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![]() | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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A video of the buggy in my small front yard. Fresh 3300 NiMh. It pulls the wheelie for 5m and more on a smoother surface. https://youtu.be/HwmSJc23cA4 Thus far the only breakdowns were caused by the dodgy stock bearings. Most of them have been replaced with proper ones. Hugo Last edited by HugoBiermann; 11-28-2017 at 12:07 PM. |
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![]() | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Measured the wheelie earlier on. Got it past the 10m mark. https://youtu.be/K19IVXaeh5g Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Africa
Posts: 434
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Rear drive shaft is starting to wear. Universals are looking awful, lol. Almost four months of bashing. Diff’s seem fine. Clutch have been lost long ago and is locked tightly. Will be looking at ordering the upgrade shafts as soon as Banggood shows stock. Might just order a spare set of diff’s just to have some in the bin. I’m probably spending money that I shouldn’t , but the buggy’s still a fun runner. Shock springs settled in and seem to be less ‘springy’. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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