Options for vertical front shocks? Options for rear setup?

[Brake Weight]

It's not that much longer. Looks like it's supposed to have them.

[smog]

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

What upper links are you running with those Yeti trailing arms?

Blue Monkey

[smog]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

It's not that much longer. Looks like it's supposed to have them.

I would agree mostly, though in person the thing looks lankier from certain angles.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by SMOG

I would agree mostly, though in person the thing looks lankier from certain angles.

There are some shorter trailing arms that may work. The 1/12 clone FEIYUE FY03 uses 96mm arms whereas the TH are 116mm. I have one of them and a spare set of arms, too. The only problem is they use m2.5 hardware.

[Brake Weight]

Found this. Anyone actually running this?

Originally Posted by wblteen

You can use an Axial Yeti front shock mount (not the xl). It will bolt right in and it is much cheaper than any other option

Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk

[wblteen]

I bought it but never ran it. Ended up buying a GCM plate before I could try ir

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[smog]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Found this. Anyone actually running this?

Only in my Exo Buggy

[Rotare]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I added to the title to broaden the thread some.

My search wording may be incorrect, but this is for those running the Yeti/Bomber/SMT rear trailing arms. TH arms are 116mm and the Axial arms are 142mm. The Axial are 26mm/1" longer. I haven't seen any real comparisons for lower mounting location of the shock. I know the Yeti 380 is slightly bigger and heavier as I have one.

Would it be a reasonable assumption that I could run the Axial arms with the 128mm Yeti rear shock vs TH arm and 110mm shock? Spring rate and dampening would need to be tuned.

Then in the front the 92mm Yeti shock with an upright mount? IIRC from yesterday's google session, the BMRC and GCM call for an 85mm shock. The front Yeti's can't really be shortened externally but can be 'shimmed' internally with a bumpstop quite easily. The Scorched kit called for an 80mm shock with 20mm worth of compression. Claimed this was exact range of the TH driveshafts.

What are you hoping to gain with running longer trailing arms?

I ran yeti length trailing arms in mine for a while. It did seem to provide some more articulation in the rear, but because of the longer wheel base I noticed the TH got hung up on stuff more often than when I ran the stock length trailing arms. I'm more of a basher than anything else, and no suspension tuning expert, but I couldn't pick any improvement in high speed handling either, so put stock units back on....

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by SMOG

Only in my Exo Buggy

I put two on my Exo for the body posts. But I have the leftover from the Exo I can use or at least use as a starting template for a homemade mount.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by Rotare

What are you hoping to gain with running longer trailing arms?



I ran yeti length trailing arms in mine for a while. It did seem to provide some more articulation in the rear, but because of the longer wheel base I noticed the TH got hung up on stuff more often than when I ran the stock length trailing arms. I'm more of a basher than anything else, and no suspension tuning expert, but I couldn't pick any improvement in high speed handling either, so put stock units back on....

Just because I have several sets of Yeti/SMT TArms. It will stay stock for several months.

[smog]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I put two on my Exo for the body posts. But I have the leftover from the Exo I can use or at least use as a starting template for a homemade mount.

Clearly it is a useful piece.

It is a simple option I never thought to try with the TH. Post up a pic if you do a mock-up. I a man very curious to see it done.

Edit: you did that to bypass the difficult access to the Exo's guts?

[Brake Weight]

I got the Exo as a roller with a hack job Wraith cage attached. Good deal at the time... Now the Exo cages are sky high. I had this body with almost the perfect wheelbase I figured it make a cool SCT styled basher. So far so good once I've gotten CVDs in it.

[Brake Weight]

Well. I swapped the ESC plug over to deans and charged up a 2s lipo. Took it for a spin around the yard and the 2 speed to set up great. But it kept rolling over and I gave it a closer inspection. It seems the front diff is toast. Neither wheel spins when throttled and the driveshaft is spinning. Looks like my killer deal may be on par after the repair. Oh well. It is clean though.

[meatmonkey]

The TH diffs are pretty rugid, so unless someone ran them with the bearings extremely worn for a while they are likely fine.

Check the grub screws on the front driveshaft, they like to loosen up after initial assembly as everything "takes a set".

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

The TH diffs are pretty rugid, so unless someone ran them with the bearings extremely worn for a while they are likely fine.



Check the grub screws on the front driveshaft, they like to loosen up after initial assembly as everything "takes a set".

Forgot to update that. Found both screws loose. I was doing body panels and was gonna do some sort of thread.

[smog]

The set screws on the front drive shaft break loose regularly for me since dropping the 10.5T sensored motor into my rig. It is a huge PITA when out on a run. Wish there was an upgrade.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by smog

The set screws on the front drive shaft break loose regularly for me since dropping the 10.5T sensored motor into my rig. It is a huge PITA when out on a run. Wish there was an upgrade.

I was thinking that it was a poor setup. I didn't document and am thinking 'out loud', but will an Axial shaft fit? That way a pin can be ran all the way through it.

[smog]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I was thinking that it was a poor setup. I didn't document and am thinking 'out loud', but will an Axial shaft fit? That way a pin can be ran all the way through it.

I have no idea. Can't say I have tried to fit one. If it does it would be the first I have heard of it. When MIP made drive shafts for the TH, they only made the rear piece because apparently the front lacked the space required to fit one.

[wblteen]

Originally Posted by smog

The set screws on the front drive shaft break loose regularly for me since dropping the 10.5T sensored motor into my rig. It is a huge PITA when out on a run. Wish there was an upgrade.

I took the diff to work. Center punched where the set screw hits and used a drill press to slightly notch the shaft. That way the set screw notches in. No problems since

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[onecool54@yahoo]

Originally Posted by CR4NK

I have the Sr Irie bell-crank kit (stock susp.) on my TH. I wonder of I can somehow use the blue monkey shock kit in conjunction with my bell-crank kit? Maybe layer or sandwich the BM shock tower kit and the Irie kit at a certain point to make it work. I’m sure some modification to the BM kit would have to be done to achieve it but I’m willing to try. Hmmmmmm

You can use the derwood designs front shock tower with the St. IRIE bell crank setup.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk