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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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I've finally stumbled across a helluva deal on a used Twin Hammers. It's just now getting mailed out to me today but I'm ready to do a few mods. What are the option for a vertical front mount shock setup? I've seen a few but don't know if I've missed anything that's still readily available. I may try to make one styled like the BMRC using 2mm aluminum. Price point of these three goes to BMRC and looks/style to GCM. BlueMonkey ![]() GCM ![]() The 3D Scorcher isn't completely vertical and doesn't allow for a front battery mount. ![]() |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Australia
Posts: 56
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Not sure 2mm aluminium will be thick enough and will likely bend out of shape. I've made mine from 3mm alumium and it seems to hold up.
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: San Diego
Posts: 200
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I've got the scorched parts. The inclusion of the bell crank steering makes it a good piece of kit. Well made and looks good. Looks really nice with the desert truck body. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #4 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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Does it take any slop out of the steering or does it just integrate the bell rank because it can? I would assUme that the front end would be softer than with an upright shock even with much stiffer springs and dampening. | |
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Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
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The only one you have not mentioned that I know of was made by Sr.Irie, but he hasn't been around for awhile. No one seems to know if he will be coming back. The Scorched Parts and GCM pieces have been amazing. The GCM plate is heavy and ideal for getting your weight more forward. I would go for the Scorched Parts for a more balanced rig. I also have the Blue Monkey piece on a TH chassis with an SCX10 transmission , but I haven't dropped electronics into it yet. |
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Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
| ![]() It definitely tightens up the steering. It is a well designed setup. Dbx, the designer, is on here. It appears clear to me he sets a high bar for his designs.
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: San Diego
Posts: 200
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Also to note, he is creating a standard upright shock based off the st irie kit which will be available soon. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk | |
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Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
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Personally I think the cantilevered setup looks killer on the TH. | |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Posts: 192
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I agree with Smog's comment about the GCM plate being heavy. I had it for a while and the TH seemed nose heavy for high speed running. It is great if you are only doing slow speed crawling. I went back to the stock shock setup with lighter oil in the shocks and I think it handles better. I have the Shapeways bellcrank assembly on order to tighten up the steering.
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Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Midlands
Posts: 317
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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Thanks for the insight. I'll have another look tonight.
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Pebble Pounder ![]() Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: USA
Posts: 180
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I have the Sr Irie bell-crank kit (stock susp.) on my TH. I wonder of I can somehow use the blue monkey shock kit in conjunction with my bell-crank kit? Maybe layer or sandwich the BM shock tower kit and the Irie kit at a certain point to make it work. I’m sure some modification to the BM kit would have to be done to achieve it but I’m willing to try. Hmmmmmm
Last edited by CR4NK; 09-21-2017 at 07:26 PM. |
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Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
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No matter, your cantilevered design is excellent. | |
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![]() | #14 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: San Diego
Posts: 200
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![]() | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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I added to the title to broaden the thread some. My search wording may be incorrect, but this is for those running the Yeti/Bomber/SMT rear trailing arms. TH arms are 116mm and the Axial arms are 142mm. The Axial are 26mm/1" longer. I haven't seen any real comparisons for lower mounting location of the shock. I know the Yeti 380 is slightly bigger and heavier as I have one. Would it be a reasonable assumption that I could run the Axial arms with the 128mm Yeti rear shock vs TH arm and 110mm shock? Spring rate and dampening would need to be tuned. Then in the front the 92mm Yeti shock with an upright mount? IIRC from yesterday's google session, the BMRC and GCM call for an 85mm shock. The front Yeti's can't really be shortened externally but can be 'shimmed' internally with a bumpstop quite easily. The Scorched kit called for an 80mm shock with 20mm worth of compression. Claimed this was exact range of the TH driveshafts. Last edited by Brake Weight; 09-22-2017 at 06:08 PM. |
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![]() | #16 |
Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
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I am running RC4WD 110mm shocks with Yeti trailing arms in the rear. They work well. Depending on your mounting points I am imagine the 128mm shocks could fit, but I would imagine you would be pushing your limits. The 85mm shocks with the GCM front shock tower already require an internal shim to limit travel. IIRC, to prevent the dogbone CV end from popping out. |
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![]() | #17 |
Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
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The yellow one has the Yeti Trailing arms and 110mm King Shocks ![]() |
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![]() | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South
Posts: 3,438
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I see what you're saying. Would you take a pic of both of them side by side and on their roofs? I think I'll keep it in stock form for a few months then do the front suspension. |
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Slow is the new Fast ![]() Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Winterpeg
Posts: 2,780
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![]() | #20 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Marietta
Posts: 917
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What upper links are you running with those Yeti trailing arms?
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