Front shocks

[sgtlt]

So I found out why the Rtr front shocks are so bad. I removed mine to install soft springs and found out that the Rtr springs are so stiff they are hard to compress by hand. Also the stock shock fluid is so thick the shock is hard to move. Went with the factory soft spring and the lightest fluid I had on hand 27.5. They feel WAY better now. Will test as soon as possible and report back

[89redranger]

The stock springs and dampening with these cars is about spot-on honestly, and are so stiff due to the compounding leverage ratios of the a-arms and cantilevers (seriously, check out a brand new car). The firmness you're feeling is most likely actually drag from the 6 rod ends at each corner that get sticky with as little as a tiny amount of dust, and the a-arm hinge pins. As a matter of fact, almost every complaint about these cars is as a result of all that drag.

A little bit of dirt and grime just about seizes the front suspension solid. Clean your rod ends, ream your a-arms so they can cycle freely on the hinge pins, and don't use any kind of lube that attracts dust. Graphite or a PTFE based dry lube will be your best friend here.

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[Damatheus]

Also the front suspension is set up to absorb jumps and hard landings common in U4 racing.

Good for that, not so good for crawling.

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[sgtlt]

Mine is only used for crawling and trail running, no jumping or bashing. Thanks for the info

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Damatheus

Also the front suspension is set up to absorb jumps and hard landings common in U4 racing.

Good for that, not so good for crawling.

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Even as a crawler, they work great...until things get sticky. My car has no issues flexing the complete range of travel even at a crawl. But it's getting an upright tower just like my last few...because keeping all that stuff clean and moving freely is a tedious ass chore. Lol, half a battery pack at best.

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[Damatheus]

Originally Posted by sgtlt

Mine is only used for crawling and trail running, no jumping or bashing. Thanks for the info

If you're serious about turning the TH into a crawler I recommend the Scorched Parts upright front shock/steering kit. This will give you good travel, relocate the steering servo, and let you move your battery into the tub. Tub located battery is a million times better vfor crawling.

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[Damatheus]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Even as a crawler, they work great...until things get sticky. My car has no issues flexing the complete range of travel even at a crawl. But it's getting an upright tower just like my last few...because keeping all that stuff clean and moving freely is a tedious ass chore. Lol, half a battery pack at best.

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I agree, they work well in clean condition I got tired of cleaning mine so much I removed them. The setup is not bad, and it looks cool

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[jgrim]

I use mine for general trail running also, and I went thinner on the shock oil. 35 wt in front with stock springs, 15 wt in back with 1.8 lb/in springs. Handles much nicer for me without the rear end kicking up every time I go over a bump.

[Jim85IROC]

Converting my Clone Hammers to upright shocks with the battery up front made a night and day difference in the crawling capabilities of the vehicle. In my case, the cheap shocks on the clone hammers just made the lay down setup even worse, but as others mentioned, there are so many sources of friction in that setup that if it's not 100% perfect, it's awful. Going with stand-up shocks fixes all of that, and getting your battery up front helps a ton with climbing.

[Nosam]

I tried starting a new thread, but hasn't posted yet... So I'll ask here

Has anyone tried using a yeti front shock tower on their twin hammers? I've seen a couple people mention that it's an option, but would like to know if it's a good option.