c0bra's twin hammers dt build

[c0bra]

Last year I had a regular th kit traded it off just before the dt body came out.

So about a month or so ago I picked up a used th roller that was an rtr. It was in pretty good shape but definitely showed signs of wear on the chassis, and trailing arms. Everything was there though including the gears to unlock the front diff.

The plan for this is to build it into a fast basher and will see no crawling. To start the build I picked up a set of metal transmission gears, new front arms and metal hexs. Also picked up a screw kit and fast eddy bearings for it. I also trimmed the body to clear a vp light bar.





So far the transmission has been rebuilt with the metal gears, new bearings, stainless screws, as well as fresh grease. It is locked in high gear as well. The rear axle was built with stainless screws, new bearings and fresh grease. The rear shocks have fresh 30wt oil in them.


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[c0bra]

It's now a complete roller without and steering parts in it. I'm still debating on which shapeways steering set up to go with.

But the front is rebuilt with fresh grease, 10k diff fluid and new bearings. The stock rtr shocks have 30wt in them as well.

The motor that's currently in it is a castle 6900kv, im going to replace it for either a 3800kv or 4600kv. Esc will most likely be a mmp to have the option for sensored if i decide to go that route. The battery will be a shorty venom 2s 3800mah 60c, I've had it sitting around for years and surprisingly it took a charge so I'll use it


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[c0bra]

I can't decide if I want to go with the mmp/3800kv or a tekin rs gen2/10.5t sensored combo.

Any opinions?


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[Dbx]

Originally Posted by c0bra

I can't decide if I want to go with the mmp/3800kv or a tekin rs gen2/10.5t sensored combo.

Any opinions?


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My vote would be the sensored. Having run sensored and unsensored set-ups in mine, i've come to value the smoothness and flexibility of a good sensored motor, even when not crawling.

[c0bra]

Originally Posted by Dbx

My vote would be the sensored. Having run sensored and unsensored set-ups in mine, i've come to value the smoothness and flexibility of a good sensored motor, even when not crawling.

I am more leaning towards sensored, I am going to most likely be running a ds1015 servo.

Also I'm still debating on going with your stand up front shock set up. Every other set up you can buy won't clear the body without cutting it. The cuts on the front look funny to me.

[Dbx]

Yes, I wanted to avoid any permanent mods like cutting the body or frame. Paticuarly relevent on the DT. A nice, clean mod that looks like factory fit was the aim.
Don't underestimate the value of the getting the battery really low. This was a big plus for me.
Your prefered choice of shocks also comes into the equation. Matching the length, travel, and brand personal preference is worth a bit of thought.

[smog]

I have the Tekin RS GenII paired with a 10.5T in one of my Twin Hammers. It has been perfect for me. It is quick enough to rip across the open spaces and still has a nice smooth low end for the type of crawling I would say the rig is genuinely suited to. For me it is the ideal set up so I can only recommend it

[c0bra]

Originally Posted by SMOG

I have the Tekin RS GenII paired with a 10.5T in one of my Twin Hammers. It has been perfect for me. It is quick enough to rip across the open spaces and still has a nice smooth low end for the type of crawling I would say the rig is genuinely suited to. For me it is the ideal set up so I can only recommend it

Thanks that's what I was hoping for with the 10.5t

Originally Posted by Dbx

Yes, I wanted to avoid any permanent mods like cutting the body or frame. Paticuarly relevent on the DT. A nice, clean mod that looks like factory fit was the aim.
Don't underestimate the value of the getting the battery really low. This was a big plus for me.
Your prefered choice of shocks also comes into the equation. Matching the length, travel, and brand personal preference is worth a bit of thought.

I'm probably going to go with both the stand up shocks, battery mount, and esc mount. The issue is I'm not exactly sure were to find the needed o ring for the battery since I live in the states. I have an idea though to fix that problem, just may have to remove 2 screws every time I want to change the battery.

For shocks I'm thinking about going with team associated 12mm big bores, the short course versions for front and rear. I won't know until I get the parts in and take the shocks off my sc10gt to test fit them.


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[c0bra]

Ordered a Tekin rs gen2/ redline 10.5t combo and a team associated ds1015 servo from tower.

Once I order and get all the shapeways parts in I'll get it all installed and see how the big bores fit.


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[Dbx]

Originally Posted by c0bra

The issue is I'm not exactly sure were to find the needed o ring for the battery since I live in the states.

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Have a look on ebay for the o rings - there are lots of options there. You can get 10 for £1

[c0bra]

Originally Posted by Dbx

Have a look on ebay for the o rings - there are lots of options there. You can get 10 for £1

Thanks! I'll look there when i place the order for the shocks


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[c0bra]

The electronics came in and I got the motor mounted, still have to get a pinion gear but I'm not sure were to start.

Also I removed the entire front shock set up so it's ready for the new parts that I haven't ordered yet


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[c0bra]

Designed and cut out a custom battery mount out of styrene, will need to make it out of aluminum. Also made a esc mount out of styrene as well. Should be able to set up the wiring so it's fairly clean. The switch though will be attached near an upper shock mount on the inside so it's easily accessed with the body on



Also ran the wiring for the light bar along the drivers side of the cage to keep it clean. Once the body is painted, you will only see the wires in one spot thru the windshield.


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[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Dbx

Yes, I wanted to avoid any permanent mods like cutting the body or frame. Paticuarly relevent on the DT. A nice, clean mod that looks like factory fit was the aim.
Don't underestimate the value of the getting the battery really low. This was a big plus for me.
Your prefered choice of shocks also comes into the equation. Matching the length, travel, and brand personal preference is worth a bit of thought.

That's a sweet setup, shocks under the hood, new steering arms, etc., very nice!

[c0bra]

The build stalled out and ended up being cut up for a 1.9 ifs wraith however it is coming back!

Today I placed an order with amain and shapeways! I have a twin hammers kit, clear dt body, protek 130ss servo and a scorched parts bellcrank conversion that will all be here next week!

I will be building this with u4rc 1.9 ifs class in mind although I’ve never raced or competed with an rc before.


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[c0bra]

Steering conversion came in yesterday, some how it was delivered an hour BEFORE shapeways ever shipped it???

And after seeing a post in another thread by WesleyRoy, I ordered a couple 32p spur gears and slipper pads so I can run a pro4/mmp


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[c0bra]

The all important box will hopefully be tomorrow as long as USPS doesn’t pull a fed ex!

Will have to stop by the lhs or a hardware store most likely Wednesday to pick up the required m3x40 cap head screw for the steering.


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[c0bra]

The box came in!

Got the build started on it, no pics yet. Note worthy setting to start off are transmission is locked in high, running team associated 10k diff fluid in an open front diff, green (firm) sway bar out back, silver (middle) up front. Also got the bellcranks mounted, as well as roughly made the 2 links. Will fine tune them tomorrow. I’m also going to try and run the stock protek servo horn. Motor and esc will be a castle 4600kv combo and I believe a 26t pinion. Receiver will be for an mt4


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[c0bra]

The twin hammers dt is finally built!

The body is painted with duratrax metallic blue and black, then backed in white but I unfortunately didn’t wash the body very well so it didn’t turn out very well.


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[Damatheus]

Originally Posted by c0bra

The twin hammers dt is finally built!

The body is painted with duratrax metallic blue and black, then backed in white but I unfortunately didn’t wash the body very well so it didn’t turn out very well.


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Looks great! I love the DT body for the hammers. And the scorched parts shocks look good on the kit.

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