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![]() | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: California
Posts: 1
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None of this would be possible without Jim85IROC! Thank you for the files on the mod and the videos on how to properly install it. I also printed scx10 control arms that worked very well. You inspired me to get a wltoys and a 3D printer. I kept the original steering and the servos. Used this set up on mine and my dads and it really works well, I’ve noticed the front suspension can take a lot more bashing before breaking any components. Also upgraded to vaterra front differential cups and axles. Seems to work a lot better and haven’t broken them yet. Just wanted to say my thanks!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #2 |
Moderator ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,511
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Welcome to the site! Jim has a lot of great ideas.
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![]() | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Hilton (Rochester)
Posts: 10
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I have a WLToys 10428-B, just like Jim's, and I have done his mods. That big grin of his when he shows the front hinge with rear magnets is spot on. It's a GREAT mod. The trick to getting his mods to work is to get good quality printed parts. I tried using a printer at a local library and the big part didn't come out right. I had a guy re-print it for me and it worked out great. I haven't decided on whether to do the same to my newly acquired Twin Hammers. It has a one-piece stock body and I'd prefer not to have to butcher the hood and its supports, but there aren't as many upgrade/ mod parts out there anymore. I just may do it all over again on my TH. P.S. If you do his battery tray, it helps to use some of the 3-M anti-slip stuff to keep the battery from sliding around. Last edited by kodakjack; 02-26-2021 at 08:07 PM. |
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