Fallen's 3rd (and final) Twin Hammers

[Fallen]

I was fortunate to score a built, but not run kit Twin Hammers in a local trade. It came with all of the electronics and light bar. All I've done to this thing is paint some stuff and install my FPV system.

The Twin Hammers is an awesome FPV platform. Scale looking interior and ridiculously stable suspension combined with a drivetrain that goes over just about anything combine to make an ideal FPV car.

Anyway, here's some photos:





Electronics are the Castle SW3 with the 3800KV motor. Stock gearing, with an ESC and motor fan. This set-up does not need even one fan, but my FPV set-up runs hot so I want air moving through the electronics bay.



I painted my wheels with Krylon Fusion. Tan Khaki for the wheels and Spanish Moss for the beadlock rings. Both matte.





The lightbar is an RPM 4 bucket light bar, painted tan. I added the RC lights LED kit for that light bar, and power it off of the RX. I only added the lights so that when I'm driving FPV and go into a dark area, I can still see. And they work!







Speaking of the FPV system, it's a Spektrum video TX and a RunCam Micro Sparrow. It's powered off of the XH plug from my 2S LiPO.





I made a lexan cover for the battery tray. This is mostly to protect the XH plug which runs to the FPV system. Delicate wires and such.





I made a shift lever as I burned my shift servo with improper end point adjusting. This sticks up through the interior so I can shift it by hand.







And finally, I painted the cage with Krylon Fusion, Metallic Pewter. I actually don't really like it, and wish I'd left it black, but since this isn't a shelf queen, it'll probably end up that way soon enough.

I plan on only driving this on 2S and keeping scale speeds, scale sized jumps and hopefully ot too many crashes. I actually drive it mostly FPV which is a shame because the Twin Hammers is a great looking car. I miss seeing it drive, as I have the view from the driver's seat mostly.

Have fun! The Twin Hammers is still a rad, capable and scale looking little car.

[soze]

Awesome! I had a kit... sold it... regretted it, and just picked up a slider that needs some work. I'm hoping I can find the parts I need to get it up and running.

[Fallen]

There's a guy in San Diego selling two Twin Hammers, and lots of parts on OfferUp. He's been trying to sell them as a lot, but maybe send him a message and see what he'd part with separately.

[Brake Weight]

I’ve got one I have never used. I’d say 95% or better condition. Put upright front shocks on it.

[smog]

Cool!

Nice to see the Twin Hammers still getting some love. Would be curious to see some of the FPV video you get. The camera is mounted in the perfect spot, really.

I have been thinking I may give the old Vaterra rigs a rebuild this winter

[Fallen]

Thanks! Unfortunately I don't have the ability to record my FPV footage, as I don't have goggles but just the screen.

I'm planning not to spring for goggles or any other upgrades to this rig, as I've got other hobbies that take my money.

Oh, I also raised my rear axle truss using some plastic spacers from my leftover Tamiya parts trees. It's a poor man's version of the GCM truss that is long out of production.

[GA Dawg]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Put upright front shocks on it.

Are there even kits still out there for that?

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

Are there even kits still out there for that?

I think on Shapeways. The one I got was the stamped aluminum flat bar looking one. Plenty stout and lightweight.

Best pic I have on my phone.

[Fallen]

There's a few good Twin Hammers upgrades on Shapeways, including a bell crank steering set-up. Being able to install that is the only reason I'd switch the front suspension set-up.

But that's because I'm trying to avoid spending money on this thing. I'm content with the stock suspension set-up anyway. I know it's too stiff. But figure that just throws weight towards the rear, which is where most of the traction comes from anyway.

I've taken it on one 3 mile hike so far, and with the stock suspension, steering and drivetrain it did well enough for someone who isn't super committed to RC cars.

[soze]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I’ve got one I have never used. I’d say 95% or better condition. Put upright front shocks on it.

I'll use it.... LOL

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by GA Dawg

Are there even kits still out there for that?

A few. I fabbed mine up at work.



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[Fallen]

Looks like you fabbed up quite a few things. You making any more of those shock towers?

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by Fallen

Looks like you fabbed up quite a few things. You making any more of those shock towers?

I think I have a couple spares in a box, shoot me a PM


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[Fallen]

10-4. I'll send a message later tonight.

[Kemora]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

I think I have a couple spares in a box, shoot me a PM


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I'd be interested if you had any TH shock towers as well.

[Fallen]

Not too much to see here, just some more weird tinkering resulting in minor changes.

Most significantly is the front suspension change. I noticed that the front suspension link was the same length as a Tamiya M-05 shock so...





I replaced the one for the other. This isn't a dual-shock set up, it really only functions as a single shock, with dual springs. To clarify something the photos don't, the stock lay-down shock is still there, under the hood. Each end of the cantilever rocker now has a shock connected to it, instead of one shock and one rigid rod.

It's actually kind of nice. The kit Twin Hammers springs are super stiff. Even so, the only way to get decent ride height is to go max-preload, which then makes them way too stiff. So stiff that the only real suspension articulation comes from the rear, which still works because the rear has plenty.

Anyway, this dual spring set-up gets me the small bump compliance and plushness back in the front end, while still having a stiff spring for big hits. And the front suspension is super active now, and actually has some articulation:



I had to remove the front sway bar to fit these, but it wasn't doing much anyway. With the front suspension being so active now, it's fun to watch the front wheels go up and over bumps when driving FPV.

I also changed my light set-up, as the other photos alluded:



This puts two pods in the "RTR" nose lights position and two by the A-pillars. Driving this FPV mostly, and sometimes at night made me want lights, but in locations that don't hang up on overhead stuff (bushes) and won't take too much impact in a crash.

The nose lights are attached to some Tamiya L-brackets, then attached to the nifty little stock light mounts built into the cage. The A-pillar lights are a weird combination of other parts, too confusing to make decent sense of.

But they all work, and have been coated with enough E6000 to make them durable. The light controller (RC Lights) is taped to the underside of the modified hood panel.

If you've got a Twin Hammers collecting dust on your shelf, blow it off, charge up a battery and run it! It's capabilities will surprise you again.

Or disassemble it and sell the parts to me! I actually only really drive mine in low gear, so I don't see myself breaking many things. In FPV, first gear is about all the speed I can handle.

[smog]

Looks like you are having fun with it, really that’s all that matters at the end of the day. How well is the light set up working with the fpv camera?

I have a few of these rigs still and plan to keeep them, still run them every summer a few times. I had my over-powered TH out the other day before the snow and had a blast ripping lines out back here. I really like the compact size and performance of the platform. Still think a V2 with upgraded drivetrain would have been stellar should Vaterra have survived. An upgraded Yeti Jr attracts me for a similar reason, perfect size for ripping around in smaller spaces.

Love the thread

[Fallen]

Indeed, I've been enjoying these offroad kits of mine.

The lights work well enough that I can drive in total darkness, but not very fast. They really only throw usable light about 3-4 feet in front of the car. So they aren't as good as real desert lights, where I'm going to drive 60MPH through a dark desert. But they're good enough that I can explore new areas in the dark, and find my way around.

As far as the Yeti Jr. you're definitely right. It's more fun in small spaces, but still big enough to have fun in larger spaces. A baseball field is about as large as I can see it being fun. But you can still crawl around your living room with it. It's too big for the tabletop, but still good indoors.

My Twin Hammers definitely needs more room than my Yeti Jr. unless I'm driving FPV. FPV makes everything look way bigger, so smaller areas work well.

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by Fallen

Or disassemble it and sell the parts to me! I actually only really drive mine in low gear, so I don't see myself breaking many things. In FPV, first gear is about all the speed I can handle.

I didn’t really use the 2 speed either, so I made an adapter to install an Axial 3 gear trans and shed a little weight…





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[smog]

I have a classic 3 gear in one of mine as well. Cannot take credit for the 3d printed adapter, it was a Shapeways piece if I remember correctly.