Official venom factory support thread

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by Draggermirage

I installed a set of front and rear Venom lockers (P/N 8410) and ran into the same loose fitting issues as blackbart. On it's maiden voyage and within 10 feet of driving, both lockers just spun within the case. They spun bad and quickly enough that they don't even allow the truck to move on flat ground.

This is with a stock plastic differential housing, removed spiders and removed locker collar/hub.

Are we missing something as far as required parts to make for a proper fit? The HD differential case perhaps?

I'm finding *zero* information on these lockers so far.

If somebody tells me shim them, I'll use them as slingshot fodder instead. They simply shouldn't need it. If these were designed to be used in another design differential case, then so be it. They will be purchased. But this information should have been made public or at least included along with the parts that they concern.

Ideas? Comments? Am I the moron?

Marcus

Heres my thoughts on loose fitting lockers like the Venom units...Lincoln Lockers like mine are tight all the time...Fozzy lockers are a different approach to the same concept...LL's weld the gear set completely together while a Fozzy only has welds on the side gears so the spider gears can slop a bit taking some of the locking pressure off of the gear set...the problem I see is that the octagon design is just a bit too small allowing the locker to spin once it wears the plastic diff carrier enough to do so.

just my $0.02

[All-Or-Nothing]

CRAP...........my Creeper finally arrived today and i'm missing parts. I'm missing the screw bag VEN-8326 and screw bag VEN-8330. Should I go to the Venom website and try sending an E-Mail.

[Draggermirage]

Easiest and quickest way is to send an e-mail. I had response and resolution in a matter of 3-4 days over the HD locker and housing issue.

Marcus

[Draggermirage]

Pardon the second post in a matter of minutes.

I guess I should have posted up with the results of my issues with the Venom lockers.

I got ahold of Venom via email, explained the situation (posted earlier in this thread) and they told me that the HD lockers (P/N 8410) did indeed require the HD differential housings (P/N 8411).

They also sent me a set (two housings total) to get me set up with these things. Thanks again Venom.

The lockers assembled flawlessly with great fitment and minimal play. I haven't tested them as I gave the truck to a friend of mine who is just starting out in crawling. Review will follow as soon as we get some hard use under it's belt.

Marcus

[All-Or-Nothing]

Venom really sticks behind their product and responds so fast. I posted yesterday about my missing screws and sent an E-mail a few minutes later. The screws are already in the mail.

Woo Hoo.........these guys really are great. The only other RC company I have ever had such great customer service with was Redcat. Thanks Venom.

[hutsontr]

Has anyone came up with a way to put Over Drive and Under Drive in the diffs. yet?

[Jeephead]

I just built my Venom Creeper stock. For some reason the rear drive shaft is bottoming out not allowing the rear suspension to move. The manual does not seem to mention anything about cutting it shorter. Not sure what I am doing wrong.

[SledRig]

Originally Posted by Jeephead

I just built my Venom Creeper stock. For some reason the rear drive shaft is bottoming out not allowing the rear suspension to move. The manual does not seem to mention anything about cutting it shorter. Not sure what I am doing wrong.

Check the length of each half of the driveshaft with the 1:1 parts reference page in the manual. If either half, or both halves, is long, cut it to the correct length. Be sure that you don't leave any burrs that will create drag in the slip joint. Good luck.

[Jeephead]

Originally Posted by SledRig

Check the length of each half of the driveshaft with the 1:1 parts reference page in the manual. If either half, or both halves, is long, cut it to the correct length. Be sure that you don't leave any burrs that will create drag in the slip joint. Good luck.

Thanks, That did the trick!!
-

[SCrawler]

What do I need to ditch the dig on my safari? What should i do with the servo? Can I make a winch, use it for diff. lock?

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by SCrawler

What do I need to ditch the dig on my safari? What should i do with the servo? Can I make a winch, use it for diff. lock?

You could use the dig servo for a locker remote but the remote lockers arent very dependable...most people lock the rear axle and leave the front open diff on a scaler but really locking both diffs is the way to go...some JB Weld will do the trick pretty cheap...as for getting rid of the dig...youll need the stock transmission rear cover plate which you can buy at Venom-group.com and other places online...the rear driveshaft will also need to be replaced as the dig driveshaft is too short to fit...Traxxas is the big ticket for d-shafts...the part numbers are in my tips sticky on page 1 at the top of the Venom forums.

Id put the dig on ebay or spend the $20.00 for a green star and put it in the for sale section...you cannot sell it here in the forums...rules infraction.

[SCrawler]

Thanks RM, I have tons of traxxas stuff laying around. I'm already using a traxxas ESC.

[SCrawler]

Okay, servo question. I have a safari w/ a VR3T controller, and can't get it to return to center. I've tried adjusting the sub trim and other things, even another servo. What am I doing wrong?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by SCrawler

Okay, servo question. I have a safari w/ a VR3T controller, and can't get it to return to center. I've tried adjusting the sub trim and other things, even another servo. What am I doing wrong?

Did you center the servo before attaching the linkage? You should remove the servo arm/horn, set the steering trim to "0", set the front wheels to straight ahead & reattach the servo arm/horn. You may find that you need to shorten/lengthen the steering link so the servo is centered & the servo trims are "0".

If you did the above and your issue is that the servo does not go back to center, you likely either have binding in the steering linkage or the servo is starting to go.

[SCrawler]

Maybe it's the servo. It's off the vehicle. It gets warm, and twitches just a bit and goes all the way in one direction, and turns the other way when using the controller. I tried another servo, and it just hums and does nothing. Starting to feel disappointed, haven't had this thing three weeks, and already replaced the ESC, rebuilt the trans. after four screws backed out and stripped the gears, loose screws in the front axle put me down for a while too. Sorry for the rant, just a little agrivated at this point. Thanks for the response Charlie.

[masonis1]

im having problems with the cvd's

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Did you center the servo before attaching the linkage? You should remove the servo arm/horn, set the steering trim to "0", set the front wheels to straight ahead & reattach the servo arm/horn. You may find that you need to shorten/lengthen the steering link so the servo is centered & the servo trims are "0".

If you did the above and your issue is that the servo does not go back to center, you likely either have binding in the steering linkage or the servo is starting to go.

Or its not getting enough voltage....that may also be the issue but with the receiver....on the other hand the servo maybe having trouble finding center due to being bad. Process of elimination.

[artimus gordon]

After looking through this thread i am glad to see that Venom takes care of their customers. found that i have 3 left c-hubs and 1 right c-hub. sent an e-mail their way.(hopefully, not to good at this computer stuff)

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by artimus gordon

After looking through this thread i am glad to see that Venom takes care of their customers. found that i have 3 left c-hubs and 1 right c-hub. sent an e-mail their way.(hopefully, not to good at this computer stuff)

They will fix you up .

[mgputer]

Originally Posted by hutsontr

Has anyone came up with a way to put Over Drive and Under Drive in the diffs. yet?

I have thought about using a gear reduction case for a WK and see if I could get it to work.