gottorque's Underground Creeper

[rmdesignworks]

Ya know Alec,,,ya might try a piece of wire and hang the chassis in boiling RED dye in a pot on the stove,,but I think I would do it with the chassis all olted together so it doesnt warp in the hot dye....and I think the "orange is fine but ya could also just add black stripes or sections to it by taping it off then dipping it in black,,,HEY,,then you could get a logo of Tony the Tiger and Frosted Flakes.....lol

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Ya know Alec,,,ya might try a piece of wire and hang the chassis in boiling RED dye in a pot on the stove,,but I think I would do it with the chassis all olted together so it doesnt warp in the hot dye....and I think the "orange is fine but ya could also just add black stripes or sections to it by taping it off then dipping it in black,,,HEY,,then you could get a logo of Tony the Tiger and Frosted Flakes.....lol

This is the stuff i used http://www.ritdye.com/Liquids.95.105.5.5.lasso.
and on my second try it was around 150 degrees. However now that i think about it, there is a posibility that the ratio of water/dye was off and i had too much water

[Abavuso]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Ya know Alec,,,ya might try a piece of wire and hang the chassis in boiling RED dye in a pot on the stove,,but I think I would do it with the chassis all olted together so it doesnt warp in the hot dye....and I think the "orange is fine but ya could also just add black stripes or sections to it by taping it off then dipping it in black,,,HEY,,then you could get a logo of Tony the Tiger and Frosted Flakes.....lol

I think we were reading the same page... I just got done seeing if you could dye white delrin and that's how they said to do it.

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by Abavuso

I think we were reading the same page... I just got done seeing if you could dye white delrin and that's how they said to do it.

Were you and Thomas reading the one "captain crash" did
Dyeing Delrin

This one here was also pretty good
dyeing delrin. It mentioned how salt was part of the dyeing process, but from my cooking backround i know that salt only speeds up the water to boiling point
Further reading of the same thread

Originally Posted by romulus22

From what Ive read this is the key ingredient for good Dye jobs.

.
Now i know and I will try it

[ctracy]

good luck man. cant wait to see it. i used rit on some stuff years ago. was going for red a-arms and they turned out pink. it actually didnt look to bad but i didnt want to get teased so i got new ones and dyed them black.

[rmdesignworks]

I was dyeing Nylon wheels back in the day for my RC-10t...been boiling dye for years,,the salt only slows down the boiling of the water. I recommend you cover your stove top with aluminum foil before you do it,,if it boils and splatters or boils over youll possibly be screwed if it gets on the surface of the hot stove and cooks the color in.

Salt water boils at a higher temp,,add salt to raise the temperature at which the water will boil but it require a lot of salt to really see a definite result. Purified water will boil quicker than tap water due to less impurities.

Im glad SpeedyG posted up as I realized I mistyped my comment

[SpeedyG]

Adding salt lowers the boiling point and the freeze point, whereas adding pressure raises the boiling and freeze point... Just sum F.F.T. ...

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by SpeedyG

Adding salt lowers the boiling point and the freeze point, whereas adding pressure raises the boiling and freeze point... Just sum F.F.T. ...

I had to edit my last post bro,,when I saw your post I knew I mis-spoke in the previous post...search Google,,,,,salt water boiling point

[SpeedyG]

No problem dude... Just curious as to how raising/lowering the boiling point changes the Delrin's dyeability... If it absorbs dye more readily at higher temps, toss 'er in a Pressure Cooker!! (as long as it doesn't melt)

[HwnElf]

Nice panels and over-all build.

Wonder if you can just add a darker color dye to make the red dye a more deeper red.

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by ctracy

good luck man. cant wait to see it. i used rit on some stuff years ago. was going for red a-arms and they turned out pink. it actually didnt look to bad but i didnt want to get teased so i got new ones and dyed them black.

I give it one more shot and if that does not work then i will keep it orange and go with one of the suggested themes.

Originally Posted by SpeedyG

No problem dude... Just curious as to how raising/lowering the boiling point changes the Delrin's dyeability... If it absorbs dye more readily at higher temps, toss 'er in a Pressure Cooker!! (as long as it doesn't melt)

I wonder if that heat speeds up the acetal molecules, which then allows for the dye to be absorbed quicker cause there is space between the molecules because they are highly active at that state( didnt mean for it to turn into a chem lesson )

Originally Posted by HwnElf

Nice panels and over-all build.

Wonder if you can just add a darker color dye to make the red dye a more deeper red.

Thanks HwnElf. Im still pretty shure my problem was to much water, hence why it would not get dark skarlet red

[rmdesignworks]

Well my thoughts are this the heat causes te acetel to expand like anything else when heated up and it allows the pores of the plastic to accept more dye more deeply. My $0.02

Ya might try twice the recommended amount of dye per amount of water

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Well my thoughts are this the heat causes te acetel to expand like anything else when heated up and it allows the pores of the plastic to accept more dye more deeply. My $0.02

Ya might try twice the recommended amount of dye per amount of water

Didnt work. I used about 70% dye/30% water and some salt. The hotplate i used just isnt getting hot enough. No worries though, its staying Pylon Orange. Im not taking it apart agan now that i got my electronics in it. I had to be super creative with the placement of the esc and rx in there as i could not put either of them on the links as they would hit the tips of the top at compression. Its probably not an ideal place to put them but its gonna have to work. I also used 1/4 in. split plastic flex hose to house the servo and batt wires to protect them from the spur. Cleaned the wireing up as much as possible but its still not what you'd call pretty

Next up was where to put the batt. The only solution was making a plate to put it on the front axle. I had some 16ga sheet metal in my garage and had gotten some new Dremel bits too. The template was made out of card board and it actually looked pretty nice. It was easier said than done cutting it out on metal. I didnt make the back straight and i didn't drill correctly lined up holes(that's why there is two holes on the one side)
I painted it with rust oleom red paint





I also got the skins on today. the lower frame side ones arent on cause they were to short(must have shorted them on accident in photoshop)







Action pics next weekend hopefully

[gottorque]

got some phone pics of some test crawling this afternoon on the planters. quick run and nothing stellar, but its running
Total rtr weight....5lbs 7 oz. dont know if thats good or bad but it works.
Might go to 3S too
Figured i needed an updated spec list
Base: Venom Creeper
Chassis: Underground Crawlers Fastback
Shocks: Traxxas Hard Ano'd Big bores, 20wt, CKRC "silver" springs rear, stock Creeper blacks front
Tranny: Ax10
Motor: Integy 50t "twin turbo mod"
ESC: Castle creations Sidewinder
Servo:Savox SC-0252.
Tires: White Rovers with RMDW Paradox foams
Wheels: Axials (weighted front only)
Other stuff: Custom servo batt plate, Flm spools, RMDW rear upper link plate, Custom skins

[SpeedyG]

Lookin good GT!

[rmdesignworks]

Damn Alec,,,rig looks good,,I like it.

Question though,,,I noticed in the third pic of the rear end...that the rear upper links are mounted between the standoffs on the rear axle plate...did you mount htem that way for a reason or did I forget to tell you to mount the links to the outside of the standoffs?

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Damn Alec,,,rig looks good,,I like it.

Question though,,,I noticed in the third pic of the rear end...that the rear upper links are mounted between the standoffs on the rear axle plate...did you mount htem that way for a reason or did I forget to tell you to mount the links to the outside of the standoffs?

I know . i put them that way untill i can make some bent uppers because there is some clearance issues when there on the outer part of the stand offs. They hit the shocks and prevent full flex. still hardly any TT with them like that though.

[SpeedyG]

You can either make bent links, or install short spacers on the inside between the TVPs and the rear upper link ends... See if that works...

[rmdesignworks]

are you running the rear shocks on hte inside of the lower link mounts on the axle? if you move them to the outside it will give you more clearance.

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

are you running the rear shocks on hte inside of the lower link mounts on the axle? if you move them to the outside it will give you more clearance.

They are on the inside. however i am running my links in the link mount and im not sure if ill be able to put the links on the outer far side of the links...it might bind. I will take a look though