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Old 09-11-2010, 10:58 PM   #61
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no rush on the short nose replacement parts. i'm looking forward to getting them but i'm planning on having a blast with this thing on the rocks. sweet chassis! you came up with a winner in my opinion!

this is my first crawler and i'm loving it. i missed the time years ago when i could just tweak and tune an rc car. but i'm definitely addicted now. the wish list is growing: brushless motor, aluminum wheels, new tires, new servo and bec, 4/5 channel 3-position module (i have a tq2.4 4 channel radio and want the 3 position dig versus 2 position i'm running now; somebody in the electronics forum is putting together something)... all i need now is a second income!

oh yeah, and some lights. the days are getting pretty short!
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:30 PM   #62
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Sweet build dude... I like your alum fabwork... very clean... looks like a "fun" wiring project too ...

If you go brushless, might I suggest the dirt-cheap HobbyKing route... 35A Turnigy ESC and a 1000kV outrunner for $40 is a good place to start if you're strapped for cash and still wanna experiment... Tons of torque and good wheelspeed, also very efficient and easy on batteries... With the right timing and punch setup there's very little cogging and good low-speed control... I get about 35-40 minutes out of a 1300mah 3S... and that's with 4WS and a cooling fan for the ESC (which it doesn't really need)...

Just one more suggestion - flip your shocks upside-down... Won't make a big, or even a noticeable difference, but every little bit helps...
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:56 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by SpeedyG View Post
Sweet build dude... I like your alum fabwork... very clean... looks like a "fun" wiring project too ...

If you go brushless, might I suggest the dirt-cheap HobbyKing route... 35A Turnigy ESC and a 1000kV outrunner for $40 is a good place to start if you're strapped for cash and still wanna experiment... Tons of torque and good wheelspeed, also very efficient and easy on batteries... With the right timing and punch setup there's very little cogging and good low-speed control... I get about 35-40 minutes out of a 1300mah 3S... and that's with 4WS and a cooling fan for the ESC (which it doesn't really need)...

Just one more suggestion - flip your shocks upside-down... Won't make a big, or even a noticeable difference, but every little bit helps...
speedyg, you have a build thread on here, right? i think i saw your outrunner combo you mentioned. looked sweet. did you have any mounting issues with the outrunner as far as space? i was thinking about getting a novak 18.5 brushless given i already have the goat esc but that would be $80 compared to the $40 you mentioned for an esc and motor. i'm thinking it over.

i appreciate the compliment on the aluminum. a hacksaw, vice, a couple files, drill press and a whole lot of patience is all it takes! i do miss growing up and having access to my dad's machine shop but i can't afford that kind of equipment for a hobby.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:02 PM   #64
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oh yeah, wiring is fun. i have a servo stretcher to get the diff servo working (the tq2.4 doesn't have EPA on the 3-5 channels). i'll have another 4/5 channel model i'll be adding in and then a bec. things are getting tight in there. plus, adam (ab designs) has got me thinking about lighting. maybe a light bar on top and a pair mounted on the rear link plate to provide rear lighting. lots and lots of wires!!!

that brings me to a question that i might have to go to the electronics forum for but i thought i would add it here. i planning on getting the castle 10A bec. do i have to get the castle link to set it up? i know it is only $20 but that is money i could spend elsewhere. wouldn't be as bad if i had other castle equipment i could use it with but i don't. i'm going to end up spending $40 to get a $20 piece of equipment working.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:39 PM   #65
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Paypal Bro,,,my id is rmdesignworks@yahoo.com,,,$20.00 a set (takes care of all four tires)
and see my review on my build thread: Chappy4o's venom build thread

lol sry just had to do that,

awsome lookin build man, love the custom fab. can't wait to see more

Last edited by Chappy4o; 09-12-2010 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:11 PM   #66
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As far as I can tell, you'll need the Castle Link to program the output voltage only if you want to change the output voltage from 5.5V to something else (5.5V being the factory default)... Maybe you have an RC buddy that has one you could borrow...? The C.L. software is free to download ...http://www.castlecreations.com/downl...html?subId=696

As far as my build goes - I'm still waiting for a new set of tranny gears since mine stripped about three teeth off an 8341a gear a while ago... I hear it's not an uncommon problem with these trannies... The motor I have (Turnigy AerodriveXP 1000kV outrunner) only cost me $14 or so... Since you already have a brushless ESC...... Only thing is, you'll have to make an adapter plate for it to go from the motor's 19mm mount screw spacing to the Creeper's 24mm spread (seeing as how you're handy with the tools of the trade this should only take you a 1/2 hour like it took me )...

Also a note on lighting... If you decide to get anything from HobbyKing you might as well look up these...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...ip-White_(1mtr)

And for an added "cool" effect you can add one of these to switch 'em on and off... Ya know, since you like wiring stuff and all...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...trolled_Switch_

Hope all this helps... Keep up the good work!
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:31 PM   #67
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Jeff you can order the CC BEC 10amp from Holmes Hobbies preset to what ever voltage you want. I have a link of my own cuz if I change servos I may need it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:40 PM   #68
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Jeff you can order the CC BEC 10amp from Holmes Hobbies preset to what ever voltage you want. I have a link of my own cuz if I change servos I may need it.
i hadn't thought about needing the link if i end up changing servos and want to go from 6.0V to 7.2V. it's nice that Holmes Hobbies will set it up for you but i agree that the extra $20 to have future options isn't a bad deal.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:50 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by SpeedyG View Post
As far as I can tell, you'll need the Castle Link to program the output voltage only if you want to change the output voltage from 5.5V to something else (5.5V being the factory default)... Maybe you have an RC buddy that has one you could borrow...? The C.L. software is free to download ...http://www.castlecreations.com/downl...html?subId=696

As far as my build goes - I'm still waiting for a new set of tranny gears since mine stripped about three teeth off an 8341a gear a while ago... I hear it's not an uncommon problem with these trannies... The motor I have (Turnigy AerodriveXP 1000kV outrunner) only cost me $14 or so... Since you already have a brushless ESC...... Only thing is, you'll have to make an adapter plate for it to go from the motor's 19mm mount screw spacing to the Creeper's 24mm spread (seeing as how you're handy with the tools of the trade this should only take you a 1/2 hour like it took me )...

Also a note on lighting... If you decide to get anything from HobbyKing you might as well look up these...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...ip-White_(1mtr)

And for an added "cool" effect you can add one of these to switch 'em on and off... Ya know, since you like wiring stuff and all...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...trolled_Switch_

Hope all this helps... Keep up the good work!
that lighting looks pretty cool. i would have to see if i could make it work for my needs.

i need a little clarification. outrunners aren't sensored, right? i know for the inrunner (like the novak 18.5) you need it to be sensored to help on the low end control. $14 for a motor to try out brushless sounds pretty good to me.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:14 PM   #70
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I've never seen a sensored outrunner before, I think it's mostly because they're made for planes (spinning a prop slowly seems pointless i guess)... As long as your ESC has adjustable timing advance, it should work okay... I have my advance set at 3.25 degrees, and under the right throttle conditions it turns real smooth and crawls at half the speed of my 2S Rooster/55t in my AX without cogging...

The Turnigy ESCs are really quite impressive considering the amount of programming options they have for how inexpensive they are... I've got three now (18A, 35A and 60A), and all use the same programming card and have the same features... This is the one I'm using in the Creeper...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...SC_35A_CAR_ESC
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:47 PM   #71
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so, got about an hour on the rocks this afternoon (i'll post pics later) and the beast is doing aweson. the 4VP didn't alter balance or cg in negative way and has added a lot of shock/link flexibility. in particular my front end always felt pretty soft so getting the shocks a little more vertical has given it a more solid response without changing springs/oil.

one issue to pop up. when i was engaging my dig it was slipping on occassion, which has never happened in the past. i had to shift the servo a little to fit the new chassis and this changed the dig servo link alignment some. i'm hope the issue is the new linkage angle is prevent me from getting full engagement. i'll be playing around with it tonight. that does lead me to a question if it is the worst case: has anyone stripped out gears in their dig unit?
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:55 PM   #72
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I've not stripped out any dig gears though I did notice that the longer I used the servo that came with the dig the more I started having issues with it not fully engaging or slipping. I ran it for about 2 months in the prototype and 3 weeks on the production version and I started having a similar issue last week. I had to adjust the endpoints and that helps alot but I did notice that the servo doesn't seam to throw as well as it use to and the cheep plactic servo horn I'm running is bending and flexing alot so it might be just the case of upgrading the servo and the horn a little bit.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:08 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by jebster View Post
so, got about an hour on the rocks this afternoon (i'll post pics later) and the beast is doing aweson. the 4VP didn't alter balance or cg in negative way and has added a lot of shock/link flexibility. in particular my front end always felt pretty soft so getting the shocks a little more vertical has given it a more solid response without changing springs/oil.

one issue to pop up. when i was engaging my dig it was slipping on occassion, which has never happened in the past. i had to shift the servo a little to fit the new chassis and this changed the dig servo link alignment some. i'm hope the issue is the new linkage angle is prevent me from getting full engagement. i'll be playing around with it tonight. that does lead me to a question if it is the worst case: has anyone stripped out gears in their dig unit?
Hey Jeff,,,yeah bro anytime you change the location of something with a linkage its going to affect the throw,,even if the move is very slight. Moving something like a dig servo or steering servo 1mm one way or another can affect the throw positive or negative by any number of degrees. Remember,,drive angle on linkages are exponential. Re-calibrate your dig servo with your radio and all should be fine. I dont think you really need to worry about stripping the dig gears,,,thats the stout end of your trans.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:12 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by rmdesignworks View Post
Hey Jeff,,,yeah bro anytime you change the location of something with a linkage its going to affect the throw,,even if the move is very slight. Moving something like a dig servo or steering servo 1mm one way or another can affect the throw positive or negative by any number of degrees. Remember,,drive angle on linkages are exponential. Re-calibrate your dig servo with your radio and all should be fine. I dont think you really need to worry about stripping the dig gears,,,thats the stout end of your trans.
glad to hear it is most likely the engagement. i'm running a tq2.4 on my creeper which means the 3-5 channels don't have EPA. i've learned to tweak via servo horns and linkage lengths but it is a pain. maybe if i come into money i'll upgrade!
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:29 PM   #75
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ok. so it was the linkage and not the dig itself. moved the servo a little and everything is working good.

cut out some bodies panels and painted them. then i realized i grabbed a fluorencent green! oh well, i'll see what they look like once the paint dries. if i don't like it lexan is pretty cheap.

here are the pics from running around the yard earlier today...
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:41 PM   #76
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nice job, looks good... I like the clean wiring too
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:21 PM   #77
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Them bateries on the back look like they should be a jet pack ... that would be cool, a jet powered creeper. I ment to ask you, did you have any problems with the doors hanging up on the rocks with the spacers behind them?
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:28 AM   #78
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Them bateries on the back look like they should be a jet pack ... that would be cool, a jet powered creeper. I ment to ask you, did you have any problems with the doors hanging up on the rocks with the spacers behind them?
the doors did catch a couple times but not alot. i just back it up and take a little different line. the rock piles i'm climbing have some pretty narrow and pointed rocks so even if the doors were flat against the side of the chassis i would still catch on occassion. i like having my esc and receiver where they are at so i'm ok with the compromise.

maybe someday i'll look at making some skidplates that curve in towards the bottom of the chassis, similar to the original kydex plates i made (see first couple pics in this thread). but no rush, just having fun with the creeper as is.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:44 PM   #79
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so, fluorecent green it probably not a good color. oh well, i'll get some more lexan and try again. i'm considering getting some digital camo decals instead of painting the next set of panels. i saw freqeskins woodland digital camo skin for the xr10 and like the pattern.
by the way, i used the stock creeper battery tray posts to hold the rear of the top cover down. got the idea from adams 4VP thread. works good. didn't get out on the rocks today but posted a few pics from the workbench.
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:42 PM   #80
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rmdw, your pipe skid plate got me thinking. i ran by the hardware store and they didn't have the right sized pipe. when i got home i found an old length of stainless steel rod. i came up with skid rods that i hope prevent the rear axle from catching on sharp edges. it is also pretty light and easy to clip on. a couple pics below. i'm thinking about doing something on the front axle but i have less room to work with.
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